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COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT 




PORTO RICO 

PAST AND PRESENT 

AND 
SAN DOMINGO OF TO-DAY 



^0 




A STREET IN SANTURCE 



PORTO RICO 

PAST AND PRESENT 

AND 

SAN DOMINGO OF TO-DAY 



aFhyatt yerrill 

Author of "Cuba Past and Present," "An American 
Crusoe," etc. 



WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS 




NEW YORK 

DODD, MEAD AND COMPANY 

1914 



Copyright, 1914, by 
DODD, MEAD AND COMPANY 




NOV II 1314 

©C!.A388353 
'^1 



TABLE OF CONTENTS 

INTRODUCTION 



CHAPTER I 
PORTO RICO OF THE PAST 1 

Discovery of the island. Ponce de Leon. lidians. 
Pirates and privateers. The American invasion. 
The nevi^ organization. American governors. 

CHAPTER II 

PORTO RICO OF THE PRESENT 12 

Changes wrought by Americans. Language. 
Home life. Americans in Porto Rico. Modern 
improvements. Roads. Scenery. 

CHAPTER III 
SAN JUAN AND ITS ENVIRONS .... 26 
San Juan at simrise. A walk through the town. 
The old and new. Historical spots. Casa Blanca 
and the Palace. San Juan Gate. The Morro. 
San Christobal. The market. Modern buildings. 
The cathedral and De Leon's tomb. The jail. 

CHAPTER IV 
ACROSS THE ISLAND BY THE MILITARY ROAD 43 
The outskirts of San Juan. Santurce and Mira- 
mar. Rio Piedras. Into the interior. Caguas. 
Over the mountains. Cayey. Aibonito and the 
famous pass. Coamo and its springs. Down 
the mountains to Ponce. 

CHAPTER V 
PONCE AND THE WESTERN COAST ... 56 
Ponce. The city and its business. Docks and 
harbour. From Ponce to Arecibo. Adjuntas and 
Utuado. Arecibo. Aguadilla and the Columbus 
spring. From Aguadilla to Aguada. Rincon 

V 



vi CONTENTS 

and the ASasco River. On to Mayaguez. Maya- 
guez and its sights. Southward to San German. 
The City of the Hills. Sabana Grande, Yauco 
and the Guanica Central. Guayanilla and back 
to Ponce. 

CHAPTER VI 
THE EASTERN AND SOUTHERN COASTS . . 69 
From San Juan to Carolina. Loiza and the Rio 
Grande. Fajardo. The eastern coastal plain. 
Humacao. Along the coast to Guayama. Salinas, 
Santa Isabel, Yabucoa, and Aguirre. The salt 
plains and desert vegetation. 

CHAPTER VII 
HERE AND THERE IN THE INTERIOR ... 78 
From Caguas to Humacao. Juncos and its odd 
bridge. From Cayey to Guayama. Catano, 
Bayamon, and the fruit section. The Comerio 
road. Rivers and waterfalls. The Comerio dam. 
Barranquitas the lofty. Aibonito again. 

CHAPTER VIII 
TOWNS AND MUNICIPALITIES 87 

CHAPTER IX ' 
PEOPLE AND CUSTOMS 104 

CHAPTER X 

GEOGRAPHY, GEOLOGY, AND CLIMATE ... Ill 

Mountains and soil. Rivers, streams, and native 

vegetation. Rainfall. Temperature. Winds. 

Storms and hurricanes. 

CHAPTER XI 

AGRICULTURE, RESOURCES, AND OPPORTUNI- 
TIES 119 

Sugar cane. The irrigation system. The havoc 
wrought by our tariff laws. Tobacco. Coffee. 
Fruits. Cotton and fibre plants. Cocoanuts. 
Vegetables. Opportunities for agriculture. Poul- 
try and cattle. Fisheries. Mines. 



CONTENTS vii 

CHAPTER XII 

GOVERNMENT AND POLITICS 132 

The governing bodies. Parties. Anti-American- 
ism. The question of citizenship. 

CHAPTER XIII 

HEALTH AND SANITATION 139 

The triumph of scientific sanitation. The plague 
scare. Isolation of lepers. Numbers and causes of 
deaths. Deaths by contagious diseases. Cases 
of transmissible disease. Death by months and 
ages. The leper colony. Deaths in a year. 

CHAPTER XIV 

THE INSULAR POLICE SERVICE .... 146 
A peaceful people. Reform school. Felonies com- 
mitted. Arrests and convictions. 

CHAPTER XV 

MANUFACTURES, EXPORTS, FINANCE, ETC. . 154 
Manufactures. Domestic and foreign corpora- 
tions. Exports. Imports. Cost of bridges and 
roads. Entry of vessels. 

CHAPTER XVI 

TRANSPORTATION 163 

Auto trucks. Bull-carts. Mules. Horses. Rail- 
ways. Steamships. Express companies. Postal 
facilities. Cables and wireless. The American 
railway; time-table. Itinerary of the auto busses. 
Faces by auto busses. 

CHAPTER XVII 

HOTELS, BOARD, AND LIVING EXPENSES . . 171 

Hotels at San Juan and suburbs. Hotels of the 

interior. Restaurants and cafete. Need of good 

hotels. Servants. Water. List of hotels. 



viii CONTENTS 



CHAPTER XVIII 

SCHOOLS A¥D EDUCATION . . . .. . .179 

The common schools. Rural schools. Continua- 
tion schools. Child labour. Night trade schools. 
Agricultural instruction. Cooking. Sewing. 
School bands. Playgreunds and physical culture. 
Celebrations. High school courses. Receipts and 
expenses. 

CHAPTER XIX 

AUTOMOBILE LAWS AND REGULATIONS . . 213 



SAN DOMINGO OF TO-DAY 

PART II THE DOMINICAN REPUBLIC! 

CHAPTER I 

HISTORY OF THE REPUBLIC 223 

Discovery of Santo Domingo. Earliest settle- 
ments. Revolutions. 

CHAPTER II 

GEOGRAPHY, CLIMATE, AND RESOURCES . . 226 
Size and area. Population. Contrast between 
Haiti and the Dominican Republic. Character 
of surface. Rivers. Mountains. Forests. Min- 
erals. Lakes. 

CHAPTER III 

THE PEOPLE AND THEIR WAYS . . . .233 
Races. Proportion of colored and white races. 
Character of people. Customs. Money. Duties. 
Hotels and Boarding places. Food and bever- 
ages. Clubs. Horses. Living expenses. Factor- 
ies and industries. Recreations. Schools. 

CHAPTER IV 

FAUNA AND FLORA 244 

Plants. Cabinet and dye woods. Vegetable prod- 



CONTENTS ix 

nets. Fruits. Cacao. Tobacco. Coffee. Birds. 
Game. Fish. Insects. Reptiles. Mammals. 

CHAPTER V 
ROADS AND TRANSPORTATION .... 251 
Lack of good roads. Character of so-called roads. 
Fords and bridges. Trails. Railways. The Sa- 
mana-La Vega Railroad. The Central Dominican 
Railway. Telephones and telegraph lines. River 
and coastal boats. Steamship lines. 

CHAPTER VI 
HERE AND THERE IN THE REPUBLIC . . .259 
The island from the sea. Monte Christi and the 
north coast. Isabella, the first settlement in the 
New World. Puerta Plata, Santiago, and Moca. 
The Bay of Samana. The buccaneers' stronghold. 
Samana. Sanchez. The railway to La Vega. Scen- 
ery along the railroad. The Vega Real, or Royal 
Plain. La Vega and the Camu River. La Vega 
la Vieja. From La Vega to Moca. Roads of the 
interior. Undeveloped forests. Mineral wealth 
of the interior. Across Samana Bay to San Lo- 
renzo. Cafia Honda. Buried treasure. El Valle 
and the Swiss chocolate. Sanchez to Macoris. 
Sugar production. Royal palms. Santo Domingo 
City. Ruins and historical spots. House of Co- 
lumbus. The Columbus tree. The city wall. The 
plaza. 

CHAPTER Vn 

THE CATHEDRAL 282 

Within the cathedral. Remains of Columbus. 
History of the cathedral. The chapels, relics 
and paintings. San Nicolas, the oldest church. 
Church of San Miguel. Santa Barbara. San 
Anton. La Merced, Santa Clara and La Regina 
churches. The Church of Santo Domingo and the 
first college in America. 

CHAPTER VIII 
OTHER TOWNS AND PLACES OF INTEREST . 292 

Santiago de Los Caballeros. San Jos6 de las 
Latas. Santo Tomas and the first fort. Moca, 



CONTENTS 

a "white town." Santo Cerro, or the "Holy 
Hill." San Francisco de Mecoris. Cotui, or Las 
Minas. Bonao the golden. Boja and the cacique 
Enriquillo. Santa Cruz, the ancient. Salvaleon 
de Higuey and Ponce de Leon. La Komana. 
Villa Duarte, or Pajarito. Where Coumbus was 
imprisoned. The caves of Tres Ojos. Azua and 
the old conquerors. Maniel and its climate of 
perpetual spring. San Juan de la Maguana and 
its prehistoric ruins. Barahona and Neyba. The 
great interior lakes. The Princess Anacaona. 
The Mountain of Salt. Bani, the birthplace of 
Maximo Gomez. San Christobal and other towns. 



PART III HAITI, THE BLACK REPUBLIC 

CHAPTER IX 

HAITI AND ITS HISTORY 309 

Characteristics of Haiti. Its backwardness and 
\ retrogression. Haiti's history. Discovery of 

\ Haiti. The wreck of the Santa Maria. The 

\ fort of Navidad. Settlement of Haiti. Exter- 

\ mination of the natives. Importation of slaves. 

Pirates and freebooters. French colonists in 
Haiti. Cession of Haiti to France. Haitiens in 
the American Revolution. The Paris of America. 
The outbreak of the slaves. Toussaint I'Over- 
ture. Napoleon's perfidy. A war of extermina- 
tion. The massacre of the whites. Haitien in- 
dependence. The first Haitien king. 

1 

CHAPTER X 

HAITI'S TOWNS AND CITIES 322 

Port au Prince, the capital. Buildings, streets, 
etc. La Coupe and its residences. Miragoane and 
Petit Goave. The Island of Gonaives. The Tiburon 
peninsula and Jeremie, the birthplace of Dumas. 
Aux Cayes and Jacmel. St. Marc and the valley 
of the Artibonite River. Gonaives. The Mole 
San Nicolas. The island of Tortuga. Port de 
Paix and the Vale of Paradise. Cape Haitien. 
Sans Souci and the Black King's Castle. 



f 



CONTENTS xi 

CHAPTER XI 
THE INTERIOR OF HAITI AND ITS RESOURCES 337 
The character of the country. Rivers. Fertility. 
Forests. Mineral wealth. Fauna. Flora. 
Health and climate. Diseases. Lack of roads and 
transportation. Ruined estates. 

CHAPTER XII 
PEOPLE, CUSTOMS, GOVERNMENT, EDUCATION 345 
Population. Proportion of whites and colored 
races. Attempts at colonization. Character of 
the people. Language. The " Creole " or " Pa- 
tois." Educational institutions. The Govern- 
ment. Laws and legal procedure. Superstition. 
Obeah and Voodooism. Sacrifices. Distinguished 
Haitiens. 



ILLUSTRATIONS 

Street in Santurce Frontispiece "^ 

FACING 
PAGE 

Map of Porto Rico 1 ^ 

Statue of Ponce de Leon ^ ^ 

Statue of Columbus, San Juan 6 »/ 

Governor's Palace and Corner of the To\yn . . . 10 /'^ 

Morro from the Sea 10 «^ 

Royal Bank of Canada, San Juan IQ </ 

Cruz Street, San Juan 16 ^ 

Map of San Juan 20 v 

Lateen Boats, San Juan Harbor 24 \/[ 

Casa Blanca and San Juan Gate 24 \/]. 

Fort San Sebastian 28 /,. 

Haunted Sentry Box 28 v^. 

San Jose Church, San Juan 30 '•^'' 

Plaza Principal and Intendencia Building . . . 30 i^ 

Cathedral, San Juan 32 '^' 

Interior of Cathedral, San Juan 32 *" 

Plaza of the Lions, San Juan 36 »" , 

Beach at Borinquen Park 36 «- 

A " Pushing Business " 38 ^'. 

The Passing of the Old and New 38 '^ 

Road Near Cayey . . . . . . . . 40 *"' , - 

Road Scene Near Guayama 40 ^\:- 

View of Aibonito 44 *' 

Street in Aibonito 44 v% 

Street in Ponce 46 ^''^ 

Air Plants on Wires, Ponce 46 y; 

New Dock, Ponce 48 * 

Fire Department Building, Ponce 48 v.. 

Plaza and Cathedral, Ponce 50 »% 

Ponce Market 50^ 

Scene on Arecibo Road 52 

Arecibo Plaza 52*^ 

Columbus Spring, Aguadilla ^^ »/f 

San German Church ^^ y 

Caguas Plaza 58 

xiii 



xiv ILLUSTRATIONS 

PAcmo 

PAGE 

Street in Carolina 58 » 

Tobacco Under Shade, Cayey 62''^ 

Comerio Falls 62 v' 

Scene on the South Shore 68 1 

Salt Plains and Cacti, Southern Coast . . . . 685 

A Mountain River near Comerio 74 / 

Lowland River near Juncos 74 / 

Comerio Dam 80 - 

Old Spanish Bridge on Military Road . . . . 80 - 

Country Residence of a Peon 88 

City Residence of a Merchant . . . . . , 88 

On the San Juan-Ponce Railroad 150 

Salinas School, Salinas 182 

McKinley School, Ponce 182 

Map of the West Indies 220 

Plaza Colon and Statue of Columbus, San Domingo 

City 224% 

Entrance to a Dominican Garden 228 *' 

Interior of a Dominican House 238 * 

Charcoal Vendor on Riding Bull, Puerta Plata . . 246 i'' 

Calle Commercio, San Domingo City .... 262 "^ 

Docks at Macoris 274 .' 

Tomb of Columbus, San Domingo 282 • 

West Front of Cathedral, San Domingo City . . .286 ' 

Tomb of Columbus, San Domingo City .... 290 

Cathedral and Plaza, Santiago de los Caballeros . . 294 

A Street in Santiago de los Caballeros .... 298 > 

Congressional Buildings, San Domingo City . . . 302 ' 

Along the Water Front, Haiti 328 ^ 

In the " Black Republic " . . , 340^ 

" River Sprites," Haiti 348 



INTRODUCTION 

Although Porto Rico, or more properly Puerto 
Rico, has been an American colony for the past 
sixteen years, yet the American public as a whole 
has but a vague idea of the island's resources, 
condition, people, or climate. To many the island 
seems a far distant and foreign land, a mere speck 
in the vast expanse of ocean, and simply one of 
the numberless other specks which on maps are 
collectively labelled the " West Indies." It is 
indeed a surprise to find these little dots spread- 
ing out into vast mountain chains and league- 
broad valleys, with a shore line that stretches 
from horizon to horizon, and the visitor who for 
the first time views the West Indies is invariably 
impressed at the unexpected extent of the islands. 
It is hard to realise that Porto Rico is scarcely 
farther from New York than Des Moines, and that 
one may visit the island, tour its roads, see its nu- 
merous points of historical interest, and return to 
New York all within the space of a fortnight. 
While Porto Rico is the smallest of the so-called 

XV 



xvi INTRODUCTION 

Greater Antilles, yet it is by no means small, and 
as far as appearances go one might as well be on 
the mainland as on an island, when in the interior 
of Porto Rico. 

From the tourist's viewpoint Porto Rico is 
most interesting, and in no other West Indian 
island can one obtain such an insight into tropical 
life, industries, and vegetation with so little 
trouble and inconvenience. 

It is true that Porto Rico has many natural 
characteristics peculiar to itself and that it is 
wrong to judge it by other tropical lands or 
the other islands by the Porto Rico standard. It 
is the only one of the Greater Antilles which is 
practically denuded of forests and the only one 
which is densely inhabited. For these reasons the 
wild, luxuriant, and riotous vegetation and heavily 
wooded mountains of other islands are lacking, 
and it does not possess the majestic, primitive 
grandeur of San Domingo, portions of Cuba or 
Jamaica, nor of many of the smaller Antilles. On 
the other hand, its wonderful roads, its modem 
methods of transportation, its health and cleanli- 
ness, its freedom from loathsome, diseased beg- 
gars, its delightful climate, and last, and to many 



INTRODUCTION xvii 

the most important of all, the fact that over it 
waves our own flag, more than compensate for 
the sparsity of natural beauties and quaint cus- 
toms. 

Very little of general interest has been written 
about Porto Rico. Histories, government reports, 
steamship folders, and similar works are legion, 
but these are far from satisfactory or complete 
from the tourist's point of view or are too tech- 
nical, too full of data, or too evidently ad- 
vertising matter to be of great value or inter- 
est to the prospective visitor to our West Indian 
colony. 

The present book has been written with the aim 
of presenting all the important facts and figures 
in regard to Porto Rico without bias, prejudice, 
or exaggeration. In its preparation nothing has 
been taken for granted and nothing included in 
the work which is pure hearsay. The author has 
personally visited the island, has lived in its va- 
rious cities and villages, has toured the roads 
from end to end and from coast to coast, and has 
mingled and talked with all classes and conditions 
of people, both native and American, from the 
Governor to the lowliest peon. 



xviii INTRODUCTION 

In every case unquestionable facts have been 
adhered to, and no statement or information has 
been included which has not been personally in- 
vestigated. 

The political situation is a much involved and 
delicate question, and the author has refrained 
from discussing it or suggesting remedies for 
existing evils, although one cannot forbear some 
criticism of conditions which are palpably wrong 
and unjust. 

In the following pages Porto Rico is described 
as found by the author and as seen through his 
eyes, and no doubt others might see many things 
in a different light. What is admirable to one 
may not appear so to another, and what is at- 
tractive to one observer may appear uninterest- 
ing and unworthy to the next; but blase, un- 
natural, and prejudiced indeed must be the visitor 
to Porto Rico who cannot find an abundance of 
interest, pleasure, and admiration in viewing the 
myriad charms, the magnificent scenery, and the 
interesting life of Porto Rico. 

In the preparation of this book the author has 
been greatly aided and encouraged by many 
Porto Rican and American residents of Porto 



INTRODUCTION xix 

Rico, as well as by numerous government officials 
and others. 

To His Excellency the Hon. Arthur Yaeger, 
to Judge E. B. Wilcox, Col. B. W. Bates, Mr. 
Sanchez Morales, and to the officers and officials 
of the New York and Porto Rico S. S. Co., and 
many others the author wishes to express his 
deep gratitude for innumerable favours, invaluable 
help, and universal courtesy, without which the 
preparation of this volume would have been a 
most difficult task. 

The island of Santo Domingo is so closely asso- 
ciated with the early history of the West Indies 
and the Spanish Main, and is so intimately con- 
nected with the conquest and settlement of Porto 
Rico, that it seems quite fitting to include some- 
thing about the island in a book on our little 
West Indian colony. 

It was from Santo Domingo that Ponce de Leon 
sailed across the narrow Mona passage and estab- 
lished the settlement which later became San Juan. 
From Santo Domingo came many a bold and ad- 
venturous knight to settle in the new land of 
promise, — Puerto Rico, — ^and all through those 



XX INTRODUCTION 

early years of Spanish dominion in the Antilles 
the two islands had much in common, and the 
great men of the times were familiar figures in 
both " Puerto Rico " and Hispaniola. 

While Porto Rico was primarily and principally 
an agricultural colony, San Domingo was famed 
for its wealth of precious stones and metals, and 
when the output of the mines decreased many of 
the Spaniards from the latter island moved bag 
and baggage to Porto Rico, across the strait, and 
settled down to wrest greater if slower fortunes 
from Porto Rican soils than they had won in 
San Domingo's golden sands. 

Even aside from its connection with Porto Rico, 
the island of San Domingo is worthy of being 
known and visited by Americans, for on this island 
there is more that savours of early American his- 
tory than on any other spot in the Western Hemi- 
sphere. Here was the first settlement of Euro- 
peans in the New World ; here was shed the first 
blood of Europeans in conflict with the Indians ; 
here the Spaniards found their first gold in Amer- 
ica, and here repose the mortal remains of Chris- 
topher Columbus. 

Santo Domingo is a wonderful land, a land of 



INTRODUCTION xxi 

romance, history, and untold resources, a land 
of vast opportunity, of immense mineral wealth, 
of inexhaustible fertility and sublime scenery. It 
was baptised in blood, civilised by the ruthless 
slaughter of countless thousands of human beings, 
and for centuries has been torn with massacres, 
revolutions, and warfare. Its past has been one 
of violence, greed, and despotism. Let us hope 
that its future may be one of progress, peace, and 
prosperity. 



PART I 

PORTO RICO 
PAST AND PRESENT 






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CHAPTER I 

PORTO EICO OF THE PAST 

It was on his second voyage to the new world 
that Columbus, while sailing cautiously among 
the uncharted reefs and unknown isles of the 
Antilles, sighted a large and luxuriant island, 
which the natives called " Borinquen." 

Coasting around the southern shores of this new 
land, the discoverer put into a large, calm bay on 
the northwestern coast where a beautiful spring 
gushed from the hills and flowed in a good-sized 
stream to the bay. In commemoration of this 
event the admiral christened the place " Aguadil- 
la," and named the new island San Juan Bautista. 
To-day the visitor to this beautiful spot may see 
the self-same spring forming a fountain at the 
western end of the pretty town and falling in 
cascades into a stone basin, from which the water 
flows through the streets to the shore. Here 
also a monumental cross of native marble marks 
the first landing place of Columbus on Porto 
Rican soil. 



£ PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

Continuing on his voyage to Santo Domingo, 
Columbus left Porto Rico astern and never again 
revisited it. On board his ship, however, was a 
romantic and adventurous " Conquistador " called 
Juan Ponce de Leon, and filled with admiration 
at the wonderful luxuriance and fertility of the 
new island, he set sail from Santo Domingo in 
1508 and landed at the bay of Aguada. From 
this spot he travelled eastward and discovered 
an almost land-locked bay, which he named 
" Puerto Rico."' He was received hospitably by 
the natives and especially by Agueynaba, the 
cacique, and greatly pleased at the richness of 
the island, he returned to Santo Domingo and re- 
lated the story of his explorations to Governor 
Ovando. The latter thereupon furnished addi- 
tional supplies and men, and in 1509 De Leon 
again landed at Puerto Rico Bay, and at a spot 
known as Caparra built a settlement, which was 
later abandoned in favour of the more desirable 
island of San Juan, the present capital. From 
here Ponce de Leon set forth on his famous voy- 
age in search of the Fountain of Youth, which 
resulted in the discovery of Florida. Here in 
San Juan he built a large and luxurious house or 



PORTO RICO OF THE PAST S 

castle, known as the " Casa Blanca," or White 
House, which, embowered in palms and surrounded 
by gardens, still looks forth across the blue sea 
towards distant Florida, and stands aloof, — 
dignified and proud, — above the bustle and noise 
of the town, like some old Spanish grandee among 
a crowd of gamins. In 1512 the searcher for 
the fabulous fountain once more sailed forth from 
San Juan Harbour only to return silent in death, 
the victim of an Indian arrow, from which he 
succumbed in Havana. 

From the very first Ponce de Leon realised the 
natural advantages which San Juan possessed 
for fortifications, and every energy and resource 
was devoted to erecting a complicated and ex- 
tensive series of walls, forts, castles, and moats 
about the city. At the entrance to the harbour, 
upon a precipitous bluiF, was built the massive 
Morro, which was not completed until 1584? and 
which still stands, grim and forbidding, and is 
the first sight to greet the visitor arriving in 
Porto Rico from the North. Scarred with the 
wounds of a hundred conflicts, moss-grown, hoary 
with age, and frowning upon the narrow harbour 
entrance, its lofty lighthouse casts its brilliant 



4 PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

beams far across the waves, a welcome message of 
peace and salvation instead of death and destruc- 
tion, which in former days belched forth from 
its antiquated cannon. Within this mighty fort- 
ress were chapels, living-rooms, water-tanks, ware- 
houses, quarters, bakeries, barracks, and dungeons, 
— a veritable little city in itself. From the Morro, 
walls extended about the city and surrounded the 
entire town with a line of bastions, moats, forti- 
fied gates, crenelated battlements, and quaint 
sentry boxes, which have endured the stress of 
storm and warfare for four centuries and have 
withstood the shot and shell of buccaneers, pirates, 
and the navies of the world, and have even held 
their own against the rain of steel poured upon 
them by our battleships in 1898. 

For a long time after the Spaniards settled on 
the island, the Indians were peaceful and hospita- 
ble, and while often oppressed, were restrained 
from acts of violence by their belief in the immor- 
tality of the Europeans. Finally the truth of this 
theory was tested by an experiment on an un- 
fortunate man named Salcedo, whom the natives 
held beneath the waters of a river until he appar- 
ently drowned. To make sure that Hfe was ex- 



PORTO RICO OF THE PAST 5 

tinct the Indians kept a careful watch over the 
body for several days, until the warmth of the 
climate afforded ample proof of the mortal char- 
acter of the Spaniards. Convinced that their 
oppressors were mere men, a general rebellion 
and massacre was planned, and the town of 
Aguada was burned, sacked, and the inhabitants 
murdered. One of the inhabitants escaped the 
slaughter and, reaching Caparra, related his story 
to Ponce de Leon, who, with a strong body of 
troops, at once commenced an active warfare on 
the savages, so many of whom were slain or seized 
for slaves that there was no further danger of 
an uprising. 

The Indians were, however, the least of Porto 
Rico's troubles, and from 1516 until 1798 the 
island was constantly attacked and harassed by 
invaders, and the people were kept busy defend- 
ing their island from capture and devastation. 

In 1535 and 1543 French privateers sacked and 
burned several of the smaller towns, and in 1565 
Sir John Hawkins swept down upon the island, 
to be followed in 1572 by Sir Francis Drake, but 
the powerful forts and stubborn defence of the 
inhabitants were too much for the buccaneers, who 



6 PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

sullenly sailed away, to return in 1595, when they 
learned that a galleon with vast treasure was in 
San Juan Harbour. Better had it been for the 
dreaded freebooters to have left Porto Rico alone, 
for Hawkins died when off the eastern end of the 
island, and Drake, beaten and nearly annihilated 
by the heavy fire of the forts, sailed off towards 
South America, and died ere he reached Porto 
Bello. It was a heart-breaking defeat for the 
doughty Englishman, for the Spaniards removed 
over four million dollars from the ships in the har- 
bour and secreted it ashore, so that Drake, who 
had helped destroy the Armada a few years before, 
was obliged to leave unmolested more gold than he 
had taken from the famous fleet. Once more in 
1597 the English returned to Porto Rico, this 
time with a fleet of 20 ships, under Lord 
Cumberland. Landing at Santurce, the British 
defeated the Spaniards at San Antonio bridge 
and marched into San Juan. The English were 
on the verge of victory, and Morro had capitu- 
lated, when disease broke out among the invaders 
and they were compelled to abandon the island. 

In 1625 Morro was again under fire, for a fleet 
of Dutch war vessels invaded the city and trained 



PORTO RICO OF THE PAST 7 

their guns on the fortress. The bombardment 
was ineffectual however, and after burning a large 
portion of the town, the Dutch sailed away, leav- 
ing one of their ships behind. From this time 
until 1702 French, Dutch, and English buccaneers, 
privateers and men-of-war were a constant menace 
to the Porto Ricans, but one and all were de- 
feated and driven off. Then for nearly one 
hundred years the island was left in peace until 
in 1797, when Sir Ralph Abercromby landed a 
large force at Santurce, threw up trenches, and 
placed batteries on Miramar Hill and prepared 
for a long and tedious siege. After two weeks 
of cannonading and ferocious hand-to-hand fight- 
ing, the British were obliged to abandon the at- 
tack, and retreated with a loss of nearly two hun- 
dred and fifty men and many prisoners, guns, am- 
munition, and supplies. 

One hundred years later the grim fighting ships 
of Admiral Sampson trained their guns upon the 
citadel that rose impregnable above the town, and 
while the steel-clad shells and smokeless powder of 
the modern weapons tore gaping holes here and 
there in the ancient masonry, yet the vast weight 
of metal hurled at the town did comparatively 



8 PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

little damage, and the residents were left in peace, 
until the American army, marching overland from 
the south, were halted in their victorious progress 
by the signing of the peace protocol, and in 
August, 1898, the Stars and Stripes were hoisted 
above the ancient forts and buildings, and a new 
territory was added to the United States. 

A military government was at once established 
by General Brooke, who was succeeded in Decem- 
ber, 1898, by General Henry. A postal system 
was organised, the Government lottery abolished, 
freedom of speech and the press restored, the use 
of stamped paper and certificates of residence 
discontinued, a police force, consisting of Porto 
Ricans under command of American officials, was 
organised, and strict sanitary measures adopted. 
Free public schools were opened, provision made 
for writ of habeas corpus and jury trials, the 
courts were reorganised, and imprisonment for 
political off^ences, chains, solitary confinement, and 
other similar methods of punishment were abol- 
ished. Pending the restoration of normal condi- 
tions, the foreclosure of" mortgages was tempo- 
rarily suspended. The Spanish currency in use 
was retired and replaced by American money. 



PORTO RICO OF THE PAST 9 

Mayors and other local officials were elected, and 
in 1899 a census taken, which showed a population 
of 958,243. 

Unsettled conditions immediately resulting from 
the war seriously affected local industries and 
commerce, and a material decrease in exports, 
with many hardships, followed as a natural 
sequence. The abnormal conditions were aug- 
mented by the results of a severe hurricane on 
August 8, 1899, which destroyed many coffee 
plantations and cattle. Many of the inhabitants 
of the interior suffered from lack of food. Aid 
speedily came from the United States, and the 
free distribution of food and building material 
in great quantities afforded temporary relief. 

On April 12, 1900, the United States Congress 
passed what is known as the Organic Act, estab- 
lishing a civil government in Porto Rico and pro- 
viding temporary revenue for its maintenance until 
such time as elections could be held and a local 
system of revenue established. In accordance 
with this act the military government, under 
General George W. Davis, who had succeeded 
General Henry, came to an end, and the civil 
gover^ment was established, with Hon. Charles 



10 PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

H. Allen as Governor, May 1, 1900. On June 
28, the Executive Council, the Upper House of 
the Legislature, consisting of six Americans, who 
were also heads of Government departments, and 
five residents of Porto Rico, all appointed by 
the President of the United States, met and or- 
ganised. A general election was held on Novem- 
ber 6 of the same year, at which 35 Porto Ricans 
were chosen as members of the House of Delegates, 
the other branch of the Legislature. These elec- 
tive delegates met with the Executive Council in 
the first session of the Legislative Assembly on 
December 3, 1900, and continued in session until 
January 31, 1901, having passed 36 laws neces- 
sary for the complete establishment of civil gov- 
ernment, and providing for a system of taxation 
and internal revenue. 

On June 22, 1901, the Governor called an ex- 
traordinary session of the Legislature, to meet 
on July 4f; and on that date a joint resolution 
was passed advising the President of the United 
States that a system of local taxation had been 
provided and placed in operation, and requesting 
that a presidential proclamation be issued an- 
nouncing the existence of civil government in 




'm-m 



I 




governor's palace and corner of town 
morro from the sea 



PORTO RICO OF THE PAST 11 

Porto Rico. This fact was duly proclaimed by 
President McKinley on July 25, 1901, the third 
anniversary of the first landing of American 
troops. In accordance with the provisions of 
the Organic Act, free trade with the United 
States followed the publication of this proclama- 
tion, and American merchandise entered Porto 
Rico and products of the island were admitted 
into the United States without payment of cus- 
toms duties. 

Governor Allen's administration was followed 
on September 15, 1901, by that of Governor Wil- 
liam H. Hunt, who held the office until July 4, 
1904, when he was succeeded by Hon. Beekman 
Winthrop. Governor Winthrop was followed by 
Governor Regis H. Post, who assumed the office 
on April 18, 1907. On November 6, 1909, Gov- 
ernor George R. Colton was inaugurated, and in 
November, 1913, the present Governor, Mr. Ar- 
thur Yaeger, took over the office of chief executive 
of the island. 



CHAPTER II 

PORTO RICO OF THE PRESENT 

When the Americans took possession of the island, 
Porto Rico was, like all true Spanish- American 
countries, quaint, quiet, picturesque, and with an 
indefinable charm or " atmosphere " impossible to 
picture or describe. For 400 years the people 
had lived in more or less the same manner, their 
homes were of Spanish or Moorish style, their 
lives were simple, their wants few, business wor- 
ries, financial reverses or competition troubled 
them not. No one gave a thought of to-morrow, 
and bull-fights, cock-fights, dances, and the lot- 
tery were the amusements of the populace. 
Withal sanitation was conspicuous by its absence, 
dirt and disease were considered necessary evils, 
candles or oil lamps furnished sufficient illumina- 
tion, bulls, oxen, and horses provided means of 
transportation, and the island seemed a bit of old 
Spain set mid tropical surroundings. When one 
stepped ashore in Porto Rico of the past, one 

stepped into a foreign land and into scenes of four 
12 



PORTO RICO OF THE PRESENT 13 

centuries ago. To-day all is greatly changed. 
With the American occupation sewers were laid, 
sanitary plumbing was made compulsory for all 
householders, electric lights replaced the candle 
and lamp, a telephone system was installed 
throughout the island, automobiles, motor cycles, 
and auto trucks hummed over the splendid roads, 
disease and dirt were stamped out, trolley lines 
and railways brought far distant towns within 
easy reach, schools were established, and to-day 
Porto Rico is a busy, bustling, up-to-date, and 
modern country, — far ahead of most American 
communities of equal size. In the transformation 
much of the charm, the picturesque, and the old- 
world atmosphere have been lost, and while we 
may admire and appreciate the conveniences and 
modern improvements, yet we cannot but regret 
the fact that in obtaining these we have been com- 
pelled to sacrifice such a large part of the true 
Spanish- American life and atmosphere. 

Although in many ways Porto Rico has been 
" Americanised," yet it is as un-American as ever 
in other ways. Although English is, — according 
to theory, — the " official language," yet those who 
speak it are few and far between. English may 



14 PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

be " official," but the officials do not speak it, 
save in a few instances or where they happen to be 
of American birth or education. Even the police- 
men in San Juan cannot speak the " official lan- 
guage," and a visit to the offices of the Interior 
Department or to many other Federal and In- 
sular offices will demonstrate that the officiousness 
of the English tongue has scarcely gone beyond 
the theoretical stage. Many of the shops and 
stores have salesmen who speak our language 
after a fashion, and here and there the children 
and young people can speak and understand it, 
but as a rule the folk who speak anything but 
their beloved Spanish are the negroes from St. 
Thomas, St. Kitts, and other British West Indian 
islands, or are Americans, Germans, or English. 
Now and then one meets with a surprise, — pos- 
sibly some light-haired, blue-eyed clerk or official 
may look so Anglo-Saxon that you essay a ques- 
tion in English, only to be met with a blank look, 
an expressive shrug, and a polite " No entiendo 
Ingles." Perchance the very next person you 
address will be a swarthy native selling fruits or 
other commodities. Feeling convinced that the 
" official " language would be useless, you ask the 



PORTO RICO OF THE PRESENT 15 

price of his goods in your best Castilian and are 
dumbfounded when he replies, "Ten cents, three 
for a quarter." 

English is supposed to be compulsory in the 
schools, but comparatively few scholars ever learn 
their English, save in a parrot-like manner. They 
may learn English so that they can carry on an 
ordinary conversation, and yet they will not and 
do not use the language if it can be avoided. If 
we are bound to Americanise the Porto Ricans, 
why stop halfway? Why not carry on all official 
business in English and make all documents in 
that language, or else admit that the so-called 
"official language" exists as such merely in 
theory.? Why should we expect the Porto Ricans 
to use our tongue when we send out governors, 
chiefs of departments, officials, and others who 
cannot speak or read Spanish, and who neverthe- 
less carry on all official business in Spanish and 
employ native interpreters? Moreover, although 
English is the " official tongue," we do not require 
native officials or employees to speak it. Why 
not make a knowledge of English a necessary fac- 
tor in the appointment of all officials or pubhc 
employees, whether they come under Civil Service 



16 PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

or not? On every side we tacitly admit that it is 
simpler for Americans to learn Spanish than for 
the Porto Ricans to acquire English. No doubt 
much of this will be overcome in due time, and 
even the poorly-paid police will speak English; 
but in the meantime it seems highly absurd to 
have a traffic officer hold up an American autoist 
and try to explain the local laws and regulations 
when neither of the parties to the controversy 
can understand what the other is saying. At 
times the confusion of the two languages is really 
amusing. For example, many documents are 
printed in English and the blanks filled out in 
Spanish, the result being a sort of hybrid af- 
fair, portions of which are meaningless to the 
holder of the papers unless he reads both lan- 
guages. 

The visitor to Porto Rico can get along with- 
out a knowledge of Spanish, especially in the 
larger towns, but unless one speaks Castilian or 
employs an interpreter, he will find himself woe- 
fully handicapped, and will lose much of interest 
and value on the island. Spanish in Porto Rico is 
fully as important as in Havana, Central or 
South America, or Mexico; in fact, of the two 




k 




PORTO RICO OF THE PRESENT 17 

places it is certain that in Cuba English is more 
generally spoken than in Porto Rico. 

In their home life the Puerto Riquenos adhere 
to their old-time customs ; they parade about the 
plazas in the cool evening, lean from jutting 
balconies and watch the passing throngs, gossip, 
and laugh in soft Creole Spanish, receive visitors 
in their " salas " open to the street, and are as 
vivacious, light-hearted, frivolous, and care-free 
as ever. In costume, business, and other matters, 
the Porto Ricans have adopted American ideas 
and customs with wonderful facility; the large 
stores are up-to-date, stocked with American and 
European goods, and there is no longer the " last 
price," as in Cuba and other Spanish-American 
lands. Cash registers, pneumatic money-carriers, 
elevators, bargain sales, and auto deliveries are 
now a necessary part of Porto Rican business, a 
large proportion of which is in the hands of Span- 
iards. Graceful mantillas have given way to out- 
landish " latest Parisian styles " in hats, high- 
powered automobiles have replaced the old-time 
coaches, and moving pictures, baseball games, and 
horse races now attract the crowds that formerly 
flocked to bull-ring and cock-pit. Within the 



18 PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

Porto Ricans' homes one glimpses shady, flower- 
filled patios, tinkling fountains, charcoal braziers, 
cool corridors, and huge open, unglazed windows. 
Within the American homes are all the surround- 
ings of Northern life, absolutely unsuited to 
tropical comfort. The walls extend unbroken 
from ceiling to floor, allowing no free circulation 
of air ; the windows are small, there are no charm- 
ing patios, gas ranges are used for cooking, and 
canned goods, American dishes, and imported food 
is served, although the markets are replete with 
delicious fresh native vegetables and fruits. 

Of course there are exceptions. Many Porto 
Ricans have become so Americanised as to dwell 
in concrete houses, with all the ugly, ornate, in- 
congruous, ginger-bread architecture of Northern 
homes, while many Americans are sensible enough 
to adapt themselves to the customs and necessi- 
ties of the tropics, and live in simple, low, cool 
houses, embowered in palms and flowers, and ap- 
preciate the value of native vegetables and other 
products. 

American though Porto Rico may be, yet it is 
merely on the surface; at heart the Porto Rican 
is a Porto Rican first, last, and all the time, and 



PORTO RICO OF THE PRESENT 19 

to his credit be it said, for our colonial policies 
are far from perfection, and we have much to 
learn. 

One cannot blame the Porto Ricans if they 
chafe more or less under American rule ; we have 
taken much from their lives, and while we have 
given a great deal in some ways, yet we leave 
much to be desired in others. Our sanitation, 
road building, schools, and other institutions are 
splendid and beyond all praise, but why should 
we insist on closing every shop and store on 
Sunday, thus depriving innumerable poor country 
people of their only means of revenue and recrea- 
tion, when we allow moving picture shows, amuse- 
ment resorts, and similar things to remain wide 
open for the amusement of the better classes? 
And yet this was actually attempted and carried 
out. Recently, however, the law has been more 
lenient, and now a great many shops, stores, and 
other business places are open on Sundays. It 
is indeed a difficult matter for the Anglo-Saxon 
to see things from the point of view of the Latin 
mind, and it is equally difficult for the Spanish- 
American to understand the Anglo-Saxon. We 
are new hands at the colonisation game, and our 



20 PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

first eiforts have been with a race radically dis- 
tinct in every way from ourselves. Possibly, 
when we have had as much experience as England 
and other European powers, we will succeed bet- 
ter, at least let us hope so ; but we should not be 
misled into thinking that any Latin will ever 
become Anglo-Saxon in ideas, thoughts, manners, 
or ideals. We might just as well expect to graft 
apples on a mango tree. 

One's first impressions of a new country are 
apt to be erroneous, and the visitor arriving in 
Porto Rico is liable to think it the hottest and 
most expensive spot on earth. As a matter of 
fact, Porto Rico is not hot for the tropics, save 
in the large coastal towns in the middle of the 
day, and while many objects are high in price, 
compared to the other West Indian islands, yet 
in the shops and stores one may obtain everything 
that can be found in New York and at prices as 
low, or even lower, th^n in the United States. 

Living expenses are high, it must be admitted, 
but salaries are also high, and in proportion to 
wages the necessities of life are no higher in price 
than in other West Indian towns. Too much 
dependence should not be placed upon the stories 




MAP OF THE CITY OF SAN JUAN 



PORTO RICO OF THE PRESENT 21 

related by Americans living on the island. Many 
of these people are embittered, prejudiced, or 
dissatisfied, and see nothing good in Porto Rico, 
while others are so flagrantly American that they 
give one the impression of being constantly 
dressed in the American flag. To these every- 
thing and everybody not of their race, religion, 
or speech is unworthy of consideration and be- 
neath their notice. Many other American resi- 
dents are woefully ignorant of local conditions, 
food supplies, customs, and other island matters, 
and are content to pay outrageous prices for 
imported goods or the odds and ends of native 
produce peddled from door to door. Although 
the natural resources of the island have been 
greatly neglected, and there are vast opportuni- 
ties for raising vegetables, chickens, eggs, cattle, 
and dairy products, yet any or all of these ar- 
ticles may be purchased at fairly reasonable 
prices at all times and there is no excuse for any 
one being deprived of fresh vegetables of all kinds, 
fruits, both tropical and temperate, fresh eggs, 
fowls, turkeys, beef, fish, cream, milk, and butter. 
Those who visit distant lands in search of nov- 
elty, new customs, quaint manners, and pic- 



22 PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

turesque ways will find little of interest in Porto 
Rico. Those who would visit the tropics, — were 
it not for fear of discomfort, disease, or incon- 
veniences, — will find in Porto Rico all the com- 
forts and luxuries of the North, with the colour, 
warmth, and surroundings of the tropics, while 
those who love the tropics, regardless of surround- 
ings, conditions, or accompaniments, will find the 
island most delightful, and last, but by no means 
least, the automobilist searching for new lands to 
tour will find in this lovely island undreamed of 
possibilities. 

It is doubtful if anywhere in the world one 
can auto over better roads and among more de- 
lightful surroundings than in Porto Rico, and 
while machines are legion on the island and many 
Americans annually tour over its roads, yet com- 
paratively few people realise what a perfect para- 
dise for autoists lies almost at our doors. 

There are various ways of " seeing " Porto 
Rico. One is to take passage on one of the 
Porto Rico Line ships, stop at the various ports 
and return on the same ship. Another method is 
to leave the ship at San Juan, ride across the 
island by auto and rejoin the ship at Ponce or 



PORTO RICO OF THE PRESENT 23 

some other port, and the last and best way of 
all is to take an automobile with you on the ship, 
tour the island from end to end, and when satiated 
with enjoyment, return, auto and all, to the 
North. 

There is something incongruous in speeding 
over perfect roads amid tropical surroundings 
and between buildings hoary with the weight of 
four centuries, and huge motor trucks seem out 
of place as they lumber across old Spanish bridges 
or pass quaint native bull-carts, toiling slowly 
along the mountain roads. It is veritably a meet- 
ing of the old and new, for the roads were planned 
and built by the Spaniards centuries ago, and 
pass through towns and villages whose houses, 
plazas, and cathedrals have remained unaltered 
since the days of Columbus. 

Certainly the old Spanish engineers were won- 
derful road builders, for the Americans have 
scarce done more than dress and repair the roads, 
and as we travel through the island and gradually 
climb the mountains and look back upon the white 
ribbon of road, winding in sinuous curves and 
loops, skirting the edges of precipices, and cross- 
ing deep ravines on picturesque bridges, we are 



M PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

filled with wonder and admiration for the skill 
and labour that produced such marvels of engi- 
neering. 

Although Porto Rico is practically 100 miles 
in length and 40 miles in width, yet nearly every 
acre is denuded of native forest growth. For 
this reason the scenery is far less attractive and 
is far more tiresome than that of many of the 
smaller and more densely wooded islands. On the 
other hand, the very absence of forests allows 
the visitor to obtain better view of the mountains, 
valleys, and plains, and at every turn one is 
greeted with new and beautiful vistas. Now a 
deep barranca, or ravine, yawns beneath the road, 
and we look down into its dim depths to groves of 
bananas, coffee, or fruit trees. Again we gaze 
out across range after range of steep, green hills 
or towering mountains, their summits draped in 
clouds and their sides cultivated and verdant with 
growing crops to their very crests. Here and 
there we pass through long avenues of flaming 
poinciana trees or amid great clumps of towering, 
feathery bamboo. Above us the hills sweep up- 
ward for hundreds of feet, their sides clothed in 
tropical shrubs, palms, and bushes, with great 




LATEEX BOATS, SAN JUAX HARBOR 
CASA BLANC A AND SAN JUAN GATE 



PORTO RICO OF THE PRESENT 25 

tree-ferns rearing their crowned heads above the 
other verdure. From time to time we pass quaint 
wayside fondas or country stores, simple wattled 
huts, sheds roofed with ancient Spanish tiles, and 
bare-footed natives and naked children lolling 
about the wayside. On every road the tourist 
will find new scenes, new sights, and new interests. 
The roads cover practically every portion of the 
island, and if you would really " see " Porto 
Rico, by all means ride over it in an auto, whether 
your own or a hired one matters little as far as 
sightseeing is concerned. 

From a scenic point of view, Porto Rico is 
wonderful; its roads are perfect, its people quiet 
and peaceful, its climate superb, its health un- 
equalled, but socially, politically, and economic- 
ally it is an anomaly, as one observer aptly re- 
marked, " It is neither fish, flesh, fowl, nor good 
red herring." 



CHAPTER III 

SAN JUAN AND ITS ENVIRONS 

Fortunate is the visitor to Porto Rico who first 
sees our beautiful West Indian territory at day- 
break, when land and sea are glorified with the 
gorgeous colouring of a tropic sunrise and the air 
is fresh and cool with the morning breeze. 

Above the ultra-marine sea, that breaks in a 
line of silver foam upon the beach and rocks, rise 
the grim and frowning ancient walls of Morro. 
Beyond the gleaming white walls of Casa Blanca, 
half-hidden amid feathery palms and gorgeous 
flowers, and in the distance, dim, hazy, and purple 
against the sky the cloud-topped mountains and 
lofty hills of the interior. As the vessel slowly 
approaches and passes between the moss-grown 
walls of Morro and the crouching island-fort of 
Canuelo, the full beauty of the city of San Juan 
is revealed to view. From the busy water-front, 
with its large wharves and many vessels, rises the 
quaint old Spanish town, its many-tinted blue, 
pink, yellow, and green buildings, red roofs and 

2B 



n \ 



SAN JUAN AND ITS ENVIRONS n 

narrow streets rising steeply from the sea to the 
summit of the hill, where the enormous fortress 
of San Christobel stands, massive and irresistible 
above the town it has guarded faithfully for 
nearly four centuries. 

Here and there among the lower edifices rise 
three, four, or five-story buildings of recent con- 
struction, and speeding automobiles, clanging 
trolley cars, and gasoline launches give a touch 
of modernity to what otherwise might be a part 
of old Spain itself. Across the narrow harbour 
vivid green fields and graceful palms extend back- 
ward to the distant hills, their greenery broken 
by red-roofed houses, soft-tinted buildings, and 
quaint fishing villages. Upon the blue waters of 
the bay foreign-looking, lateen-sailed boats drift 
slowly in the light morning air, gasoline launches 
puff busily about, a miniature ferry boat churns 
its way across to Catafio, and a few moments 
later the big liner draws in to her dock, and you 
look upon a waiting crowd of swarthy. Southern 
faces and listen to a babel of soft Spanish as the 
gang-plank is lowered, and you set foot upon 
Porto Rican soil at last. 

Passing from the wharf, we come upon a broad, 



28 PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

well-paved square, known as the " Marina " ; be- 
fore us a large four-story building of modern 
construction, — the telephone building, — to the left 
the magnificent new Federal building, and on our 
right the railway station, with its waiting coaches, 
snorting locomotives, and modern equipment. At 
the head of the Marina we enter a typical Porto 
Rican street (Calle San Justo), and passing be- 
tween the ancient church of Santa Anna, built in 
the sixteenth century, and the American bank, 
built in the twentieth, we enter a busy, bustling 
thoroughfare. The street is smooth and well 
paved, scrupulously clean, and on every hand are 
shops and stores, packed with every article known 
to modern civilisation. Here and there we catch 
a glimpse of ancient arched corridors, of cool in- 
terior patios, and of dark, mysterious passages, 
while on every hand are the projecting balconies, 
the iron-barred windows, and the massive doors 
and shutters of old Spain. Continuing up this 
busy street, we reach a cross street, through 
which a trolley track runs, and turning to the left 
through this thoroughfare, known as " Calle San 
Francisco," we soon reach the Plaza Principal. 
The Plaza, with its broad stone or cement surface, 




FORT SAN SEEASTIAN 
HAUNTED SENTRY BOX 



SAN JUAN AND ITS ENVIRONS 29 

its beautiful trees, and the imposing buildings on 
aU sides, is the central part of the town, and as 
in every Spanish city, it is the favourite meeting 
place of the people, the promenade, and the scene 
of the bi-weekly band concerts. The central 
building on the north at once attracts attention, 
for from its lofty twin towers a chime of bells 
booms out the hour, as it has done since 1819. 
This is the City Hall, or " Alcaldia," built in 
1799, and within its walls are quartered the City 
Council, the Mayor, and various municipal offi- 
cials. Above the sidewalk is a broad arcade, sup- 
ported by huge columns or pillars, and on either 
side are imposing stores, as well as the offices 
of the Porto Rico Association, the Bureau of In- 
formation, the City Club, etc. To the west is the 
handsome " Intendencia Building," wherein the 
various branches of the Insular Government are 
housed, while the post-office is on the northwest 
comer. Along the southern edge of the Plaza 
are numerous stores, mainly devoted to photo- 
graphs, books, curios, needlework, and similar 
native industries and souvenirs, and along the 
curb stands a waiting row of dozens of automo- 
biles ready to carry the visitor to any portion 



30 PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

of the island at a moment's notice. Here too are 
the offices of the Porto Rican Transportation 
Company, whose automobiles are seen on every 
hand, and in the up-to-date American store of 
Gillies and Woodward one may find English 
spoken and understood, may purchase the latest 
American magazines and papers, may buy the 
best of Porto Rican cigars and cigarettes, and 
may slake one's thirst with ice-cream sodas, sun- 
daes, or delicious ice-cream made from fresh milk 
from a splendid dafry. Every visitor to Porto 
Rico should visit this south side of the Plaza Prin- 
cipal, for here are American stores, where pic- 
tures, books, curios, and photographs may be 
purchased, films may be developed, prints made, 
and every courtesy shown the stranger by the 
obliging proprietors. 

But if we are to see San Juan before the heat 
of the day, we cannot loiter long at the Plaza. 
It is hot, glaring, and comparatively deserted in 
the daytime ; but visit it on a Tuesday or Thurs- 
day evening and we will find it crowded with all 
classes of people, who pass and repass in a 
continual procession or sit about in hun- 





SAX JOSE CHURCH, SAX JUAX 
PLAZA PRIXCIPAL AXD IXTEXDEXCIA BUILDING, SAX" JUAN 



SAN JUAN AND ITS ENVIRONS 31 

dreds of rented rocking chairs and listen to 
the really fine music of the military or municipal 
bands. 

There are so many interesting sights and so 
much of historical association to be seen in San 
Juan that it is really difficult to say just what 
should be visited first. Close to the plaza is 
the ancient Cathedral, which stands just behind 
the post-office, and from whose towers the bells 
have called forth day in and day out since 1549, 
and within whose shady interior rest the ashes 
of Ponce de Leon. Here also is a strange waxen 
image of a Roman soldier, known as the " Petri- 
fied Man," and about whose origin and history 
much romance and tradition has been woven. As 
a matter of fact the effigy contains the bones and 
a vial of blood from the catacombs of Rome, 
and which are venerated as those of Saint Pio. 
Almost opposite the Cathedral and on the further 
side of a small park or plaza is the Episcopal 
Church of St. John. Beyond this modern edifice 
the road leads us upward and to the right to a 
flight of stone steps, above which stands the 
Casa Blanca, or White House, popularly known 
as the residence of Ponce de Leon. It is a ques- 



32 PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

tion if the great discoverer of Florida ever occu- 
pied this palace, for some authorities contend 
that it was not erected until 1525, several years 
after the death of De Leon, and that the Ponce 
de Leon who occupied the Casa Blanca was one 
Juan Proche, who fell heir to all the rights and 
privileges of De Leon and assumed the latter's 
name. 

Regardless of the truth or fallacy of traditions, 
Casa Blanca is well worth visiting, and is a splen- 
did type of old Spanish architecture. It extends 
for some distance along the water-front, rising 
above the ancient city wall, which is thirty feet 
or more in thickness, and from its flower-filled 
grounds and broad galleries one may obtain a 
splendid view of the harbour and the pretty town. 
Looking southward from Casa Blanca, we see 
near at hand the steep descent leading to old San 
Juan gate, the only gateway still remaining in- 
tact in the city wall. The gate opens upon the 
former landing place, where all the shipping of 
older times could load and unload beneath the 
protecting guns of Santa Elena. Although the 
gate bears the date of 1749, yet the huge wooden 
doors are well preserved and swing readily upon 



SAN JUAN AND ITS ENVIRONS 33 

their pivot hinges, while the portals are studded 
with enormous brass-headed nails. 

Beyond this gate rises the imposing residence 
of the Governor, known as the Palace of Santa 
Catalina, or the " Fortaleza," from the fact that 
the older part of the building was originally con- 
structed for a fort. It was the first fort erected 
in San Juan and was commenced in 1533. The 
palace is impressive, massive, and ancient, with a 
patio, beautiful gardens, and great vaults that 
formerly served as temporary hiding-places for 
treasure en route from the new world to Spain. 

Turning to the north, we cannot fail to be at- 
tracted by the grandeur and immensity of the 
soft-toned, moss-grown walls of old Morro and 
the great wall that crowns the heights and 
stretches along above the city to Fort San Chris- 
tobal, an enormous pile of solid masonry and a 
magnificent example of old Spanish fortification 
work. In former times the defensive wall about 
the city extended from San Christobal across San 
Juan island to the harbour, with a large gate, 
known as " Puerta Tierra," or Land Gate, from 
which the suburb of Puerta de Tierra has received 
its name. To-day only remnants of this old wall 



34 PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

remain, but it may be traced here and there 
among the modern buildings, and some very inter- 
esting examples of embrasured walls, sentry boxes, 
and even the old moat may be seen near San An- 
tonio bridge and San Geronimo. San Christobal 
itself is really a combination of three forts, known 
as Christobal, Escambron, and Princesa. The 
massiveness of its exterior is heightened when the 
internal construction is inspected. Its dungeons, 
passages, and moats are truly wonderful, and the 
various portions are connected by arched pas- 
sages or tunnels, some of which in former times led 
to the various forts about the city, and even to 
the country outside the walls of the town. Un- 
fortunately much of the old work has been sacri- 
ficed to make way for modern progress, and many 
of the old passages have been allowed to cave in 
or have been filled up. Here in San Juan we have 
a relic of early European civilisation in America, 
which is almost unrivalled, and yet our Govern- 
ment has taken practically no steps to preserve 
it. The massive and wonderful San Juan gate is 
defaced with posters and advertisements of soaps 
and patent medicines, miserable huts are built 
against and about the ancient walls, and moats 



SAN JUAN AND ITS ENVIRONS 35 

and sentry boxes and other relics are crumbling 
away and overgrown with weeds. 

There is scarcely a visitor to San Juan who 
does not see numerous photographs of the so- 
called " Haunted Sentry Box," and the original 
may be seen on the seaward wall of San Christo- 
bal. According to tradition the Evil One was 
accustomed to visit this spot and carry away the 
guard on duty, leaving no hint of his presence, 
save an odour of brimstone. In time the soldiers 
became so superstitiously afraid of this post that 
the military authorities were compelled to wall 
up the box. Regardless of the true origin of 
this tale relating to the spot, the sentry box 
itself certainly looks spectral and forsaken 
enough to invite supernatural visits and occur- 
rences. 

Not far distant from San Christobal is the new 
market, a large open square filled with roofed 
booths or stalls, on which all the native fruits, 
vegetables, and other products of the island are 
displayed. One should visit the market on Sat- 
urday to see it at its best, and if possible the 
inspection should be made in the early morning. 
At suchi a time the market will be filled with a 



36 PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

light-hearted, chattering, gesticulating crowd, 
while every imaginable tropical and many tem- 
perate vegetables and fruits will be heaped upon 
the booths. Lettuce, radishes, cabbage, potatoes, 
egg-plants, chards, corn, sweet potatoes, and other 
familiar garden truck will be seen side by side with 
taro, plantains, yams, bread-fruit, palm-cabbage, 
and other odd vegetables, while bananas of a score 
of varieties, oranges, grape-fruit, pines, limes, 
custard-apples, nisperos, piaw;-paws, melons, 
mangoes, and innumerable other new fruits tempt 
the visitor to buy and taste. 

Around the open market is an arcade of stores 
or stalls, wherein are displayed meat, fish, wearing 
apparel, etc., which are sold to the country people. 
The market is clean, orderly, and well conducted, 
and is a vast improvement over the ordinary open- 
air markets found in most West Indian towns. 
To the northwest of the market and close to the 
sea is the " Pantheon," or cemetery. Here we 
may see the wall filled with niches, each large 
enough to contain a coffin, which the family of the 
deceased may rent for a period of five years or 
more. As long as the rent is paid the corpse is 
allowed to occupy its resting-place in peace, but if 





PLAZA OF THE LIONS, SAN JUAN 
BEACH AT BORINQITEN PARK 



SAN JUAN A^D ITS ENVIRONS 3T 

in arrears it is unceremoniously thrown into a pit 
or trench with scores of others. In the old Span- 
ish days the skeletons of such unfortunates could 
be seen in a great confused mass of bones, and 
prowling dogs often carried the bones hither and 
thither, while the stench at night was terrible. 
Nowadays the bones are covered with earth and 
disinfectants, and are hidden from public view. 
Between the cemetery and Casa Blanca stands the 
enormous Infantry Barracks, known as the 
"Ballaja Barracks," which were built in 1860, 
and are so large that 2,000 troops may easily be 
housed within the buildings. The barracks are 
built in the form of a rectangle around an open 
central patio, which is large enough for a parade 
and drilling ground, the whole being one of the 
largest barrack buildings owned by the American 
Government. Turning eastward from the barracks 
and passing through Beneficia Street, we reach 
the Plaza of San 'Jose and the ancient church of 
the same name. In the centre of this Plaza stands 
a magnificent statue of Ponce de Leon, made from 
cannon which were captured from the British in- 
vaders in the attack of 1797. Within the church 
the remains of Ponce de Leon reposed from 1559 



38 PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

until 1863. Adjoining this church is the Su- 
preme Court, which occupies a building formerly 
used as a Franciscan monastery, and in the spa- 
cious patio may still be seen the convent wells, 
from which the old padres drew their water. Pro- 
ceeding still further eastward along one of the 
many well-paved, clean streets, such as Sol St. 
Luna Street, San Sebastian Street, or Allen 
Street, we reach the eastern end of the town and 
before us see San Christobal frowning down upon 
the city. To the right and beneath the shadow 
of the mighty fort, is a broad, open field or 
parade ground, with the splendid building of the 
Y. M. C. A. standing imposingly at its edge. The 
Casino of Porto Rico is near at hand, and the 
Municipal Theatre is on the further side of the 
pretty square known as the Plaza Colon, in the 
centre of which stands a beautiful statue of Co- 
lumbus. Most of the buildings in this section are 
modern and strictly up-to-date, and contrast 
strikingly with the old forts and walls so near at 
hand. Retracing our steps westward through 
Tetuan Street, we will be able to view at close 
quarters many fine new buildings, and the six- 
story " skyscrapers " of San Juan. Prominent; 








■■ 




^Hpi»' '^W-'-- .' ^H^^^^^^l 


^^^^^^^^^^^ 








vBJ <^l 




i^P" 


i 




^**^ - -.^ 



A •'PUSHING business" 
THE PASSING OF THE OLD AND NEW 



SAN JUAN AND ITS ENVIRONS 39 

among these are the American Bank, the Royal 
Bank of Canada, the Railway Station, the Tele- 
phone Building, and many commodious, modern 
stores. A sharp contrast between the old and 
the new is afforded at every turn in San Juan. 
Narrow, winding, steep lanes, scarce ten feet in 
width, descend sharply between smooth asphalt 
streets, while trolley cars clang through the nar- 
row streets between buildings that seem trans- 
planted from some old Moorish city. If we turn 
to the right at the corner by the Telephone Build- 
ing and proceed up Tanca Street, we will reach the 
charming little Plaza of San Francisco, where the 
road ends, and on the further side of the Plaza 
is continued in a flight of stone steps to Luna 
Street. At the head of this flight of stairs is an 
excellent, modern restaurant, and close at hand 
is the old Church of San Francisco, the Police 
Headquarters, and the Central Grammar School, 
as well as many fine, modern stores. From here it 
is but a few steps up Luna Street to the Plaza 
Principal and the Cathedral, and on our way 
we should not fail to turn aside and pass through 
the broad arcade of Gonzalez Padin. This 
arched-roof street passes through the building 



40 PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

from Luna to Francisco Street, and is in reality a 
hall in the Padin stores, which occupy the block 
and are equal to many of our large department 
stores. The large plate-glass windows of the 
stores in this section are filled with an attractive 
display of the latest Parisian, Spanish, and 
American wearing apparel, musical instruments, 
furniture, kitchen utensils, curios, and every ar- 
ticle known to American stores. Before leaving 
San Juan for a trip elsewhere we should not fail 
to make a short visit to the jail, or prison, in 
the southwestern part of the town, below the 
Governor's Palace. This large, airy building 
rests against the lofty, ancient, city walls, and is 
surrounded by beautiful flower gardens and well- 
tended grounds, shaded by flowering shrubs, trees, 
and palms. The guards and prison-keeper are 
courteous and obliging, and will gladly show the 
visitor over the prison. Here the prisoners enjoy 
far greater liberty and better treatment than in 
our Northern prisons or jails. The whole build- 
ing is spotlessly clean and neat, the hospital is 
large, airy, and thoroughly well equipped, and 
nowhere is there an appearance or the depressing 
eff^ect of being behind barred windows and bolted 



SAN JUAN AND ITS ENVIRONS 41 

-doors or of small solitary cells or unnecessary 
rigour. The prisoners are kept busy, the trusties 
being sent out to work on the roads, and the 
others being employed in the tailor and shoe 
shops, kitchens, bakery, etc. The women prison- 
ers do the laundry work ; a large exercise ground 
is provided, and the boys and young men and 
women are given instruction in a well-equipped 
school. The prisoners live and sleep in large, airy 
barracks and are allowed to converse freely until 
nine p.m. Each convict is provided with a fold- 
ing bench, blankets, and bedding, which is kept 
neatly folded and rolled during the day. Many 
of the prisoners employ their time in making 
drawn-work, embroidery, baskets, and other sou- 
venirs, which they sell to visitors for their own 
profit, while those at work outside are paid a smaU 
sum for their labour. They are well fed, are 
happy, contented, and healthy, and stand at at- 
tention at the entrance of a guard seemingly quite 
as proud of their discipline and condition as the 
officials themselves. In fact, many of the inmates 
are far better off in jail than in their own homes, 
and they show no disposition to escape, even when 
allowed a great deal of liberty on outside work. 



4a PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

It is not unusual to find a party of convicts re- 
turning from work and one of them carrying the 
gun for their guard, while now and then a pris- 
oner is dispatched on a message for a considerable 
distance without guards of any sort. 



CHAPTER IV 

ACEOSS THE ISLAND BY THE MILITARY BOAD 

Although San Juan is the capital and largest 
city and is the first port of call for steamers 
from the North, yet it is by no means the most 
attractive or interesting place to see. There is 
only one road leading from San Juan to the in- 
terior, but a ferry boat runs across the bay to 
Catano, and from there a road extends along the 
northern shore of the island. The road par ex- 
cellence, however, the main artery to the in'- 
terior, and the highway of greatest interest is 
the " Carretera," or Military Road, that runs 
from San Juan to Ponce across the centre of 
the island. Leaving San Juan, the Y. M. C. A. 
building is passed and a broad, smooth, asphalt 
pavement leads westward from the city. Close to 
the town the road branches, the upper paved road 
being devoted to carts and teams, while the lowe^ 
asphalted road is reserved for the use of automo- 
biles. A short distance up this road we pass a 
beautiful, semi-circular court and fountain, known 

43 



S' 



44 PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

as the " Plaza of the Lions," and a short distance 
beyond enter the suburb of Puerta de Tierra, — 
the slums of San Juan, inhabited mainly by the 
poorer classes, and wherein are situated the San 
Antonio docks, the American and Porto Rican 
Tobacco Company's factory, and other industries. 
Here too are the lofty towers of the wireless sta- 
tion, from which messages are flashed to New 
York and other far distant parts of the world. 
Along this broad, smooth highway passes a never- 
ending, motly, interesting procession, reminding 
one of the highroad described by Kipling in 
" Kim." Great lumbering bull-carts, galloping 
ponies, pannier-laden horses and donkeys, army 
wagons drawn by six sturdy mules and driven by 
grim flannel-shirted soldiers, puffing auto trucks, 
swift, honking touring cars, whirring motor cycles, 
and luxurious Victorias pass and repass, while 
afoot trudge natives of every colour, class, and 
trade. Black, buxom negresses, with bundles on 
their heads, swarthy, lean-limbed Porto Ricans, 
barefooted but proud of their Spanish lineage, 
vendors of fruit, bread, vegetables, eggs, milk, and 
what not; some carrying trays upon their heads 
or shoulders, others pushing barrows, others with 



n 




VIEW OF AIBONITO 
STREET IN AIBONITO 



ACROSS THE ISLAND 45 

baskets on their arms, and still others with quaint 
wheeled stores, from which are sold drinks, ice- 
cream, or sweets. Now and then a squad of sunr 
browned, seasoned troops swing down the road, 
their kahki suits, army hats, and gleaming arms 
very business-like and savouring of war, or per- 
chance one meets a file of white-clothed convicts 
armed with pick and shovels on the their way to 
or from their work. White, black, brown, yellow, 
or olive; men, women, boys, and girls, — a thou- 
sand types, a score of races, and a myriad of 
native trades and occupations may be seen on this 
one great artery that leads from the modernised 
capital into the great, old-fashioned interior; 
from the busy, rich, and prosperous centre to 
the lonely, poverty-stricken mountain villages ; 
from the palpitating heat of paved streets and 
close-packed buildings to the clear, free air and 
cooling breezes of verdure-clad hills and damp, 
luxuriant valleys of the mountains. 

Crossing the San Antonio bridge, which con- 
nects the island of San Juan with Santurce, we 
enter the charming residential district of Mira- 
mar with the Union Club, the Miramar Theatre, 
the ornate American hotels, and many fine resi- 



46 PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

dences, embowered amid cocoa palms, flowers, and 
tropical vegetation. To the left a blue-watered 
bay is separated from the sea beyond by a long 
point of land with an ancient fort, — San Ge- 
ronimo, — at its outer extremity, where, in the 
ruined fortifications, a neat, modern dwelling has 
been erected. Across this calm lagoon the Her- 
manos bridge leads by another route close to the 
shore to the Candado district, where the most ex- 
clusive of American and Porto Rican officials and 
business men have their homes. 

Through Santurce and Miramar the highway 
leads on to Rio Piedras, passing many fine dwell- 
ings, the Girls' and the Boys' Charity Schools, 
several fine public schools, numerous stores, a 
number of churches, and many beautiful private 
grounds. A short distance beyond Santurce the 
Borinquen Park road is reached, and a visit to 
this favourite resort is well worth while. Borin- 
quen Park is the recreation ground for San Juan 
and its neighbourhood, and consists of an exten- 
sive cocoanut grove situated on a lovely white 
sand bathing beach, with broad cement prome- 
nades, shady benches, a moving picture theatre, 
restaurant, ice-cream parlours, merry-go-rounds, 



ACROSS THE ISLAND 47 

and all the other appurtenances of a miniature 
Coney Island, and always cooled by the sweeping 
trade winds blowing from the wide, blue sea, and 
rustling the feathery palm fronds in a soothing 
lullaby. 

Resuming our trip along the Military Road, we 
soon reach Rio Piedras, a neat little town of some 
nineteen thousand inhabitants, about seven miles 
from San Juan. The American railway passes 
through the town, and the trolley line from San 
Juan terminates here. The place was founded in 
17.14, and is devoted mainly to raising sugar 
cane, cattle, and pineapples. At Rio Piedras is the 
reservoir which furnishes the water for San Juan, 
and several lime and brick factories are in the 
neighbourhood. Here also is the Insular Normal 
School, the University of Porto Rico, an attrac- 
tive old church on the little plaza, a Capuchin 
monastery, and a very beautiful park, which was 
formerly the summer palace of the Spanish Gov- 
ernor. 

At Rio Piedras a second road branches off* to 
Carolina, Fajardo, and the southeast and even- 
tually winds its way along the southern coast 
to Ponce ; but the road is not of the best, it is of 



48 PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

little interest, and the main Military Road is far 
more advisable. Leaving Rio Piedras behind, the 
road lies across a level plain, while south and 
east and in plain view the foothills rise in broken 
spurs and conical eminences, gradually growing 
higher and rougher to the towering mountains of 
the Luquilla range, with their cloud-topped sum- 
mits purple and hazy in the distance. Presently 
the road commences the ascent of the hills by 
winding curves and easy grades, the roadway al- 
ways smooth, well kept, and in many places with 
an asphalt surface, and mounting higher and 
higher so gradually that one scarce realises that 
there is any ascent at all. Here and there we 
pass through clumps of feathery bamboo, palms 
shade the highway, glimpses are had of deep val- 
leys or green hillsides, and the visitor who has 
not before seen the island is charmed by the view 
and exclaims at the lovely vistas. Each moment 
new and more beautiful scenery is brought into 
view, until finally an ancient Spanish bridge is 
crossed, the tropical vegetation becomes richer 
and more varied, and mountains and hills rise on 
every hand. Presently, crossing the last ascent 
and looking ahead, the magnificent Caguas valley 





Am 



NEW DOCK, POXCE 
FIRE DEPARTMENT BUILDIXG, PONCE 



ACROSS THE ISLAND 49 

is seen, with the httle red-roofed town nestling 
in a broad green expanse between the surround- 
ing hills, and with the Turabo and Caguas rivers 
winding like great silver ribbons across the circu- 
lar valley. 

Caguas is a thriving tobacco-growing town of 
about twenty-seven thousand inhabitants, and is 
distant about twenty-five miles from San Juan. 
On all sides may be seen broad fields of 
tobacco, with the great, thatched drying-sheds 
standing in their midst, and during growing 
time the ground appears as if covered with 
snow, owing to the immense areas of cheese- 
cloth stretched above the fields. Under this pro- 
tection the tobacco leaves grow large, fair, and 
delicate, and are highly valued for wrappers. 
There are several large tobacco warehouses and 
packing houses at Caguas, and a visit to these 
will prove most interesting. In these great build- 
ings one may see hundreds of tons of tobacco of 
all grades and in all stages of preparation. Few 
people realise the amount of time, labour, and 
skill necessary to prepare tobacco for the market. 
Machinery has yet to be devised which will per- 
form the work of sorting, curing, bundling, tying, 



50 PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

and baling tobacco, and each and every individual 
leaf must be handled over and over again from 
the time it is cut from the plant until it is ready 
for manufacture into cigars. Most of this 
work is done by native men, women, and chil- 
dren, who become wonderfully skilful and rapid 
in the work. 

Caguas has wide, fairly well-kept streets, two 
hotels, several restaurants, numerous stores, a 
pretty plaza, and a picturesque church. One of 
the finest of the island schools is here, and in 
addition there are 14< graded and 11 rural schools, 
a good library, a hospital, a splendid water sys- 
tem, and electric lights. A telephone system 
connects the town with the rest of the island, a 
railway connects it with Rio Piedras, and in every 
way the people are provided with modern appli- 
an<:es, improvements, and conveniences. 

Beyond Caguas the road passes for some dis- 
tance across the fairly level valley, the roadway 
bordered by glorious scarlet-flowered flambou or 
poinciana trees that form an arch of living fire 
across the highway. Gradually it commences to 
rise towards the mountains that loom ahead, and 
presently we are winding in serpentine curves 





PLAZA AND CATHEDRAL, PONCE 
PONCE MARKET 



ACROSS THE ISLAND 51 

round and round the towering mountainside. In a 
few moments we have risen far above the valley 
and look down upon sparkling rivers, broad green 
fields, verdure-filled valleys, and sweeping hillsides 
far beneath us. Steadily the road climbs up- 
ward, spanning deep barrancas on ancient Span- 
ish bridges, curving along the very brinks of 
precipices, rounding jutting mountainsides and 
frowning cliffs, a very marvel of engineering skill # 
and an everlasting monument to the enduring and 
thorough work of the old Spanish engineers. Al- 
though the grade is nowhere steep, yet the ascent 
of the mountain is so sharp that within a distance 
of some fifteen miles the traveller attains a height 
of over two thousand feet, and on the descent one^s 
ears ring and hum with the rapid change of atmos- 
pheric pressure. Here and there along the road 
we see beautiful tree-ferns, symbols of high tropic 
altitudes, while tropical vegetation of innumer- 
able forms, air-plants, orchids, trailing ferns, and 
gorgeous flowers greet the tourist at every turn. 
Reaching the summit of the divide, the road leads 
us rapidly down to the smiling emerald valley, 
wherein nestles the little red-roofed town of 
Cayey, with the large military barracks promi- 



52 PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

nent on a low hilltop in the foreground. Just 
before the town is reached we see a road which 
branches off to the south towards Guayama, and 
passing this, we enter the narrow streets of 
Cayey. The town was founded in 1774, and has 
a population of about seventeen thousand, and 
is at an elevation of about thirteen hundred 
feet above the sea. The town is cool, healthy, 
and clean, and is devoted mainly to tobacco 
and coffee growing. There is a fairly good 
native hotel, numerous cafes, a hospital, numer- 
ous churches, 12 graded and 12 rural schools 
in the town, but it is of little interest to 
travellers. Leaving the narrow and rough streets 
of the place behind, we soon commence a second 
ascent of a mountain range even loftier than the 
one we have passed. At each turn and twist we 
marvel at the amount of labour required to con- 
struct the road, and exclaim in admiration at the 
glorious panorama unfolded tO' our view. Hugging 
precipitous mountainsides, skirting bold cliffs 
and precipices, stretching across narrow " hog- 
backs," but ever climbing upward, the road ex- 
tends until an altitude of some two thousand feet 
is reached and we look down upon Aibonito, 





SCENE ON ARECIBO ROAD 
ARECIBO PLAZA 



ACROSS THE ISLAND 53 

sleeping on a green and rolling table-land and 
girt around with lofty mountains. Aibonito is 
itself nearly two thousand feet above the sea, 
and is cool and healthy. The population is 
about ten thousand, and its principal industry 
is tobacco and coffee cultivation. There is an 
excellent water supply, two churches, a hos- 
pital, a hotel, three mission schools, nine graded 
schools, and eight rural schools in the town, but 
otherwise it is of little real interest. From Aibo- 
nito the road again ascends a mountain through 
groves of coffee, tropical vegetation, and wooded 
ravines and, reaching the summit of the range, 
3,300 feet above the sea, we look forth upon a 
scene of wonderful magnificence, impossible to de- 
scribe. On every hand stretch vast, rich valleys, 
lofty mountains, and green hills. Deep within the 
cool ravines we catch glimpses of running water; 
here and there tiny thatched huts peep from 
the bowers of banana and palm trees or perch on 
the very brinks of precipices, and looking towards 
the south, we catch a glimpse of sparkling blue, — 
the shimmering surface of the Caribbean sea. 
From this lofty aerie the road dips sharply down 
in wonderful, sinuous curves and sharp turns, and 



54* PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

within six miles we drop to Coamo, a mere 500 
feet above sea level. Coamo has 17,000 inhabit- 
ants, was founded in 1606, is provided with a 
hospital, graded and rural schools, a splendid 
water supply, and produces coffee, sugar, fruits, 
and vegetables. A few miles from the town are 
the famed Coamo^^Sgrings whose waters are noted 
for their medicinal properties. Here there is a 
well-equipped sanitarium, a splendid hotel, and 
baths, which are the mecca of many visitors af- 
flicted with rheumatic or other ailments. 

The descent from the high mountain tops of 
the central range to the lower lands of the south 
is marked by great changes in vegetation, and as 
we speed southward towards Ponce we find that 
moss, ferns, and other odd forms of growth have 
disappeared and we are passing through a scene 
which might be in our own New England states, 
and which reminds us of a road through the Berk- 
shires or the Litchfield hills. Thick, bushy trees 
have taken the place of tree-ferns, palms and 
bamboo are seldom seen, broad spreading trees 
shade the road and valleys, meadows and hillsides 
are covered with a growth of waving green grassi 
amid which sleek cattle and quiet ponies graze 





COLUMBUS SPRING, AGUADILLA 
SAX GERMAN CHURCH 



ACROSS THE ISLAND 55 

in peace. Soon the little town of Juana Diaz 
is passed and a little later the road winds and 
curves through an arch of poinciana trees across 
the level coastal plain and leads us to the out- 
lying streets of Ponce. 



CHAPTER V 

PONCE AND THE WESTERN COAST 

The city of Ponce is very different in climate, 
situation, appearance, and character from San 
Juan, or in fact any of the other Porto Rican 
towns. Whereas San Juan is hilly and the build- 
ings are mainly of two or more stories. Ponce is 
flat as a table and the majority of the buildings 
are but one story in height. It is far more Span- 
ish in character than the capital and in many 
ways is more attractive. The streets are fairly 
wide, but they are not so well kept as in San Juan ; 
the buildings are more generally of Spanish archi- 
tecture, the town is more regularly laid out, and 
the people are, on the whole, more sociable, hos- 
pitable, and less Americanised than in San Juan. 
On the other hand, English is more generally 
spoken in Ponce stores than in those of San Juan, 
prices are lower for most goods, and more people 
are to be seen upon the streets during business 
hours. The town is far hotter than San Juan 
and the nights are scarcely cooler than the days, 

0a 



PONCE AND THE WESTERN COAST 57 

although the sea breezes prevail throughout the 
greater portion of the year. Ponce is one of the 
foremost cities on the island, both industriously 
and commercially, and is the shipping port for 
the main coffee-growing districts as well as for 
a large proportion of the sugar produced on the 
island. The casual visitor sees little of Ponce's 
commerce, for the docks, or " muelle," and the 
" playa," or shore front, are some distance from 
the centre of the town, whereas at San Juan they 
are close to the main business section of the city 
and consequently much in evidence. The playa 
is a busy place, and a constant stream of drays, 
trucks, and bull-carts pass and repass through 
the rough streets leading to the water-front. At 
some distance from the shore proper, and reached 
by a long causeway, is the new dock, or " muelle," 
a large and commodious wharf and building 
reached by a drive, or by trolley cars from the 
city. The inevitable plaza forms the central fea- 
ture of the city, and here, among spreading shade 
trees is an ornamental kiosk, — in which the bands 
play on certain evenings, — the local fire depart- 
ment building, and the imposing Cathedral, over 
two hundred feet in depth and 120 feet in height. 



58 PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

Ponce is well supplied with educational institu- 
tions, with 61 graded schools, a kindergarten, 
and a large high school in the city and eight 
graded schools in the playa suburb, while in the 
immediate district are 37 rural schools. There 
are numerous hotels, the Melia, Inglaterra, and 
Frances being the best, with the Frances ranking 
first in point of comfort, food, and price. Public 
institutions are also numerous, and include an 
asylum for the blind, a women's hospital, a gen- 
eral hospital, St. Luke's hospital, and an insane 
asylum. The La Perla Theatre is probably the 
largest and best on the island, while the " Cine " 
or moving-picture theatre, known as " Las De- 
licias," is airy, neat, and pleasantly situated close 
to the Plaza. There are numbers of fine resi- 
dences, many large stores and restaurants, a 
splendid roofed market, a Casino, several clubs, 
baseball grounds, and the Hippodrome, where 
horse races are held. The population of the 
municipal district of Ponce is about sixty-three 
thousand and the town itself spreads over a wide 
area and gives the impression of a much larger 
city than San Juan. The town is provided with 
a good water system, electric lights, telephones, 




CAGUAS PLAZA 
STREET IN CAROLIXA 



PONCE AND THE WESTERN COAST 59 

an ice factory, a sanitary milk company, and is 
the terminus of the American railway. Several 
prosperous shops and factories are located in the 
city and numerous industries are carried on, 
mainly the manufacture of carriages, cigars, ciga- 
rettes, rum, soda-water, hats, laces, and drawn- 
work. The inhabitants are very fond of plants 
and flowers, and scarce a patio, balcony, or gar- 
den can be found which is not gorgeous with trop- 
ical flowers, blooming shrubs, vines, palms, etc. 
The climate is very conducive to vegetable growth 
and the visitor is usually filled with wonder at 
seeing the telegraph and telephone wires every- 
where covered with a luxuriant growth of orchid- 
like air plants which grow in bunches everywhere 
and make the wires appear as if decorated with 
innumerable bird's nests. 

As a place of residence Ponce is inferior to San 
Juan or the interior towns, but it has an atmos- 
phere and attractiveness of its own and appears 
far more like a South or Central American town 
than any other city on the island. From Ponce 
the traveller may visit many other cities by train 
or auto, and among the places worth visiting may 
be mentioned Arecibo, Mayaguez, Aguadilla, etc. 



60 PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

The road to Arecibo is wonderfully interesting 
and attractive, and passes through some of the 
most rugged and picturesque country on the 
island. Some twelve miles from Ponce the road 
enters Adjuntas, a little hill town of about six- 
teen thousand inhabitants and situated at an ele- 
vation of 1,700 feet above the sea in the very 
midst of the cofFee-growing districts. The town 
is built in a small valley surrounded by hills and 
mountains, the highest of which, " El Novillo," 
rises to 3,000 feet above the sea. The scenery 
about Adjuntas is charming, and from some of 
the nearby mountain tops one may gaze upon the 
Atlantic to the north and the Caribbean to the 
south by merely turning about. The climate is 
cool, there is an excellent water system, a pic- 
turesque plaza, and the town contains seven 
graded and 15 rural schools. From Adjuntas 
the road climbs steadily upward to Utuado, ris- 
ing at one place to a height of nearly thirty-three 
hundred feet. Utuado has 30,000 inhabitants 
and was founded in 1739, and is devoted princi- 
pally to raising coffee, cane, etc. The town is 
lighted by electricity, there is a splendid water 
supply, a hospital, and public library, while 51 



PONCE AND THE WESTERN COAST 61 

schools provide educational accommodations for 
the district. In the vicinity of the town are many 
caves in which various Indian relics have been 
found and much light may be thrown upon the 
aboriginal inhabitants by a scientific exploration 
of these caverns. In the vicinity of Utuado the 
mountain scenery is very rugged and many bare 
and naked peaks of rocks may be seen projecting 
above the green verdure of the hillsides, while 
dashing mountain streams foam in roaring cas- 
cades among the deep tropical vegetation of the 
ravines. Beyond Utuado the road descends to- 
wards the northern coast and at last leads to 
Arecibo, a flourishing town and a very important 
port, and one of the most typically Spanish cities 
on the island. The town has a population of 
about forty-two thousand and was founded in 
16^6. Fruit, cane, coffee, and other crops are 
grown in the neighbourhood!, and many large 
swamps have been drained and reclaimed to form 
rich cane fields. Arecibo is connected with San 
Juan and other towns by railway, and although 
a shipping port, it has no real harbour, — the 
anchorage being merely an open roadstead. 
There are 28 graded and 36 rural schools within 



62 PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

the municipality, and the town is well provided 
with modern improvements, well-stocked stores, 
fairly good hotels, etc. From Arecibo the road 
may be taken west to Aguadilla, made famous as 
the port at which Columbus obtained water for 
his ships, and while the scenery is uninteresting, 
the land flat, and the road not over good, yet a 
visit to Aguadilla is well worth while. The city 
has a population of some twenty thousand inhab- 
itants and the climate is delightful; the ocean 
breezes giving relief from the heat of the day 
and making the nights deliciously cool. The peo- 
ple of Aguadilla are very proud of their city, and 
an ornamental fountain and stone basin mark the 
spot where the great discoverer landed, and the 
same spring, " Ojo de Agua," from which he ob- 
tained water for his caravels, is still used as a 
source of water supply by the people. Agua- 
dilla is situated in a densely populated district 
and the inhabitants show a most commendable 
tendency to learn modern ideas and to improve 
their condition, and the numerous schools of the 
district are wonderfully well patronised. The 
principal industries are coff*ee, sugar, fruit-grow- 
ing, and cigar-making, but excellent hats are also 





TOBACCO UNDER SHADE, CAYEY 
COMERIO FALLS 



PONCE AND THE WESTERN COAST 63 

made in the neighbourhood. The town is con- 
nected by railway with San Juan and other towns, 
is equipped with electric light, has modern im- 
provements, and is neat, clean, and sanitary. 

From Aguadilla to Aguada one may travel by 
road, but the country is not particularly interest- 
ing, and as the road from Aguada to Mayaguez 
is bad, it is preferable to make the trip around 
the western coast by train or else to travel to 
Mayaguez from Ponce by auto. Aguada is inter- 
esting historically, as it was founded by Soto- 
mayor, one of Ponce de Leon's officers. The orig- 
inal town was destroyed by Indians and the ruins 
may still be seen. The present town has a popu- 
lation of about twelve thousand people, most of 
whom are engaged in cultivating sugar cane and 
coffee and manufacturing hats. A large sugar 
mill, " El Coloso," also employs a great number 
of the inhabitants in the vicinity. There is some 
question as whether Aguada or Aguadilla was the 
spot at which Columbus first landed to obtain 
water ; the people of both towns claiming the hon- 
our of having the original spring, and both towns 
are named in commemoration of the landing. 

Rincon, a thriving little town of nearly eight 



64? PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

thousand inhabitants, lies further to the south at 
the extreme western end of the island, in the 
sugar district, and is supported mainly by the 
neighbouring " Central Corsica." Still further 
to the south and about three miles from the coast 
is the thriving city of Afiasco, founded in 1773, 
and with a population of about fifteen hundred. 
This town is mainly of interest on account of the 
Afiasco River, in which, according to tradition, 
the Indians drowned the Spaniard Salcedo in order 
to ascertain the truth of the Spaniards' claim to 
immortality. 

From Afiasco an excellent road runs to Maya- 
guez, which was founded in 1763 and was named 
in honour of Our Lady of Canolemas of Maya- 
guez. The town has a population of some forty- 
three thousand inhabitants and is one of the most 
attractive and important cities on the island. 
The harbour is large and deep and affords a safe 
anchorage for large vessels. It is an important 
shipping port for the adjoining country and has 
two lines of rai^vay connecting it with the rich 
agricultural districts ; a street railway, and good 
highways to Afiasco and Ponce. The three prin- 
cipal plazas, known as Columbus Square, Flower 



PONCE AND THE WESTERN COAST 65 

Square, and the Old Plaza, are all well worth a 
visit, and the numerous public buildings and fine 
residences add to the attractiveness of the town. 
The most noteworthy buildings are the City Hall, 
the San Antonio Hospital, the court houses, pub- 
lic market, and United States Experiment Station. 
The latter institution is very important and 
while a great deal of work of value is carried on, 
yet much more might be accomplished. As it is, 
many planters and officials of the island are al- 
most totally ignorant of the work done and have 
received no help in their agricultural troubles. 
Publicity is sadly lacking in regard to all matters 
pertaining to Porto Rico, and in no line of activ- 
ity is it more needed than in matters relating to 
agriculture and the researches and results of in- 
vestigations carried on by our Agricultural De- 
partment and the Insular Experiment Station. 

Continuing southward along the western rail- 
way, or over the highway, we reach the quaint 
and ancient city of San German, founded in 1512, 
and named by no less a personage than Diego Co- 
lumbus, son of the famous discoverer. Historic- 
ally the town is full of interest, for it has been 
attacked and destroyed by pirates, Indians, and 



66 PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

other enemies, and each time it has been rebuilt 
in a new spot, so that the town has been moved 
hither and thither along the southern shore of 
the island. The first destruction of the town by 
Europeans took place in 1528, when it was at- 
tacked by the French ; but it was soon rebuilt, and 
in 1748 was attacked by the English, who landed 
at Guanica, but were finally repulsed and forced 
to retreat by sea. A very ancient church, the 
Convent o de Porta Coeli, built in 1538, stands in 
the present town, and numerous other buildings 
date back to the sixteenth and seventeenth cen- 
turies. The town is beautifully situated among 
the hills overlooking the rich valley of the Guana- 
jibo River, and from its location it is known lo- 
cally as the " City of the Hills." To north and 
south there are ranges of mountains which divert 
the trade winds and cause them to blow across the 
town and its valley, thus tempering the heat and 
making the climate really delightful; facts which 
were recognised by the Spaniards, who built large 
barracks in the town and in which newly arrived 
troops from Spain and other places were ac- 
climated. 

The lowlands in the vicinity are mainly culti- 



PONCE AND THE WESTERN COAST 67 

vated for sugar cane^ while coffee and fruit are 
grown on the surrounding hillsides. Since the 
completion of the main line of the railway the 
commercial and agricultural interests have in- 
creased very rapidly, and the town has been rap- 
idly improved and built up. At the present time 
it has a population of about twenty- two thousand, 
with two banks, eight wholesale business houses, 
and many retail stores, as well as a theatre, four 
hotels, a charity hospital, many churches, a good 
city hall, a municipal market, the military bar- 
racks, numerous schools, and a library. 

The next town of importance is Sabana Grande, 
about eight miles from the southern coast in a 
rich tobacco, coffee, and sugar district, and on a 
branch line of the railway. The town has about 
twelve thousand inhabitants and is one of the 
most healthy spots in Porto Rico. 

Beyond Sabana Grande is the town of Yauco, 
with a population of nearly thirty-two thousand, 
and on the line of the American railway and the 
Ponce-Mayaguez highway. The town was founded 
in 1756 and depends upon sugar cane and coffee 
for its prosperity. About one-sixth of the total 
area of the district is devoted to coffee, while the 



68 PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

lowlands are planted with sugar cane. Most of 
the cane grown in the neighbourhood is ground 
in the mill known as the " Guanica Central," one 
of the most important and modern mills on the 
island and from which the sugar is shipped 
through the nearby port of Guanica. Guanica, 
which is some eight miles from Yauco, is famous 
as the landing place of the American troops under 
General Miles, who invaded Porto Rico on July 
25, 1898. In addition to sugar and tobacco, the 
district also produces fruit, cabinet woods, fibres, 
and other products. There are 39 public schools 
in the municipality, while in the town there is a 
new hospital, several fine churches, a Masonic 
Temple, an electric light and power plant, and 
many notable public and private buildings. 

Guayanilla, said to be the most progressive 
small town on the island, is a few miles to the 
east of Yauco, and is mainly of importance on 
account of its commodious harbour, which affords 
a safe and almost landlocked refuge for small 
vessels. Leaving Guayanilla and proceeding east- 
erly, we pass through Penuelas, and soon after- 
wards enter Ponce and complete our circuit of 
the western end of the island. 



"~1 





SCENE ON THE SOUTH SHORE 
SALT PLAINS AND CACTI, SOUTHERN COAST 



CHAPTER VI 

THE EASTERN AND SOUTHEEN COASTS 

Although the greater portion of Porto Rico 
is hilly or mountainous and the scenery is very 
similar throughout the interior, yet on the eastern 
and southern coasts the landscapes are very dif- 
ferent from other parts of the island, and these 
sections are well worth visiting. Unfortunately 
the roads on the east and south are not nearly as 
good as on the interior or on the north, but in 
dry weather there is no difficulty in traversing 
them in an automobile, although many rivers must 
be forded. In wet weather, or after heavy rains, 
some of these fords are almost impassable,^ and 
any one desiring to make a trip along the eastern 
and southern coasts should select a dry spell for 
their tour. From San Juan one may tour easily 
over excellent roads to Carolina, a neat little 
town of some sixteen thousand people, situated in 
a rich sugar-producing district. Beyond Caro- 
lina the road is fair to Loiza, a quaint little town 
which was originally situated on the coast near 



70 PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

the moutli of the Loiza River, where it remained 
until January, 1910, when it was removed to the 
present site. Beyond Loiza the road passes 
through Rio Grande, a town of some fourteen 
thousand inhabitants, nestling in a valley with the 
towering Luquillo range of mountains behind it. 
From Rio Grande the road improves, and by the 
time Fajardo is reached the highway is excellent. 
Fajardo, situated at the extreme eastern end of 
the island, is a town of £2,000 inhabitants, and 
with the Luquillo River on one side and the Fa- 
jardo on the other. It is one of the wealthiest 
sugar districts of Porto Rico and has many nice 
buildings, numerous stores, and a large number 
of graded and rural schools. 

The country on this eastern coastal plain is 
low, ilat, and very monotonous, but the panorama 
of the great interior mountains is entrancing, with 
the tallest peak. El Yunque, towering over all, 
while to the left one catches glimpses of the shim- 
mering Caribbean Sea gleaming through vistas 
of feathery palms or breaking in silver foam upon 
white sandy beaches. Passing Fajardo and con- 
tinuing southward we finally arrive at Naguabo, 
a town of 15,000 inhabitants, and surrounded by 



EASTERN AND SOUTHERN COASTS 71 

broad cane fields, the beautiful palm-fringed sea 
before it and the lofty mountains at its rear, 
while the sweeping trade winds blow ceaselessly 
in from the broad open ocean. 

From this picturesque spot the highway leads 
onward to Humacao, an interesting, typically 
Spanish town dating back to 179^, and with a 
population of some twenty-seven thousand inhab- 
itants. The city is beautifully situated in a valley 
enclosed on three sides by mountains, with the 
ocean but six miles distant and with a very healthy 
and pleasant climate. The surrounding country 
is very fertile, and vast quantities of sugar cane 
and tobacco, a considerable amount of coffee, and 
many cattle are raised in the district. 

Humacao is neat and scrupulously clean, with 
a very pretty, well-kept plaza, smooth streets, 
and substantial, attractive buildings. There are 
numerous stores, several churches, a municipal 
library and other public buildings, and the hotel 
accommodations are by no means bad. In the 
district are 21 graded and 22 rural schools, with 
many school libraries, and last, but by no means 
least in the estimations of the peopk, there is a 



n PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

city band, of which every man, woman, and child 
is justly proud. 

From Humacao one may travel over the moun- 
tains to Caguas, or by the shore to Ponce via 
Guayama. The latter route leads through some 
very beautiful scenery and through a country very 
different in character from other portions of the 
island. Leaving Humacao, we almost immediately 
reach a small river. At first appearances there 
would appear to be little difficulty in fording this 
with an automobile, for it is only about one hun- 
dred feet in width and sixteen or eighteen inches 
in depth. Unless one has an amphibious ma- 
chine, however, it is unwise to attempt to ford 
the river under power; it is better to hire a yoke 
of oxen or a half-dozen men to pull the car 
through, for the bottom of the river is almost 
quicksand and many machines are stalled in the 
ford each year. 

Having safely crossed the river, we proceed 
over a rough and flinty road for a few miles, 
when the road again becomes excellent and passes 
between rugged hillsides on one hand and broad, 
pale-green cane fields on the other, with a most 
charming view of Humacao against its back- 



EASTERN AND SOUTHERN COASTS 73 

ground of green-clad mountains. For many miles 
the road is very smooth and well kept, almost 
perfectly level, and with several small rivers to 
cross. 

The first town reached is Yabucoa, with some 
eighteen thousand inhabitants, in the midst of a 
rich sugar district, with the huge " Central Mer- 
cedes " forming a prominent landmark. Here it 
is necessary to turn aside at the " Central " and 
pass over the mill's bridges, pass to the rear of 
the buildings, and emerge on the highroad fur- 
ther on ; for the ford at the main road is usually 
impassable for automobiles. Yabucoa itself is of 
little interest, being an irregularly-built town with 
poor, hilly streets but with very pleasant, good- 
natured people, many of whom speak English. 
From Yabucoa the road at once commences to 
climb the mountains and in a few minutes we find 
ourselves far up on the mountain side, the valley 
stretching miles away to the coastal plain behind 
us and the little town clustered close to the wind- 
ing river and the fields of cane. Round and round 
the mountainside the road winds, ever rising 
higher and higher, clinging like a slender ribbon 
to the slopes and shaded by odd, tropical growths, 



74* PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

waving palms, broad-leaved plantains, and ba- 
nanas, and delicate tree-ferns, and with beautiful 
views of mountains, valleys, and plains at every 
turn. At last the crest of the ridge is reached, 
and as we round the highest turn of the road 
we look upon one of the most magnificent views in 
the island. From the lofty roadside the mountain- 
side drops steeply down to a silvery river, falling 
in little cascades among the greenery. Beyond 
stretch broad, velvety fields of cane through 
which the white road winds and twists to a tiny, 
white, red-roofed town in the distance, and still 
further, between jutting mountain spurs we see 
the broad, blue Caribbean Sea stretching from the 
palm-fringed beach to the hazy horizon, with Cu- 
lebra, phantasmal and cloudlike to the left. Rap- 
idly the splendid road leads downward towards 
the valley and then through waving fields of cane 
until the streets of Maunabo are reached. This 
is a small town of only 8,000 inhabitants, but 
neat, clean, and quite up to date, and with a 
pretty little plaza in its centre. Beyond the 
town the road is smooth and level as a floor and 
leads, by wide sweeping curves, to the sea, where 
it turns to the right and ascends the coastal ex- 





A MOUNTAIN RIVER NEAR COMERIO 
A LOWLAND RIVER NEAR J UNCOS 



EASTERN AND SOUTHERN COASTS 75 

tremitj of a mountain. From here the view is 
superb, with the turquoise sea breaking in snowy 
surf upon the beach 200 feet beneath the 
road and with countless pahn trees fringing road 
and beach for miles upon miles. Soon the last 
hills of the road are left behind and we speed 
smoothly along a perfect road close to the palm- 
fringed shore to Patillas, a little sugar town of 
15,000 inhabitants. From here the road con- 
tinues perfect to Guayama, a large and pros- 
perous town of 18,000 people, in the midst of a 
very rich sugar-producing district. The town is 
connected with the interior by a splendid road 
leading to Cayey, and has an air of prosperity, 
business, and thrift that is very attractive. 
There is a well-shaded and pretty plaza, a fine 
cathedral, several large public buildings, numer- 
ous stores, and 16 graded schools in the town. 

Leaving Guayama, the level boulevard-like road 
leads onward through Salinas, a well-kept little 
town, mainly of note for the numerous prehis- 
toric Indian relics which have been found nearby 
and for the caverns containing inscriptions, carv- 
ings, and utensils in the immediate vicinity. Sa- 
linas, however, is an attractive little town with a 



76 PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

pretty plaza, neat houses, and well-stocked stores, 
and with some exceptionally well-built schools. 
The next town reached is Santa Isabel, with its 
palm-embowered plaza. Beyond this pretty little 
town the character of the country rapidly 
changes. The district is almost wholly devoted 
to sugar, and far and wide stretch the fields, the 
great mills standing prominently here and there, 
the long barrack-like houses of the field hands 
rising above the cane and the rugged mountains 
far off to the right and blue and hazy in the 
distance. Gradually the rich sugar land gives 
way to broad and barren stretches, sparsely cov- 
ered with greyish, thorny scrub, great bunches of 
prickly pear, and clusters of Spanish Bayonets. 
On the left, and stretching to the shore, are wide, 
level, salt flats, their black, clayey surface baked 
hard by the sun and with streaks and spots of 
white salt showing upon them. Reddish, burnt 
bushes, dull, scraggly shrubs, and immense giant 
cacti cover the flats and give an arid, desolate 
appearance to the landscape, while here and there 
the road passes through dark, stagnant salt water 
swamps with odd mangroves, dense and tangled, 
and trees draped with grey Spanish moss. Grad- 



EASTERN AND SOUTHERN COASTS 77 

ually the cacti-covered deserts grow less and less, 
the swamps and moss-draped trees become more 
frequent, and finally, emerging from a heavily- 
wooded, swampy section, we find ourselves once 
more in the outlying streets of Ponce. 



CHAPTER VII 

HERE AND THERE IN THE INTERIOR 

Beautiful as are the coastal districts, and fas- 
cinating as are the panoramas unfolded by the 
trip over the Military Road, yet these are dull 
and insignificant when compared to several other 
interior routes. 

From Caguas a side trip may be taken to Hu- 
macao, and on this road there is scenery, quaint 
points of interest, and stretches of road that can- 
not be seen elsewhere on the island. Turning to 
the left at Caguas Plaza and passing through the 
town towards the east, the road is excellent and 
passes through well-cultivated country with the 
mountains on every side. Several miles beyond 
Caguas the road crosses the " Rio Grande de 
Loiza," over a magnificent iron bridge. The river 
scene here is very beautiful; the stream flowing 
peacefully along its stony bed beneath great 
clumps of feathery plume-like bamboo and bor- 
dered by lush-green meadows on which sleek cattle 
graze contentedly or rest beneath the grateful 
78 



IN THE INTERIOR 79 

shade of spreading trees. The stranger to the 
tropics is often filled with wonder at the immense 
and lofty bridges which span small and narrow 
streams. In dry weather the rivers meander 
along in the centre of broad, stony gullies and 
the great bridges seem out of place and unneces- 
sary. Visit the same spot after a heavy rain or 
in the wet season, however, and you will no longer 
marvel, for in place of the tiny rivulet you will 
see a roaring, rushing torrent tearing seaward 
and flowing in foam-flecked surges far across the 
meadow land and even burying the bridge and 
road beneath several feet of turbid water. 

Beyond the Rio Grande bridge the road con- 
tinues excellent to the quaint town of Gurabo, a 
comparatively modern town, founded in 1815, and 
well lighted with electricity and with all modern 
improvements. The town has a population of 
about twelve thousand and has many attractive 
buildings, a neat plaza, and some fifteen schools. 
Near the town is an odd pyramid-shaped hill, 
covered from base to summit with little thatched 
native huts and forming a sharp and picturesque 
contrast to the modem cement houses in the town. 
From Gurabo the road is unequalled to Juncos, 



80 PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

a prosperous town of 12,000 inhabitants and in 
a rich sugar and fruit district. Juncos has elec- 
tric lights, a splendid hospital, seven graded, and 
nine rural schools, and numerous churches and 
public buildings. On the outskirts of the town 
the road descends a steep hill, turns abruptly, and 
ends at the sandy beach of a broad, quiet river. 

Although the road ends, its continuation can 
be seen on the further shore, but the only connec- 
tion is a remarkable bridge or bridge-like struc- 
ture consisting of two parallel planks supported 
on short upright posts and with an open space 
in the centre. Although it seems a rickety and 
dangerous affair for automobile traffic, yet it is 
really safe, and with a little care in driving there 
is no difficulty in crossing. 

On the further side of the river the road is 
very rough, stony, and bad for several miles, and 
the country on every hand is very different from 
most parts of the island. Many of the mountain- 
sides show bare, rocky ledges, while here and there 
the hillsides are covered with great isolated white 
boulders scattered about as if tossed from some 
Titan's hand or arranged in odd, semi-symmetrical 
patterns reminding one of Stonehenge or similar 



IN THE INTERIOR 81 

prehistoric ruins. The abundance of these stones 
has given the name of " Las Piedras " to a nearby 
village. At Las Piedras the road improves and 
is soon excellent and continues good until we 
reach Humacao. As we approach the latter town 
the scenery becomes truly magnificent, with 
sparkling rivers, roaring cataracts, and glimpses 
of the far-off sea beyond the green-clad mountain- 
sides and fertile valleys. 

Another splendid interior trip is that from 
Cayey to Guayama. This is the old Spanish road, 
and is a marvel of engineering skill. From Cayey 
the road climbs ever upward on the high central 
mountain range for mile after mile until, at an 
elevation of nearly three thousand feet, it drops 
down to picturesque Guayama at sea level by tor- 
tuous curves, hairpin turns, serpentine loops, and 
sharp twists around the very brinks of dizzy preci- 
pices. Throughout the trip the scenery is mag- 
nificently grand and the panorama of mountains, 
ravines, valle3^s, and plains is enhanced and made 
trebly attractive by the frequent glimpses of the 
gloriously blue sea in the distance. 

Still another trip, and to the author's mind the 
most attractive trip on the island, is over the so- 



Sa PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

called Comerio Road. Leaving San Juan by the 
ferry, we land at the waterside town of Catano 
and proceed over a splendidly surfaced road across 
the extensive mangrove swamps to Bayamon, a 
neat Spanish town over two hundred years old but 
with the up-to-date improvements of the twenti- 
eth century. Bayamon has a population of about 
thirty thousand, and while the present town dates 
back only to 1772, yet it was actually founded by 
Ponce de Leon in 1509 and for many years was 
known as "Pueblo Viejo." Moreover, it is in a 
district famous as having been the site of the first 
Spanish settlement in the island — the " Villa de 
Caparra," which afterwards became the " City of 
Puerto Rico," — and in 15S1 was moved to the 
other side of the bay and formed the nucleus for 
the capital city of San Juan. 

Bayamon has numerous manufactures, includ- 
ing an ice plant, brick and match factories, and 
a cigar factory which employs over a thousand 
people. It is in a rich and prosperous fruit dis- 
trict, and the surrounding country is settled 
largely by American planters engaged in the cul- 
tivation of grape fruit, pineapples, oranges, etc. 
From Bayamon the road ascends and descends 



IN THE INTERIOR 83 

rolling hills, passing through rich valleys and 
ever within sight of the sparkling Rio Plata until 
the new Rio Plata bridge is reached. Beyond the 
bridge the road rapidly ascends the mountains, 
running along the mountainside, with the winding 
river below and with lofty, green-clad mountains 
on the opposite side, each turn and twist bringing 
new and more beautiful vistas into view. As we 
ascend by easy grades the river recedes farther 
and farther away in the dim rocky gorge below, 
while frequent rapids and cascades are seen. Pres- 
ently a small dam with a foaming cascade of water 
bars the river, and a mile or two beyond we round 
a curve and see the great hydro-electric plant 
of the Porto Rico Light and Power Company, 
with its huge concrete dam and roaring spillway. 
Above the dam the artificial lake stretches its 
placid surface for several miles, the towering 
mountains mirrored on its azure bosom and sub- 
merged palm trees standing oddly in the water 
near the shores. From this plant the power is 
carried to San Juan and other places, and is used 
to operate trolleys, light the towns, and perform 
a thousand and one other duties throughout the 
surrounding country. 



84 PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

A few miles beyond the lake we reach the little 
mountain town of Comerio, its foot in the silvery 
river and its outlying houses nestling on the moun- 
tainside. It is a picturesque and pretty town 
of 12,000 inhabitants, and was formerly known as 
Sabana del Palma, or " Palm Meadow," from the 
immense numbers of royal palms in the vicinity. 
It is a progressive town, with some fourteen 
schools, a good church and plaza, numerous stores, 
and well-kept streets, and is mainly dependant 
upon coffee and tobacco for its prosperity. 
Above Comerio the road continues upward around 
the mountainside, and at each turn of a jutting 
spur a beautiful view of the valley, the town, and 
the serpentine river may be seen. 

The mountains seem never ending, and nowhere 
else on the island does the highroad turn and 
twist, double on itself, and loop-the-loop as on 
this portion of the route. As this is an American 
built road, it is interesting to compare it with the 
old Military Road and the Cayey-Guayama road, 
built by Spanish engineers, and it must be con- 
fessed that the comparison is not always favoura- 
ble to the American engineers. 

The views from the Comerio Road are superb, 



IN THE INTERIOR 85 

and are of such immensity, so sweeping, and so 
delightful that one is forced to stop and gaze 
upon the view at frequent intervals, and blase 
indeed must be the traveller who does not exclaim 
in admiration at the glorious scenery along this 
wonderful road. 

At last the topmost cloud-kissed ridge is 
reached, and dipping downward on the further 
side we soon reach Barranquitas, one of the most 
beautifully situated towns in Porto Rico and the 
highest town on the island, being at an altitude of 
some eighteen hundred feet above sea level. The 
town has a population of about ten thousand and 
is in the centre of a cofFee-growing country. The 
town is neat, well kept, and remarkably cool and 
healthy, and at night heavy blankets and overcoats 
are frequently required. From Barranquitas the 
road leads through coffee groves and patches of 
mountain forest to a point on the Military Road 
above Aibonito, and from here the same route is 
followed through Cayey, Caguas, and Rio Piedras 
as described in a former chapter. 

In addition to these trips, there are various 
others, each charming and attractive in its own 
way and each leading the tourist through new 



86 PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

and interesting scenes and an endless succession of 
vistas and wonderful mountain panoramas. Even 
the same road is never twice alike. At morning 
or evening, in brilliant tropic sun or when veiled 
with mountain showers, each turn of the road and 
each smiling valley has a different aspect, and the 
tourist, fond of natural scenery, of lofty moun- 
tains and of fresh air and outdoors life, can find 
in Porto Rico a never-ending source of pleasure 
and magnificent natural beauties. 



i 



CHAPTER VIII 

TOWNS AND MUNICIPALITIES 

Porto Rico is divided into 69 different munici- 
palities, each of which is practically autonomous ; 
the chief officials being elected by the residents 
and the subordinate officials being appointed by 
those elected. These various communities are, 
with but slight changes, the same communities 
established by Spain, for Porto Rico was a prac- 
tically independent and free country long before 
the Americans took possession. In each of the 
municipalities the chief town is the administrative 
centre and in nearly every case the district is 
named from the town. 

The chief executive of each municipality is the 
" Alcalde," or mayor, while local legislative power 
lies in the municipal councils — bodies which vary 
as to the number of members according to the size 
of the municipality, those of Class I having a 
council of nine members ; those of Class II, seven 
members, and those of Class III, five members. 
Each district has in addition a secretary, a treaa- 

87 



88 PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

urer, a comptroller, an inspector of health and 
charities, and an inspector of public works. As 
these local municipal governments are not bur- 
dened with the expense of courts, save the justices 
of the peace, and do not have to maintain a police 
force, the comparatively small income afforded 
from local and insular taxes proves ample, and 
nearly every one of the districts is financially 
very well off. 

The following are the various municipalities of 
the island, but as many have been already de- 
scribed, a mere sketch of each will be given. In 
every case, however, it should be borne in mind 
that the population given for a certain place, or 
a certain town, in Porto Rico, does not imply the 
actual population of the city itself but the entire 
population of the municipality. 

Adjuntas. — On the Ponce-Arecibo road about 
18 miles north of Ponce. Located at an elevation 
of 1,700 feet above the sea in a rich coffee dis- 
trict. Population about 17,000. 

Aguada. — Between Rincon and Aguadilla and 
some two miles from the western coast. Popula- 
tion about 12,000. Chief industries, sugar cane, 
coffee, and the manufacture of hats. 





COUNTRY RESIDENCE OF A PEON 
CITY RESIDENCE OF A MERCHANT 



TOWNS AND MUNICIPALITIES 89 

Aguadilla, — North of Aguada, on the western 
coast. Population about 22,000. Principal in- 
dustries coffee, sugar cane, fruit, and cigar- 
making. The town is on the American railway 
and also on the Arecibo-Mayaguez road. 

Aguas Buenas. — An inland town of about 9,000 
inhabitants, in the coffee district. The munici- 
pality has many mineral and other springs and 
a most delightful climate. 

Aibomto. — On the Military Road, about 80 
kilometres from San Juan and 50 kilometres from 
Ponce. Population about 11,000. Industries, 
coffee and tobacco-growing. 

Anasco, — On the western part of the island 
about three miles from the sea and on the Amer- 
ican railway. Population about 15,000. Indus- 
tries, cane, coffee, and cocoanuts. 

Arecibo. — On the northern coast, about 50 
miles west of San Juan. Population about 
43,000. Industries, fruit, coffee, and cane, as 
well as cigar and other factories, 

Arroyo. — On the southern coast, on the Ponce- 
Humacao road, in the rich sugar district of the 
island. Population about 8,000. Considered the 
healthiest spot on the island, no epidemic ever 



90 PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

having occurred here. Famous as the first place 
in Porto Rico to have a telegraph line, the latter 
having been installed by the inventor, S. B. Morse, 
while on a visit to Porto Rico. 

Barceloneta. — In the northern part of the 
island, on the American railway in a rich fruit, 
coffee, and sugar district, 

Barranquitas. — Near the centre of the island, 
at an elevation of nearly £,000 feet, and on the 
Comerio-Aibonito road. Population about 13,000. 
Near the town are a number of caves in which 
Indian relics are found and which also furnish 
large quantities of bat guano. 

Barros. — ^A short distance west of Barran- 
quitas, among the mountains in the coffee, to- 
bacco, and fruit district. Population about 
16,000. 

Bayamon. — On the American railway and Can- 
tano-Arecibo road on the northern coast some 
IS miles from San Juan. Population about 
30,000. Industries mainly fruit culture and 
manufactures, including ice, matches, cigars, 
bricks, tiles, etc. Near here the first settlement 
on the island was made, the " Villa de Caparra '* 
which later became known as the " City of Puerto 



TOWNS AND MUNICIPALITIES 91 

Rico " and the capital of the island, and which 
in 1521 was moved across the bay and rechris- 
tened San Juan. 

Cabo Rojo. — On the southwestern coast in a 
rugged valley. Industries, sugar, coffee, tobacco, 
and cocoanuts, as well as sea salt. Reached by 
American railway. Population about 21,000. 

Caguas. — ^In the eastern-central part of the 
island on an extensive plain surrounded by moun- 
tains and on the Military Road. Population 
about 30,000. A steam railway connects the town 
with San Juan, about 18 miles distant. Indus- 
tries, cane, tobacco, and cigar manufacture, with 
some coffee. 

Camuy. — On the American railway on the 
northwest coast between Hatillo and Quebradillas. 
Industries, coffee, tobacco, and cane. Population 
about 16,000. 

Carolina. — In the rich cane district in the north- 
eastern part of the island on the " Carolina 
Road " which encircles the eastern end of the 
island. Population about 17,000. 

Cayey. — Near the centre of Porto Rico among 
the mountains at an elevation of some 1,500 feet. 
Situated on the Military Road at the junction 



92 PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

of the Guayama Road. Industries, coffee and 
tobacco, the latter being by far the more impor- 
tant. Here are located large army barracks, the 
seat of a United States Army post. Population 
about 18,000. 

dales. — Between Juana Diaz and Manati, 
north of the centre of the island in a mountain- 
encircled valley. Cattle, coffee, and tobacco are 
the principal products. Population about 20,000. 

Cidra. — In a mountainous district near the 
eastern end of the island on the road from Co- 
merio to Las Cruces. Elevation about 1,300 feet. 
Population about 11,000. Coffee and tobacco are 
the principal crops. 

Coamo. — Between Cayey and Ponce on the 
Military Road. Coffee, fruit, and sugar are the 
principal crops of the district. Population 
about 19,000. Coamo Springs, a few miles dis- 
tant, is famous for its medicinal baths and 
springs. 

Comerio, — In the north central part of the 
island on an excellent road between Barranquitas 
and Bayamon and a short distance above the 
hydro-electric plant of the Porto Rico Power and 
Lighting Company. Population about 12,000. 



TOWNS AND MUNICIPALITIES 93 

Principal products, coffee, tobacco, fruit, and 
some cane. 

Corozal. — On the road from Bayamon to Toa 
Alta in the northern part of the island in a moun- 
tainous district. Population, 13,000. The sur- 
rounding country produces coffee, sugar, tobacco, 
oranges, and fruit. The bed of the local river 
contains considerable gold, which is washed out 
by the natives, and in the neighbouring moun- 
tains there are numerous valuable deposits of 
copper, iron, gold, silver, and other minerals. 
Recently a shaft some 200 feet in depth has been 
sunk and the mines are being rapidly developed 
by American and Enghsh capital. 

Culehra, — On the island of Culebra a few miles 
off the eastern coast. Population about 2,000. 
Mainly noteworthy for its splendid harbour. 

Dorado. — On the American railway near the 
north coast between Bayamon and Vega Baja. 
The surrounding country produces citrus fruits, 
cattle and pineapples. Population about 6,000. 

Fajardo. — About a mile and one-half from the 
northeastern coast on the road to San Juan. In 
the heart of a rich sugar district. Population 
about 22,000. 



94 PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

Guayama. — Situated on a broad and fertile 
plain about 200 feet above the sea in the midst 
of a great sugar district and on the road from 
Ponce to Humacao. A road also connects with 
the Military Road at Cayey. Population about 
20,000. 

GuayaniUa. — On the southern coast between 
Ponce and Yauco and on the American railway. 
The healthy climate and beautiful bathing 
beaches attract many visitors from other towns 
on the islands. Population about 12,000. 

Guraho. — In the eastern part of Porto Rico 
on the Gurabo River. The principal industries 
are cane and tobacco cultivation. Population, 
12,000. 

Hatilla» — On the northern coast west of Are- 
cibo on the line of the American railway. The 
surrounding territory is devoted to tobacco, 
sugar, coffee, and cattle-raising. Much fre- 
quented as a summer resort by the people of 
Arecibo and other towns. Population about 
11,000. 

Humacao. — In the eastern part of the island 
on the road from Guayama to Caguas. Situated 
in a lovely valley surrounded on three sides by 



TOWNS AND MUNICIPALITIES 95 

mountains and some six miles from the ocean. 
Sugar, coffee, and tobacco are the principal re- 
sources. Population about 28,000. 

Isabella. — On the northwestern coast on a plain 
some 300 feet above the sea and overlooking the 
ocean. Reached by American railway and high- 
way. A favourite summer resort for the people 
of nearby towns. Sugar cane, tobacco, coffee, 
and fruits are raised, while phosphates are mined 
in the caverns of the neighbourhood. Population 
about 18,000. 

Jayuya, — ^Between Ponce and Arebico in the 
coffee district. Population about 11,000. 

Juana Diaz, — Situated on the Military Road 
northeast of Ponce and on a site donated by a 
lady named Juana Diaz, who gave the land under 
the conditions that the town should be named 
after her and that none of the municipal land 
should ever be sold or given away. Located in 
the heart of the coffee district but also in an 
extensive cattle and fruit-raising section. Popu- 
lation about 30,000. 

Juncos. — In the eastern part of the island on 
the Caguas-Humacao road. Sugar, tobacco, cof- 
fee, pineapples, bananas, mangoes, and other 



96 PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

fruits are all extensively raised. Population 
about 12,000. 

Lajas. — In the southwestern part of the island 
on the American railway and situated on a broad 
and fertile plain devoted to cane, tobacco, and 
fruit culture. Population about 12,000. A large 
pineapple cannery is situated here. 

Lares. — In the western portion of the island on 
the Arecibo-Mayaguez road at 1,250 feet above 
the sea. Coffee is the most important product, 
although cane is grown extensively. Numerous 
caves containing prehistoric inscriptions and im- 
plements are in the vicinity. Population, 23,000. 

Las Marias, — In the western portion of the 
island a short distance from Mayaguez and on 
the main highway to Lares. At an elevation of 
about 1,000 feet above the sea. Coffee, cane, to- 
bacco, fruit, and cattle are raised. Population 
about 11,000. 

Loiza. — In an extensive cane district in the 
northeastern section of the island. Originally the 
town was on the coast at the mouth of the Loiza 
River, but in 1910 was removed to the present 
situation, a short distance inland on the Carolina 
road. Population about 14,000. 



TOWNS AND MUNICIPALITIES 97 

Manati. — On the American railway near the 
northern coast three miles from the shore and in 
a beautiful vaUey. Tobacco, coffee, sugar, and 
various fruits are cultivated. Population about 
18,000. 

Mariacao. — East of Mayaguez and northeast of 
San German about 1,400 feet above the sea. 
Principal product is coffee. Population about 
8,000. 

Maunaho. — Near the coast on the southeast in 
the sugar cane district. On the main highway 
between Guayama and Humacao. Population, 
8,000. 

Mayaguez. — On the western coast. Has a 
large deep harbour and is on the American rail- 
way and highroads. One of the foremost cities 
on the island. Population nearly 50,000. 

Moca. — In the northwestern part of the island a 
short distance from Aguadilla on the highroad to 
Lares. In the coffee-producing district, from 
which the town was named. Population, 14,000. 

Morovis. — In the interior, north of the centre 
of the island and about 50 kilometres from San 
Juan. Mainly devoted to raising coffee, sugar, 
tobacco, and cattle. Population about 13,000. 



98 PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

Naguaho. — In the eastern part of the island 
near the towering Luquillo mountains on the road 
from Humacao to Fajardo. Sugar, grape fruits, 
and pineapples are cultivated. Population about 
15,000. 

Naranjito. — A mountain town on the road 
from Bayamon to Comerio and in one of the most 
picturesque locations on the island. Products,, 
tobacco and fruits. Population about 9,000. 

Patillas. — Near the coast in the southwestern 
part of the island on the main road near Gua- 
yama. Population about 15,000. 

Penuelas. — In the southern part of the island 
between Adjuntas and Ponce. Population, 
12,000. 

Ponce. — In the southern part of the island and 
the principal shipping port for coffee, sugar, and 
other products. Terminus of the American rail- 
way and Military Road. Ponce has many manu- 
facturing industries, among which are cigars, ciga- 
rettes, rum, soda-water, carriages, hats, laces, em- 
broideries, ice, brick, etc. Ponce is one of the 
places at which the American troops landed in 
Porto Rico, a force having taken possession of 



TOWNS AND MUNICIPALITIES 99 

the city on July 28, 1898, without resistance be- 
ing offered. Population about 64<,000. 

Quebradillas. — Near the coast in the north- 
western part of the island on the line of the Amer- 
ican railway between Isabella and Camuy. The 
district is devoted to sugar, tobacco, coffee, and 
cotton. Population about 9,000. 

Rincon, — ^At the western extremity of the 
island on the American railway between Anasco 
and Aguada in a rich cane district. Population 
about 14,000. 

Rio Grande. — In the northeastern part of 
the island about three and one-half miles from 
the shore in a deep valley. Population about 
14.,000. 

Rio Piedras, — About seven miles from San Juan 
on the Military Road. On the line of the Amer- 
ican railway and the terminus of the Caguas 
tramway and the San Juan trolley lines. Cane, 
cattle, and fruit are raised extensively, while 
bricks, tile, and lime are manufactured. Popula- 
tion about 19,000. 

Sabana Grande. — On the south side of the 
island near Guanica harbour. Products are cof- 
fee, cane, and tobacco. On a branch of the Amer- 



100 PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

ican railway and with a population of about 
12,000. 

Salinas. — In the southern part of the island 
between Santa Isabel and Guayama and on the 
Ponce-Guayama railway and the coast highway. 
Principal industries are the manufacture of salt, 
cattle-raising, and sugar. The immense sugar 
mill known as the " Central Aguirre " is located 
near this town. In the vicinity are numerous 
caves containing Indian relics, while extensive 
shell-heaps also contain utensils and implements 
of the aborigines. Population about 12,000. 

San German, — In the southwestern part of the 
island on the American railway between Maya- 
guez and Sabana Grande. Coffee, sugar, and 
fruits are the principal products. Population 
about 23,000. 

San Juan. — The capital and most important 
town on the island. Founded in 1511. San Juan 
is the headquarters of the United States Army in 
Porto Rico ; there is also a naval station, a weather 
bureau service, various other Federal departments, 
and one of the largest wireless stations in the 
world. The stores, factories, and industries of 
the town are numerous and thoroughly modern, 



TOWNS AND MUNICIPALITIES 101 

and altogether San Juan is a progressive, up-to- 
date city with an immense amount of business and 
traffic. Population about 50,000. 

San Lorenzo, — In the eastern part of the island 
in a mountainous district devoted to coffee, to- 
bacco, and cattle-raising. Population about 
15,000. 

San Sebastian, — In the northwestern part of 
the island on the road from Lares to Aguadilla. 
Coffee is the principal product. Population about 
19,000. 

Santa Isabel. — On the southern coast of the 
island on the Ponce-Guayama road and the 
Guayama railway, and in one of the richest sugar 
districts of Porto Rico. Cattle-raising is also 
an important industry in the vicinity. Popula- 
tion about 7,000. 

Toa Alta. — In the northern part of the island 
on the Toa River. The principal industries are 
the cultivation of coffee, tobacco, cane, and cat- 
tle-raising. Population about 10,000. 

Toa Baja. — North of Toa Alta on the Ameri- 
can railway in a cattle and dairy district. Popu- 
lation about 7,000. 

Trujillo Alto, — About seven miles southeast of 



lOa PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

Rio Piedras on the Caguas tramway line in a 
sugar-raising district. In the vicinity there are 
numerous limestone caves and also marble quarries. 
The principal industry is the cultivation of pine- 
apples and citrus fruits. Population about 7,000. 

Utuado. — West of the centre of the island on 
the Arecibo-Ponce road in the midst of high 
mountains. The principal industry is coffee rais- 
ing, but considerable sugar is also raised. Popu- 
lation about 31,000. 

Vega Alta. — In the northern part of the island 
about 35 kilometres from San Juan on a branch 
of the American railway. Sugar cane, fruits, cof- 
fee, and tobacco are raised. Population about 
9,000. 

Vega Baja. — A short distance west of Vega 
Alta on the main line of the American railway 
and the Manati-Bayamon road. Tobacco and 
coffee are raised, but the principal industry is 
fruit culture. Population about 13,000. 

Vieques, — A small island a short distance off 
the eastern coast. The industries are cattle-rais- 
ing and sugar cane cultivation. The cane is 
ground in the four large mills on the island. The 
island, known also as " Crab Island," is about 



TOWNS AND MUNICIPALITIES 105 

seventeen and one-quarter miles in length by two 
and one-half miles wide. Population about 
11,000. 

Yabucoa. — Near the coast at the southeastern 
extremity of the island on the main road to Guay- 
ama. Sugar, rum, cattle, and cheese are the 
principal products. Population about 18,000. 

Yauco, — In the northwestern part of the island 
on the American railway and the road from 
Ponce to San German. Sugar and coffee are the 
main industries of the district. Near the town 
is located a huge sugar-mill, the " Guanica Cen- 
tral." The sugar is shipped from the nearby 
port of Guanica about seven miles from Yauco. 
Guanica was the first landing place of the Ameri- 
can troops under General Miles, who disembarked 
his forces here on July 25, 1898. Population 
about 32,000. 



CHAPTER IX 



PEOPLE AND CUSTOMS 



The traveller who is familiar with the quaint cus- 
toms, odd ways, and picturesque garb of other 
West Indian islands and Spanish-American coun- 
tries will be disappointed in Porto Rico. 

The Porto Ricans have few local or unique 
habits and no national costume, and many of the 
interesting mannerisms and Spanish-American 
customs have been destroyed by the Americanisa- 
tion of the island. The coquettish, gaudy turbans 
of the other islands have given place to ugly hats 
or slovenly-tied bandanas. Flowing, stiffly- 
starched skirts, silken " foulards," short-sleeved 
" camisas," rebosas, and mantillas are no longer 
in evidence, and even the beautiful silken shawls 
worn by the women of Havana, Central and South 
America, and San Domingo are scarcely ever seen 
on Porto Rican shoulders. The inevitable fan is 
used quite as much as in Cuba or other Latin 
countries, however, and the native people have 
the same habit of sitting in their " salas " that 
104 



PEOPLE AND CUSTOMS 105 

open on the street, and the young ladies are still 
surrounded with the same hedge of Duennas and 
formality as in other Spanish lands. When the 
band plays in the Plaza and " all the world " 
comes forth to promenade or sit about, one may 
see far more of the typical Porto Ricans than at 
any other time or place. Unfortunately the truly 
elite do not take part in the " pasear," but still 
one may obtain a fairly good idea of the types, 
blood, and dress of the masses at this time. The 
Porto Ricans are a much-mixed race, in which 
the Spanish and Indian blood predominates. In 
the interior the bulk of the people are of pure 
Spanish descent and the poor whites or " Jiba- 
ros " constitute the greater portion of the in- 
habitants of the island. Near the coast and in 
the larger cities, however, there are large num- 
bers of negroes, both native born and from the 
French, British, and Danish islands, and every 
shade and mixture of colour may be seen. To the 
casual observer there seems to be no colour line, 
but in their home life and social functions there 
is comparatively little mingling of whites and 
blacks. 

At the larger clubs Americans, Porto Ricans, 



106 PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

and other nationalities mingle, but still there is 
an underlying aloofness, and Anglo-Saxon and 
Latin usually " flock by themselves," while even 
among the Americans there are numerous cliques 
and " sets," and far less wholesome, open-hearted, 
good-fellowship than one would expect among 
Americans in a foreign land. 

In addition to the large clubs and those which 
are preeminently American, there are Porto Rican 
clubs, Spanish clubs, and ladies' clubs. 

There are many pure Spanish people in Porto 
Rico, and the bulk of the business and many of 
the largest plantations are in the hands of Span- 
iards. The Spaniards are smart, thrifty, business 
men, and it must be confessed that they are the 
mainstay of the retail and wholesale business in 
Porto Rico and that without them the island 
would fare ill indeed. Chinamen and other 
Orientals are conspicuous by their absence, and 
the Syrian, Armenian, and Hebrew have not as 
yet invaded the island. It is possible that there 
are pawnshops in Porto Rico, but the author 
never saw one, and the sign of the three balls is 
nowhere visible; possibly the Porto Ricans never 
have anything worth pawning or perhaps they 



PEOPLE AND CUSTOMS 107 

are never sufficiently in want to require the serv- 
ices of an " uncle." 

Apparently the Porto Ricans love noise, for 
San Juan is the noisiest spot I have ever seen, 
and the other towns — and even the small villages 
— are almost as bad. The clang of trolley cars, 
the rattle and roar of carts and drays, the honk 
of auto horns, the jangle of gongs on carriages, 
the roaring of open mufflers, and the screams and 
calls of itinerant vendors all combine to create 
a perfect babel of sound, which continues from 
dawn to midnight without cessation. 

By riding, driving, or walking along the Mili- 
tary Road that leads out from San Juan through 
Santurce one may see many types, and here and 
there customs and manners peculiar to the island. 
Country men and boys riding their nervous, quick- 
stepping little ponies and squatted on the huge 
basket-panniers slung on either side of the saddle ; 
drays and carts, with one horse in the shafts 
and the other drawing on a rope at one side; 
vendors of all sorts, with vegetables, fruits, eggs, 
sweet-meats, and live fowl; some pushing a home- 
made wheelbarrow loaded with baskets of goods ; 
others carrying great native baskets on their arms 



108 PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

and crying their wares in raucous tones; others 
with enormous push-carts loaded with cocoanuts 
or vegetables, and here and there a man or 
woman carrying a tray or basket on the head. 

Near the sea and in the larger rivers the visitor 
may sometimes see the native fishermen wading 
waist deep and throwing their cast-nets with un- 
erring aim, or one may even be fortunate enough 
to see the queer wattled and thatched huts of the 
fishermen perched on stilts in the middle of stream 
or bay. 

In many of the interior and out-lying towns a 
few native Porto Rican customs still prevail. 
Hat sellers may be seen carrying a pole across 
their shoulders, with either end hung with great 
bundles of native-made hats ; sometimes a man 
may be seen carrying water pails or other objects 
on crude shoulder yokes; occasionally one may 
see a native pounding corn or rice in a great 
wooden mortar or may catch a glimpse of women 
busily plaiting palm-leaf hats or netting ham- 
mocks. 

The Porto Ricans have many native industries 
besides hat and hammock making. The women 
are experts at fine needlework and produce mar- 



PEOPLE AND CUSTOMS 109 

vellously delicate and beautiful embroidery and 
drawn-work, which always find a ready sale. The 
men are quick to learn a trade, and are often 
expert mechanics, skilful carpenters, clever arti- 
sans, and excellent masons. In concrete work 
they produce! wonderful results, and the native- 
made Porto Rican tiles and mosaics are highly 
artistic and ornamental. 

The Porto' Rican has considerable inventive 
ability, and one often sees home-made push- 
carts, chairs, furniture, and other objects that 
are really wonderfully well made and cleverly de- 
signed. The native musical instruments are well 
worthy of study. The queer little guitars and 
mandolins made from hollowed wood or cala- 
bashes; the home-made flutes and pipes, and 
queerest of all the calabashes or gourds, with a 
roughened surface, over which steel wires are 
rubbed, are all invariably used at the native 
dances and often in the city orchestras as well. 

Porto Rico has also produced numerous au- 
thors of both prose and verse ; several noteworthy 
poets ; historians of international fame, and some 
wonderful artists whose work has received recog- 
nition in the Paris salon. As a race the Porto 



110 PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT; 

Ricans are far superior to the natives of many of 
the Spanish- American countries or the other West 
Indies, and were they given one-half the oppor- 
tunities and encouragement which they deserve 
they would prove a people of which any country 
might well be proud. 

Even as it is progress and improvement are 
everywhere in evidence. On every hand the old 
is giving place to the new, and while the civilisa- 
tion of four centuries ago is stiU seen side by side 
with that of to-day, yet it is but a question of a 
few years before the quaint old ways will be 
crowded out, destroyed, and forgotten. 



CHAPTER X 

GEOGRAPHY, GEOLOGY, AND CLEMATE 

PoETo Rico, the smallest of the Greater Antilles 
and the most eastern of the group, has an area 
of about 3,606 square miles. In shape it is almost 
a perfect parallelogram, with a length of nearly 
one hundred miles and a breadth of about thirty- 
five miles. The entire surface of the island, 
save a narrow coastal plain on the north 
and a somewhat wider plain on the south, 
is a mass of mountains, ridges, hills, and peaks 
interspersed with deep valleys, high table-lands, 
precipitous canons or ravines, and a few small 
interior plains. The highest mountains reach 
an altitude of nearly four thousand feet, the 
highest peak being "El Yunque " (the anvil), 
3,700 feet in height, near the eastern end of the 
island. This lofty peak is the termination of the 
Luquillo range, which forms the eastern range of 
the main divide of the island known as the 
Cordilleras, and which has an average altitude of 
about twenty-five hundred feet. From this main 

111 



112 PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

central ridge, or backbone, the numerous spurs, 
minor ridges, and isolated peaks extend to north 
and south, ending in abrupt slopes a few miles 
from the coast. Although geographically the 
Cordilleras range is said to form the main divide, 
yet the mountains are so broken, so irregular, and 
so interspersed with valleys and ravines that it is 
difficult for the observer to say just where one 
range of mountains begins and another ends. 
In fact there are several ranges of mountains 
known as the Sierra de Cayey, which extends from 
the southwestern coast towards the centre of the 
island ; the Cordillera Central, near the centre of 
the island, and the Cabezas de San Juan, at the 
extreme northeastern extremity. All of these 
mountains are of mixed volcanic and sedimentary 
formation, consisting of tufa, gneiss, hornblende, 
and a peculiar conglomerate of volcano bombs, 
lava, and tufa. Near the coasts and at various 
elevations, usually of less than two hundred feet, 
are extensive deposits of compact limestone of the 
Cretaceous period, while in many isolated locali- 
ties in the interior and on numerous portions of 
the coast are large areas of aeolian limestone, ele- 



GEOGRAPHY, GEOLOGY, CLIMATE 11^ 

vated coral reefs, and lime-cementer' sand similar 
to the Bermuda limestone. 

The island is well watered by several large 
rivers, numerous small streams, and innumerable 
rivulets, which during dry weather become mere 
rills of water trickling through stony beds, but 
which, after a heavy rain, become raging, foam- 
ing torrents. In many places there are extensive 
limestone caves, and a number of the rivers dis- 
appear in the ground, pass through subterranean 
channels, and reappear at some distance beyond. 
In the higher portions of the island the decom- 
position of the rock has resulted in extensive de- 
posits of tough, sticky, scarlet, or orange clay, 
often 100 feet in depth. This clay is almost 
impervious to water and serves to prevent the 
erosive action of the rains on the mountainsides, 
and this protection has resulted in large areas 
of mountain land being exceptionally adapted to 
the cultivation of various agricultural products. 
Near the coast and in the valleys the streams and 
rains have left heavy deposits of alluvial soil, 
which is very fertile and upon which splendid 
crops may be grown. The virgin fertility of 
Porto Rico is proven by the fact that for nearly 



114 PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

four hundred years various exhaustive crops have 
been raised with but little or no fertiliser, and yet 
to-day the soil is still capable of producing enor- 
mous crops, and seems to be far from exhausted. 
Although situated within the tropics and properly 
considered a tropical island, yet Porto Rico is far 
from typically tropical in appearance. The na- 
tive growth of timber has been almost entirely 
destroyed, and only in a few isolated localities 
does the visitor find tropical forests which are so 
typical of many of the West Indian islands and 
which add so much to the strangeness, charm, 
and beauty of the tropics. For mile after mile 
one may ride across Porto Rico and never see a 
wild native tree of any size, and one may tour 
the island from end to end without finding the 
damp, rank, cool, and dripping " high woods " 
of the West Indian mountains. In many places 
the scenery is decidedly like that of the temperate 
zone, and in a great many localities not a single 
palm, banana, or other distinctly tropical tree is 
visible. Although the extensive denudation of the 
island may have reduced the rainfall, yet there is 
no lack of moisture in most parts of Porto Rico, 
the average rainfall for the entire island being 



GEOGRAPHY, GEOLOGY, CLIMATE DL,15 

some seventy-six inches. In certain mountainous 
districts the rainfall may be as great as 200 inches, 
while on some portions of the southern coast it 
may fall as low as 45 inches. This, compared 
with the excessive rainfall of three hundred inches 
or more, which is common in many other 
tropical countries, seems very light, but through- 
out the greater part of the island it is 
ample, and the ground is constantly damp. 
There are no well-defined dry and wet seasons 
in Porto Rico, but during the winter the rains are 
lighter than in summer, the monthly average in- 
creasing steadily from February until May, after 
which the monthly variation is very slight 
until September or October, when the maximum 
monthly fall is reached. In the northern parts 
of the island and extending southward over about 
two-thirds of the entire area, an abundant rain- 
fall may be looked for at all seasons, and droughts 
or prolonged dry spells are very rare. On the 
southern coast, on the other hand, the rainfall is 
very irregular, and rainless periods of several 
months' duration frequently occur. The Porto 
Rican rains are often extremely heavy, but as 
a rule they are of short duration. The majority 



116 PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

of showers last but a few minutes, l)ut during 
these few minutes the rain descends in sheets, and 
as one shower frequently follows another in rapid 
succession, the result is the same as if it was a 
steady and prolonged downpour. During the 
spring and summer it is not unusual for the 
weather to be unsettled, cloudy, and showery for 
several days in succession, and frequently the rain 
falls more or less continuously day and night for 
a week at a time. On the whole, however, the 
daily rainfall is not great, although four to five 
inches in 24j hours is of frequent occurrence, and 
daily precipitations of 20 to 23 inches have been 
recorded dqring the passage of hurricanes or 
severe storms. The average temperature of the 
island is not excessive, the average annual tem- 
perature of the entire island being 76 degrees, 
with a mean winter temperature of 73 degrees, 
and a mean summer temperature of 79 degrees. 
It must be borne in mind, however, that many of 
the elevated mountain towns have a comparatively 
cool climate, with a low average temperature, 
and that this greatly reduces the average for the 
entire island, and for this reason the visitor to 
Porto Rico should not expect to find San Juan, 



GEOGRAPHY, GEOLOGY, CLIMATE 117 

Ponce, or anj of the coastal towns either cool 
or invigorating. The average official winter tem- 
perature for these localities is 75 degrees, with a 
summer average of 81, but the mercury often 
reaches the nineties during the day and the nights 
are far from being as cool and refreshing as in 
the smaller West Indian islands. In fact, Porto 
Rico is a rather unpleasantly warm spot, in the 
coastal towns, although the constant trade winds 
and sea breezes make the heat far from oppres- 
sive. The air is quite damp, and while excessive 
humidity is rare, yet it is often sufficient to prove 
oppressive and to cause a feeling of extreme lassi- 
tude. At San Juan the average humidity for the 
entire year is 78 per cent, for the winter 75 per 
cent, and for summer 81 per cent. This Is far 
greater than in the more densely wooded islands, 
where the moisture is condensed and falls as rain 
before the humidity becomes oppressive, but it is 
far less than in many places in the tropics or even 
in the temperate zone. 

Although Porto Rico is situated in the hurri- 
cane belt, yet destructive storms are of rare oc- 
currence. On but three occasions in forty years 
have hurricanes crossed the island, namely, in 



118 PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

the months of August, 1891, August, 1893, and 
August, 1899, the latter being by far the most 
destructive storm on record in Porto Rico. 
Thunderstorms are of frequent occurrence, but 
they are of a mild and almost harmless type as 
a rule, and while the electrical display is brilliant, 
serious damage seldom occurs from their presence. 
On the whole Porto Rico may be said to have 
a healthy, pleasant, equable, and not excessively 
hot or moist climate. It is fertile, well watered, 
and so varied in elevation, soil, and temperature 
that almost any desired climate may be found, 
with the exception of the frigid wintry weather 
of temperate climates. It is densely inhabited, 
but vast areas are uncultivated; it is free from 
volcanic disturbances, severe earthquakes, or de- 
structive storms, and while geographically in the 
tropics, yet it is free from many of the disad- 
vantages of the tropics, and if the truth were told, 
many of the tropic's charms and attractions as 
well. 



CHAPTER XI 

AGRICULTURE, RESOURCES, ANI> OPPORTUNITIES 

For 400 years Porto Rico has been primarily 
and principally an agricultural country. To-day 
the million and more inhabitants are nearly all 
engaged in agriculture or in vocations, trades, or 
work related to or depending upon agriculture, 
and as a result many of the natural resources of 
the island have been overlooked or neglected. 
Although within the tropics the variety of soils, 
variations in temperatures and rainfalls, and the 
mountainous character of the island render the 
raising of many Northern products both possible 
and profitable. In the early days and until quite 
recently little attention was given to any but the 
tropical products, such as sugar cane, coffee, and 
tobacco, but within the last few years much at- 
tention has been given to raising fruit and other 
crops. Although the greater portion of the island 
has been completely stripped of its native forest 
growth, yet in some sections considerable virgin 
forest still remains, and several of the localities 
119 



120 PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

have been wisely held by the Government as forest 
reserves. The cleared land has been for many 
years cultivated over and over again without the 
addition of humus, fertiliser, or enrichment of 
any kind, and as a result many of the foothills 
between the level coastal plains and the mountains 
have become very barren and sterile, but with 
proper care and fertilisation there is scarcely a 
spot in Porto Rico which will not produce abun- 
dant crops of some sort. The island is so densely 
populated and the population is so largely rural 
that agriculture must always be the mainstay of 
the people and every effort should be made to 
improve conditions and to encourage agricultural 
pursuits and the raising of new, valuable, and 
lucrative crops. For many years sugar was the 
principal crop of the Porto Ricans. The first 
mill was erected in 1548 and by 1581 1,1 mills 
were in operation, with an aggregate output of 
187 tons of sugar annually. The methods of 
cultivation and manufacture were, however, very 
crude, and until the American invasion little 
changes had been made in this and other indus- 
tries. Irrigation was unknown, poor varieties of 
cane were grown, the cane was handled by primj- 



AGRICULTURE AND RESOURCES ISl 

tive and expensive methods, the land was prepared 
and the cultivation carried on with crude wooden 
ploughs and hand-hoes and machetes, and a great 
deal of the cane was crushed in the simplest of 
mills, driven by the power of plodding oxen. To- 
day the huge steam and electrically-driven " cen- 
trals " contain the latest and most highly per- 
fected automatic machinery; cultivation and 
ploughing is done with great steam ploughs, the 
best possible varieties of cane are grown, trained 
scientists and chemists are employed, and the cane 
and sugar are shipped and transported in railway 
trains, auto trucks, and trams. On the southern 
coast the broad level cane lands have been pro- 
vided with an elaborate and extensive irrigation 
system, and there is no reason why the Porto 
Rican sugar industry should not continue to prove 
the most lucrative of all the island's industries, 
were it not for the tariff system now in vogue. 
Under the former administrations, whereby Porto 
Rico sugar was admitted duty free and other 
sugars were dutiable, the Porto Ricans were pro- 
tected, business boomed, and the island was on 
the crest of a wave of prosperity such as it had 
never known. With the removal of the tariff 



122 PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

poor Porto Rico was obliged to compete with other 
countries and with the European beet sugars, and 
as a result the sugar planters have become pov- 
erty-stricken and discouraged, many estates have 
shut down, others have gone into practical bank- 
ruptcy, and the financial condition of the island 
is daily becoming worse and worse. 

Long before the decline of the sugar industry, 
tobacco and coffee had become important factors 
in the island's prosperity ; but within the last few 
years the tobacco industry has reached a higher 
state of development than ever before. Although 
the amount of soil adapted to the cultivation of 
superior tobacco is limited, yet by improved 
methods and proper care a great deal of tobacco is 
produced, which is, in the opinion of many, the 
equal of any of the Cuban tobacco. In addition 
to filler tobacco of high grade, a vast amount of 
excellent wrapper leaf is produced under shade 
formed by cheese-cloth stretched over the fields. 
If the production and value of the tobacco crops 
continue to increase at the present rate it will 
soon exceed any other product in importance. 

Coffee is also a very valuable product, which is 
yearly increasing in importance. At the time of 



AGRICULTURE AND RESOURCES 123 

the American occupation coffee had become the 
principal agricultural industry, for under Span- 
ish laws coffee was a favoured article of export, 
and was sent in large quantities to Spain, Cuba, 
and other countries. With the change in owner- 
ship of the island the coffee growers were very 
hard hit by the elimination of the bounty which 
existed under Spanish dominion. Almost imme- 
diately the Porto Rican coffee growers were 
obliged to compete with Brazil and other coffee- 
producing countries, while their best markets in 
Spain and Cuba were shut off by the tariffs. 
Moreover, as the Porto Rican coffee was prac- 
tically unknown in American markets, its sale in 
our cities was problematical, and a demand for it 
had to be built up. In addition to these handicaps, 
a disastrous hurricane swept Porto Rico in 
August, 1899, just before the harvesting of the 
coffee crop, and causing the loss of the crop, the 
wreckage of many plantations, and the actual 
washing away of a great deal of the fertile coffee- 
producing soil. So great was the loss occasioned 
by business conditions and damage by storm that 
many of the best plantations were sold for far 
below tlieir value or were abandoned entirely. So 



IM PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

great was the business depression and actual want 
brought about by the ruin of the coffee industry 
that several million dollars worth of supplies 
were sent into the interior by the United States 
Gover-nment in order to relieve the suffering of 
the people and to prevent actual starvation. 
Gradually, however, the coffee industry is improv- 
ing, and year by year the demand is greater, the 
production larger, and to-day the coffee crop bids 
fair to resume its old-time importance, and has 
already reached third place in the leading pro- 
ductions of the island. 

Before Porto Rican coffee meets with a large 
and ready sale in our markets, great improvement 
must be made in its growth and preparation. In 
many districts the trees grow practically wild, 
with but little care or attention and overgrown 
with parasites, choked by weeds, and surrounded 
by brush, trees, and jungles of tangled vines and 
bushes. Not only are the trees neglected, but 
the berries are gathered, cleaned, dried, and pre- 
pared with no regard to sanitary conditions, 
cleanliness, or decency. It is a common sight to 
see coffee drying in the sun on half-cured cow- 
hides laid upon the open streets and with chickens, 



AGRICULTURE AND RESOURCES 125 

dogs, and goats wandering over and through it at 
will. In other places the beans are spread upon 
doorsteps, floors, or similar places, and naked 
children and various household animals use it for 
a playground or resting-place. In one case I 
noticed a shed some twenty feet in length and 
within this building tobacco was being stripped 
and tied, while at the other end coff^ee was being 
assorted, winnowed, and packed. Under such 
conditions it is hardly surprising that much of 
the Porto Rican coffee tastes more like tobacco 
than the real beverage, and that many people are 
prejudiced against it. Of course, all Porto Rican 
coffee is not treated in this slip-shod manner, and 
many growers are as careful and cleanly in their 
work as any one could wish; but nevertheless it 
will require time and care to build up such a repu- 
tation that the island coffee may successfully com- 
pete with the coffee of Brazil, Venezuela, or Cen- 
tral America. 

'Fruit has also become a very important product 
of Porto Rico, and many portions of the island 
are wonderfully adapted to fruit culture. Under 
the Spanish regime practically no fruit was 
grown, and that produced was for home consump- 



126 PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

tion. With the coming of Americans a great deal 
of attention has been given to fruit, especially 
citrus fruits, and the industry has grown with 
remarkable rapidity. All of the citrus fruits 
grow readily in Porto Rico, and the land of the 
northern coastal plain is particularly well adapted 
to oranges, grape fruit, etc. The Porto Rican 
grape fruit is considered the best of all in the 
American markets, and a number of Americans 
own large and thriving orchards, and have built 
up a large and lucrative fruit export business. 
Pineapples are also extensively grown, and sev- 
eral canneries are in operation, but as a whole the 
possibilities of fruit have hardly been touched, 
and various tropical fruits might be raised and 
marketed or canned on the island with profit. 
Cotton was at one time a most important Porto 
Rican product, and during the Civil War in the 
United States the cotton industry assumed a lead- 
ing place among Porto Rican resources. With 
the close of the war and the dropping cotton 
prices, cotton growing was gradually abandoned, 
and while sea island cotton may still be produced 
at a profit, yet little attention is given to it, as 
other crops bring larger and quicker returns and 



AGRICULTURE AND RESOURCES 127 

considerable care, industry, and careful cultiva- 
tion are required to produce profitable crops. 
Many fibre-producing plants grow freely in Porto 
Rico, and there is little doubt that the produc- 
tion of sisal hemp would prove very remunerative 
in the more barren and dry sections of the island, 
as along the southern coast. Although experi- 
ments have proven that sisal will thrive and can 
be produced at a profit on the island, yet the cul- 
tivation of the plant does not appeal to Porto 
Rican farmers, and no doubt it will take a number 
of years to educate the natives to the value and 
importance of growing more lucrative crops than 
their old favourite sugar cane. 

It is a very difficult matter to wean a sugar- 
growing community from cane, a fact that has 
been demonstrated in other West Indian islands; 
but the future prosperity of Porto Rico depends 
in large measure upon the production of num- 
erous crops, which have as yet been almost un- 
tried. Even garden vegetables for home con- 
sumption are scarcely grown, although certain 
native vegetables are produced everywhere, and 
in some localities all our Northern vegetables are 
grown with little effort. 



128 PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

Cocoanuts are profitable and are produced in 
large quantities, but they require eight to ten 
years to reach maturity. Cocoa is not grown, 
rubber has not as yet been produced, and aside 
from the three staples, — coffee, tobacco, and 
sugar, — and the. various fruits, practically noth- 
ing has been cultivated for export or on a large 
and practical scale. 

There are still vast opportunities for scientific 
and up-to-date agriculturalists to make money 
in Porto Rico, but the land is very high in price, 
there is a great deal of competition, and only by 
the use of a large amount of capital and the latest 
methods can one succeed in the island if fruit, to- 
bacco, coffee, or other crops are attempted. Al- 
though Porto Rico has been an American posses- 
sion for a number of years, yet no accurate and 
exhaustive survey has ever been made, no scien- 
tific and geological exploration has been carried 
out, and the natural resources and riches of the 
country are less known than those of many other 
far-distant countries, over which we have no con- 
trol and in which we have no real interest. 

Cattle and horses are raised to some extent in 
many localities, but large dairy farms, blooded 



AGRICULTURE AND RESOURCES 129 

cattle, good beef steers, heavy horses, mules, or 
donkeys are almost unknown. There are a few 
poultry farms on the island, several apiaries are 
flourishing, and here and there one finds truck 
gardens, but there is a far greater demand for 
such things than can be supplied, and any one of 
these industries will prove profitable, if carried 
out intelligently, assiduously, and scientifically. 

The fisheries of the island have been woefully 
neglected. About Porto Rico the sea teems with 
fish of many varieties ; the large West Indian 
lobster lurks in crevices among the rocks on every 
coast; edible shellfish abound; oysters are found 
in several localities ; crawfish are found in the 
rivers, and terrapin are common, and yet it is 
next to impossible to obtain fresh sea food in the 
San Juan markets. The native fishermen are 
shiftless, improvident, and use ancient and crude 
apparatus ; but with modern fish-nets, properly 
equipped boats, pounds, and a systematic fishery 
the island could be supplied with an abundance of 
fresh fish, which would meet with a ready sale. 

In one class of tropical products Porto Rico 
is sadly lacking. Dye woods, cabinet woods, and 
timber for building purposes are not available, 



130 PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

and it is a great pity that neither the Porto 
Ricans nor the Americans have seen fit to plant 
valuable and useful trees to take the place of the 
original forest growth. 

The mineral wealth of Porto Rico has been 
practically untouched, and yet there are extensive 
deposits of valuable ores. Gold, silver, iron, 
bismuth, lead, tin, nickel,, platinum, and copper 
are all found and in many places the deposits are 
large, rich, easy of access, and near transporta- 
tion. Copper ore, running as high as 65 per cent 
exists in many localities; native copper has been 
found in various parts of the island ; iron is abun- 
dant, and gold and silver, running as high as $400 
per ton exist in certain sections of the island. 
Many of the rivers carry considerable gold, and 
the natives frequently wash out several dollars 
worth a day with very crude methods. One min- 
ing company has already done considerable work 
on the island. This company controls numerous 
promising veins and outcrops of copper, gold, sil- 
ver, and other ores, and shafts several hundred 
feet in depth have been sunk. Ore has been 
mined and shipped, and a sluice has recently been 
installed, and as much as $200 a day has been 



AGRICULTURE AND RESOURCES 13.1 

cleaned up in this way. This is but a beginning, 
and no doubt in the near future the mineral 
wealth of the island will be exploited ; prospectors 
will make a proper exploration of its mountains 
and valleys, and Puerto Rico will become " Rico " 
in the full sense of the word when the American 
public awakens to the wealth, fertility, and nat- 
ural advantages of our little West Indian colony. 



CHAPTER XII 

GOVERNMENT AND POLITICS 

The government of Porto Rico is vested in the 
Governor, appointed by the President of the 
United States, and the Legislative Assembly. The 
Governor is given the power to grant pardons 
and reprieves, to veto acts of the Legislature, etc. 
He also appoints all the Judges of the District 
Courts, Justices of the Peace, and other minor 
officials, and is the commander-in-chief of the 
Insular Police force. In addition, the President 
may assign other duties and powers to the Gov- 
ernor, provided they are not at variance with the 
law or the Organic Act. 

The legislative power is vested in the Legisla- 
tive Assembly of two houses, — the Executive 
Council and the House of Delegates. The former 
consists of 11 members, at least five of whom 
must be native Porto Ricans. All members are 
appointed for a term of four years by the Presi- 
dent of the United States, with the consent and 
approval of the United States Senate. Six of 
133 



GOVERNMENT AND POLITICS 133 

the 11 members are also heads of the Executive 
Departments, namely, the Secretary of Porto 
Rico, the Attorney General, Auditor of Porto 
Rico, Treasurer, Commissioner of Interior, and 
Commissioner of Education. 

The House of Delegates consists of 35 members 
elected every two years by duly qualified voters of 
the island, there being five delegates for each of 
the seven insular districts. 

Such a form of government and legislature 
would no doubt prove very satisfactory and fair, 
provided it was free from intrigue, graft, and 
dishonesty. Unfortunately the insular politics 
are far from clean, and political influence and 
personal profit play a large part in island af- 
fairs. A large proportion of the Porto Rican 
public is ignorant, apathetic, and completely 
under the thumbs of unprincipled politicians and 
party leaders. The Latin-American is a bom 
diplomat and politician, and no Anglo-Saxon 
party leader can hope to keep pace with the 
smooth and suave machinations of the Spanish- 
American politicians. Add to this the fact that a 
great many of the American officials are unable 
to speak or understand Spanish, that many of 




134 PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

them are men appointed merely to pay off po- 
litical debts, and that as a rule the American un- 
derestimates and looks down upon the natives, 
and we may understand why and how Porto Rican 
politics have reached the state in which we find 
them. 

There are two principal parties on the island, ^ 
known as the " Republican " and " Unionist ^^ 
parties. In reality the so-called Republicans 
have nothing in common with our American Re- 
publicans. In a broad way the insular Republi- 
cans are the smaller business men, the resident 
Americans, and the coloured population and the 
party as a whole claims to be pro-American. The > 
Unionist party, on the other hand, consists of the I 
wealthy Porto Ricans, the resident Spaniards, \ 
and the large business interests. A large propor- // 
tion of this party are white men, and the party \ 
as a whole is considered anti- American. Swinging j 
first one way and then the other and divided be-__y 
tween the two parties, is the great bulk of the 
population, — the mestizo and mulatto people, the 
peons and the working class of the island. The 
leaders of the parties are educated, brainy, in- 
telligent men, and born politicians, and by hook 



GOVERNMENT AND POLITICS 135 

or by crook they twist the bulk of the people about 
their fingers. It is doubtful if either party really 
knows what it wants or what it stands for, and 
sifted down and examined critically the differences 
between the two are really negligible. As far as 
real anti- or pro-American feeling is concerned, 
neither party favours all phases of American 
legislation and control, and neither party en- 
tirely disapproves of our policies. Much blame 
is placed upon certain Governors for having 
shown favours or partisanship with one or 
the other of the parties, but I doubt if 
this is of any great moment. . The whole trouble 
is that, like all other Spanish- American races, 
the Porto Ricans must find recreation and relief 
in political intrigue, and being either too peace- 
able or too patriotic to revolt, as do their cousins 
in other Spanish- American countries, they amuse 
themselves with the more harmless but equally ef- 
fective methods of playing politics, buying votes, 
and making fiery and threatening speeches. At 
times the Porto Rican parties have split, — much 
as our own parties are divided unto themselves, — 
and at times a so-called " Democratic party '* ap- 
pears. It is practically hopeless to try and pre- 



136 PORTO HICO PAST AND PRESENT 

vent dishonesty and graft in politics in a country 
where the great mass of people are poor, ignorant, 
illiterate, and apathetic, and not until the Porto 
Ricans themselves are aroused to the importance 
of clean politics and the elimination of unprin- 
cipled leaders, dishonest politicians, and " heel- 
ers," will the free vote of the Porto Ricans be 
more than a farce. 

One hears a great deal about the ill-feeling of 
the natives against Americans. As a matter of 
fact, there is sl certain amount of this feeling, 
especially in certain sections, but the feeling is 
against the American Government and Americans 
as a people and not against Americans individ- 
ually. 

It must be remembered that Porto Rico was 
becoming extremely prosperous, men and firms 
were becoming wealthy, lands had increased in 
value, and immense sums had been invested in 
machinery and equipments under our protective 
tariff on sugar, and the Porto Ricans had been 
led to believe that their interestc would be pro- 
tected. Without warning the tariff was removed 
and the Porto Rican planters, unable to compete 
with Cuba and other localities, were forced into 



GOVERNMENT AND POLITICS 137 

bankruptcy and enormous losses, and to-day the 
island is in a very discouraging financial condi- 
tion, with no prospect of improvement. It is 
scarcely strange, therefore, that the islanders 
should feel but little gratitude towards a govern- 
ment or a people who have brought this ruin 
upon them, and, moreover, many of the officials 
we have sent out to Porto Rico have been men 
of little principle or ignorant, prejudiced, dissi- 
pated, or in other ways a disgrace to their coun- 
try and their flag, and totally unfit to handle 
local conditions or affairs. Much might also be 
said of the intrigues, deceptions, dishonesty, and 
guile of native politicians, who are past masters 
of graft and diplomacy, and by hook or crook 
pull the wool over the eyes of natives and Ameri- 
cans alike, and wield a power akin to that of 
Tammany at its worst. 

A history of the political situation in Porto 
Rico would fill a volume, and would prove inter- 
esting reading, and were the truth known it would 
bring a blush of shame to the cheeks of every 
fair-minded and honest American. 

Although it would probably be unwise to grant 
full citizenship to all the native Porto Ricans, a 



138 PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

vast number of the people are as intelligent, as 
capable, and far more versed in the duties of citi- 
zenship than the majority of Americans. At any 
rate, we owe it to these people to give them some 
standing; they welcomed us with open arms when 
we delivered them from Spanish misrule; they 
have obeyed our laws, have been loyal, peaceful, 
and true, and yet to-day they find themselves at 
the mercy of sharpers and grafters, — not Ameri- 
cans, not United States citizens, but merely "peo- 
ple of Porto Rico," — a race and nation apart, 
ruled by aliens,' mismanaged, and with an execu- 
tive assembly wherein the majority are Americans ; 
but on the whole steadfastly patriotic, true to the 
flag, and ready to send their young men to fight 
for the very people and the very administration 
which has robbed them of their chief source of 
revenue and reduced them from affluence to pov- 
erty. 



CHAPTER XIII 

HEALTH AND SANITATION 

When the Americans took possession of Porto 
Rico it was one of the dirtiest, filthiest, aijd most 
unsanitary of countries. Lack of adequate water 
supply, carelessness, and an utter ignorance and 
disregard for the simplest rules of hygiene and 
sanitation had made the island a menace to human 
health, life, and comfort. There is no greater 
monument or more lasting proof of the triumph 
of modern sanitation and science than the present 
condition of Porto Rico as compared to its past 
state. To-day Porto Rico is one of the cleanest, 
the most sanitary, and the healthiest of countries, 
and it is doubtful if another city in the world 
can compare with San Juan for cleanliness and 
health. Even in the outlying districts nearly 
every respectable house is provided with modern 
plumbing. Drainage and sewerage are excellent, 
a pure water supply is maintained, and garbage, 
rubbish, and similar things are removed daily. A 
short time ag:o the island was visited by an epi- 
139 



140 PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

demic of Bubonic Plague, but it was soon under 
control, and a war of extermination was waged 
upon the rats, with a result that these vermin have 
been practically exterminated. Cocoanut trees 
throughout the island were provided with bands of 
tin to prevent the rats from seeking refuge among 
the leaves and nuts ; all vessels were compelled to 
place large iron circles or discs about their hawsers 
and were removed to open water during the night ; 
traps, poisons, and the mongoose were brought 
into play, and if the plague ever is introduced 
into the island again there will be little danger of 
its spreading by means of rat carriers. The 
lepers, which are usually in evidence and are a 
pitiable and disgusting sight in many tropical 
communities, are safely and comfortably isolated 
on an island in the harbour. People suffering 
from the disgusting " yaws," elephantiasis, and 
similar diseases are seldom or never seen, and even 
cripples or deformed beggars are conspicuous 
only by their absence. 

After looking through the following tables the 
reader will no doubt be convinced that in Porto 
Rico there is every reason for a reasonably careful 
person to live free from all ills and die of old age. 



HEALTH AND SANITATION 



141 



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sauoq aq; jo sagBasiq 'xj 



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uijis aq^ JO sasBasiQ •IIIA 



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raa;sjfs ^JBuiin-ojmaS aq:; 
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■inajSifs 
aAi?saSip aqj jo sasBasio; 'A 



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subSio aq; jo paBtaaiSifs 
enoAjag aqg jo sasBasrq; 'ij 



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in t- u"5 »o -i-i 1 
mioioioco< 



CDTOOOSOSCS 









142 PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 



SUMMARY OF DEATHS CAUSED BY TRANSMISSIBLE DISEASES 
IN ALL THE TOWNS OF THE ISLAND OF PORTO RICO 
DURING THE FISCAL YEAR ENDING JUNE 30, 1913. 

Disease. No. 

Typhoid fever 164 

Scarlet fever 1 

Diphtheria 39 

18 

27 



Plague . 

Dy-sentery 

Meningitis 

Whooping cough. 

Parotiditis 

Filariasis 

Infantile tetanus. 
Malaria 



Tuberculosis 1 

Glanders 



Leprosy 

Anemia 

Colibacilosis 

Pneumonia 

Syphilis of the skin. 



44 

1 

2 

512 

,005 

611 

3 



Total 4,193 

CASES OF TRANSMISSIBLE DISEASES IN PORTO RICO DURING 
THE FISCAL YEAR ENDING JUNE 30, 1913. 





'd 


i 


03 


.2 




[ - 




.s 


:i 






'3 
1 


1 


^ 
i 


1 


>, 


•aw 








EH^ 


> 


« 


P. 


fi 


^U 


t^^ 


^ 




204 
344 





24 
13 


18 
13 


.... 


7 
6 


1 


14 
16 


833 


South district 


72 


East district 


149 


2 


91 


35 


32 


10 




27 


248 


West district 


154 


2 


46 


26 




11 


3 


2 


160 


North and south district, . . 


548 




37 


31 




13 


1 


30 


905 


East and west district 


308 


4 


137 


61 


32 


21 


3 


29 


408 


Total 


851 


4 


174 


92 


32 


34 


4 


59 


1,313 





s 


ll 


3 


1 




aa 


11 

As 


§1 


il 


North district 


281 
694 
310 
149 


127 
334 

488 
403 


1 
■■3' 


"i 

1 


10 

24 

14 

5 


4 
2 

7 
3 








South district 


7 

6 

40 


1 
4 
1 




East district 


2 


West district 




North and south district.. . 
East and west district 


975 
459 


461 
891 


1 
3 


"2 


34 
19 


6 
10 


7 
46 


1 
5 


'"2** 


Total 


1,434 


1,352 


4 


2 


53 


16 


53 


6 


2 



HEALTH AND SANITATION 143 

SHOWING THE NUMBER OF DEATHS BY MONTHS AND AGES 
DURING THE FISCAL YEAR ENDING JUNE 30, 1913. 





ASB. 


Months. 




S 

is 

few 


o 

(N as 

s >> 


o 


S 

O g 

o >. 


a 

S « 
o >. 

£8 


2 

o >> 


s 


5- 


1912. 
July 


545 
513 
493 
588 
621 
636 

612 
499 
470 
484 
529 
469 


288 
256 
277 
290 
295 
310 

276 
206 
181 
127 
160 
177 


233 
234 
226 
267 
234 
322 

265 

198 
186 
166 
166 
176 


89 
98 
113 
111 
106 
130 

120 
80 
70 
83 
64 
80 


43 
46 
57 
65 
51 
48 

54 

45 
46 
32 
46 

48 


85 
71 
64 
54 
86 
81 

77 
71 
87 
83 
71 
65 


102 
101 
127 
140 
132 
108 

130 
105 
127 
114 
108 
95 


105 
108 
92 
112 
109 
138 

116 
102 
119 
94 
80 
119 


188 


August 

September 

October 

November 

December 

1913. 

January 

February 

March... 

April 


189 
165 
159 
177 
201 

218 
181 
162 
154 


May 


167 


June 


178 






Total 


6,459 


2,843 


2,673 


1,144 


581 


895 


1,389 


1,294 


2,139 





Age.— Continued. 




Months. 


o >. 


a 

fi 


-2 


a 


a 
s ^ 


a . 

li 


s _ 




3 
o 


1912. 
July 


143 
159 
144 
146 
148 
157 

162 
134 
141 
141 
149 
133 


139 
118 
102 
121 
129 
116 

121 

128 
113 
116 
97 
100 


106 
117 
122 
98 
129 
109 

130 
113 
107 
117 
112 
109 


93 

81 

97 

105 

106 

100 

98 
75 
102 
69 
89 
72 


75 
63 
45 
46 
61 
60 

63 
53 
49 
51 
50 
51 


28 
20 
15 
16 
20 
17 

36 
24 
18 
27 
17 
15 


4 
8 

5 
2 
2 

3 
2 
5 
5 
4 
4 


5 
4 

*"*5' 

1 
8 

6 

I 

3 


2,721 


August 

September 

October 

November 

December 

1913. 

January 

February 

March 


2,186 
2,141 
2,328 
2,407 
2,543 

2,487 
2,019 
1,986 
1,866 
1,909 
1,891 


April 


Mky.. :::...::: 






Total 


1,757 


1,400 


1,369 


1,087 


667 


253 


46 


38 


26,034 



144 PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

LEPER COLONY 

The leper colony during the year had under 
treatment 32 inmates, 28 at the beginning of 
the year and four others during the year. Twenty 
of these were men and 12 women, almost all adults 
and coming from different parts of the island. 
Of the total number during the year four died, 
leaving at present in the colony 28 inmates. 
Among the latter there are 18 men, three less than 
20 years, one between 20 and 30 years, three from 
30 to 40 years, 10 from 40 to 60 years, and one 
of 60 years. There are 10 women, one of less 
than 20 years, seven from 20 to 30 years, two 
from 40 to 60 years, and one of 60 years. Of 
the total number of cases treated 10 came from 
San Juan, three from Mayaguez, two from Agua- 
dilla, and one from Humacao, these towns all be- 
ing capitals of districts. From the other towns 
five came from Vega Baja, three from Patillas, and 
one each from Naguabo, Arroyo, Anasco, Baya- 
mon, Cayey, Rio Grande, and La^ Piedras. One 
came also from Valencia, Spain. The number of 
cases remains practically the same from year to 
year. 



HEALTH AND SANITATION 145 

SHOWING BY MONTHS THE NUMBER OF DEATHS DURING 
THE FISCAL YFAR ENDING JUNE 30, 1913, AND THE CON 
JUGAL CONDITION OP THE DECEASED. 



Months. 



Single. 



1912. 
July 



August. . 

Sept 

October. 
Nov. . . 
Dec 



1913. 
Jan.... 
Feb..., 
Marrh . 
April... 
May. . . . 
June . . . 



Total. 



825 

965 

958 

1,008 



921 

797 
750 
725 
768 



fea 



10,162 



796 
764 



823 
953 



910 
689 
674 
569 
620 
658 



Conjugal Condition. 



Married. 



176 
174 
162 
182 

188 
178 



213 
161 
178 
165 
173 
157 



^B 



2,107 



162 
160 
173 
174 
167 
190 



192 
167 
164 
195 

148 
168 



Widows and 
widowers 



2,060 



^a 



791 



168 
135 
134 
142 

158 
146 



157 
135 
148 
143 
135 
135 



Di- 
vorced. 



^ E 



1,7J 



12 



Un- 
known. 



i^a 



24 



2,271 
2,186 
2,141 
2,328 
2,407 
2,543 



2,487 
2,019 
1,986 
1,866 
1,909 
1.891 



26,034 



CHAPTER XIV 

THE INSULAR POLICE SERVICE 

Porto Rico is well policed by a body of men 
known as the Insular Police, comprising 100 
guardsmen, 40 corporals, 15 sergeants, and 66 
district chiefs, and considering the material at 
hand, the few members of this force and the char- 
acter of the country and people, the work of these 
men and their efficiency is remarkable. All the 
police are drawn from the lower classes or peons 
and many are of pronounced negro blood. Un- 
fortunately few speak or understand English, 
and, as the Chief of Police does not speak Span- 
ish, a great) deal is left undone which might be 
more readily accomplished if the members of the 
force were compelled to learn English. It is 
argued that it is impossible to secure men at the 
meagre salary paid the police who are intelligent 
enough to learn English, but I can see no reason 
why the officers should not be given instruction 
and a knowledge of the so-called " official " lan- 
guage should not be made compulsory in order for 
146 



THE INSULAR POLICE SERVICE 147 

the men to remain on the force, at least in the 
towns. The Porto Rican people, even of the low- 
est classes, are neither vicious, quarrelsome, dis- 
honest, or turbulent as a whole, and comparatively 
few police are required to maintain order among 
a large number of natives. Intoxication is un- 
common, the people are far from being total ab- 
stainers, but a Spanish-American considers it a 
disgrace to be seen drunk in public, and if under 
the influence of liquor will remain indoors and out 
of sight until sober. Among themselves the Porto 
Ricans at times quarrel, and even assault and 
murder, but serious felonies are very rare, and 
attacks on foreigners are unknown, and this is 
more apparent when we consider that during the 
year of 1913 only 108 burglaries and 95 murders 
were committed out of a million and more inhabit- 
ants, and not a single case of highway robbery 
was reported. During the strikes of the cigar- 
makers an unusual number of assaults and mur- 
ders occurred, and usually the number of such 
crimes is much less. A very strict and far- 
reaching crusade against carrying concealed 
weapons has been waged, and tons of revolvers, 
knives, brass-knuckles, sword-canes, daggers, 



148 PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

razors, clubs, and miscellaneous weapons have 
been confiscated and destroyed. I was shown 
over thirty-five hundred revolvers, several barrels 
of knives, and a wonderful assortment of 
other weapons, which had been confiscated by 
the police, and it is now very difficult for 
the natives to obtain or carry weapons of 
any sort without being apprehended. Sneak 
thieves are rather common, but their depreda- 
tions are made possible by the carelessness 
of householders, and it is extremely difficult to 
trace or locate them, especially as they confine 
their robberies almost exclusively to money and 
seldom touch jewelry or other personal property. 
On the whole Porto Rico is a very orderly and 
law-abiding place, and no one need fear molesta- 
tion of any sort on the island. The stranger, or 
native, is far safer in any part of Porto Rico than 
in the streets of New York or other American 
cities, and man or woman may travel from one end 
of the island to the other in perfect security either 
during the day or night. 

A total of 7,567 prisoners have served in the 
insular jails and penitentiary during the year. 
Of these, 6,007 were liberated upon expiration of 



THE INSULAR POLICE SERVICE 149 

term, 33 by pardon, and 138 by commutation of 
sentence. The prisoners assigned to labour on 
insular road construction furnished 183,188 days' 
work, which upon a daily wage basis of 50 cents 
represents a value in labour on account of pub- 
lic works of $91,594. On June 30, 1913, there 
were 1,560 persons serving sentence, and of these 
439 were confined in the penitentiary at San 
Juan. 

The inmates of this institution who were avail- 
able for that purpose were employed or received 
instruction in shoemaking, carpentry, tailoring, 
baking, barbering, cooking, and common-school 
work. Work to the value of $1,071.81 was turned 
out by the carpenter shop. Clothing for inmates 
and discharged prisoners and linen for the hospital 
were made by the tailor shop. The shoe shop 
turned out 1,029 pairs of shoes. 

The penitentiary hospital is well provided with 
medical attendance and equipment, and invalids 
receive the best possible medical and surgical 
treatment*. 

The very unsatisfactory conditions due to the 
inadequate building used for a penitentiary still 
exist, although some relief has been afforded dur- 



150 PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

ing the year by the construction of additional 
wards for women and minors. 

The boys' reform school at Mayaguez had 99 
inmates at the close of the fiscal year. Their in- 
struction in common-school studies and industrial 
training has been continued as in the past. Addi- 
tional funds allotted during the past year have 
enabled a number of improvements in the build- 
ings and equipment, which add much to the com- 
fort of the inmates. 

In concluding the discussion of penal and cor- 
rectional institutions, reference is again made to 
the recommendations in previous reports as to 
the necessity of new accommodations for the in- 
sane and for persons undergoing penal sentence. 
It has been the hope of the insular authorities that 
a portion of the military reservation at Cayey 
would be transferred to the insular government 
in exchange for certain insular government prop- 
erty in San Juan, on which could be constructed 
a modern penitentiary and an insane asylum. 
However, the repeated failure to secure congres- 
sional approval of the transfer of this property 
leads to the belief that unless the exchange can 
be ratified in the near future it will be necessary for 



J[„.k-P.'^^'- 



avN380.:p,'i ;jo.(. 



^AioU -^ 











THE INSULAR POLICE SERVICE 151 



the Legislature of Porto Rico to make some other 
arrangement to relieve the condition of the in- 
mates of those two institutions. 

The following tables, extracted from the Gov- 
ernor's report, may be of interest to those readers 
fond of statistics, and will serve to show the 
numbers of crimes committed and the classes of 
offences most prevalent on the island: 

STATISTICS SHOWING NUMBER OF FELONIES COMMITTED BY 
BOTH SEXES DURING THE FISCAL YEAR ENDING JUNE 
30, 1913. 





Sentenced. 


Acquitted. 


Total 
arrested. 


Crimes. 


a 




d 


1 




1 


Attempt of murder 


33 
16 

86 

12 

10 

55 

3 

5 

68 

10 

29 

124 


2 

"k" 

1 


4 
1 

22 
2 
3 
8 
1 
5 

27 


2 


37 
17 

108 
14 
13 
63 
4 
10 
95 
10 
47 

143 


4 


Cattle stealing 




Burglary 









Arson 








Destruction of insured property.. . . 

Against the executive power 

Murder 


"k" 
1 


Smuesrline 






..'.'... 


18 
19 


...... 




False representation 


1 


Suicides (42 men, 14 women) 




Public treasury 


4 
10 
2 




3 
1 





7 
11 
2 




Mutilation 





Assault to commit homicide 




Incest 










Infraction sec. 553, Penal Code 

Infraction sec. 444, Penal Code 


162 
16 
54 

28 


4 
...... 

1 


58 

5 

32 

' 8 


2 
5 


220 
21 
86 

36 


6 

"ii 


Against the public health and se- 


6 


Bigamy 




Extortion 




























Total 


727 


11 


217 


11 


944 


83 







\, 



ISa PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

STATEMENT SHOWING THE NUMBER OF ARRESTS MADE, CON- 
VICTIONS AND ACQUITTALS DURING THE FISCAL YEAR 
ENDING JUNE 30, 1913, FOR THE FOLLOWING OFFENCES 
AND CRIMES: 



Crimbs. 



Arrests, illegal 

Animals, cruelty to 

Assault and battery 

Arson 

Abuse of confidence 

Automobile laws, infraction... 
Advertising law, infraction of. 
Adultery 



Burglary 

Bird law, infraction. 

Coins, counterfeit of 

Court, contempt of 

Corpses, profanation of 

Cattle stealing 

Docks and harbours law, infraction of. 

Executive power, crime committed Dy 
or against the 

Exposures, indecent 

Excise tax, infraction of 

Election law, infraction of 

Forgery. . 

False pretence 

Flag, profanation of United States 

Fishing law, infraction of 

Gambling 

Health and safety, crime against the 
public 

Injury, malicious 

Internal revenue laws, infraction of 

Insanity, dangerous 

Justice, crime against public 

Kidnapping 

Larceny, grand 

Larceny, petit 

Lottery tickets, sale of 

Labour, child 

Libel . 

Murders and homicides 

Murder, attempt of 

Minors, neglect of 

Mortality, against 

Mutilation 

Medicine, illegal practice of 

Minors, corruption of 

Maritime zone, constructions on the. .. 

Nature, crime against 

Ordinances, infractions of, municipal. , 

Property, fraudulent destruction of, in- 
sured 

Peace, disturbance of the 

Prostitution 



Acquitted. 



242 

527 

3 

33 

31 



16 



4 
1,224 



13 



1,212 

1 

4,131 
21 



Sentenced. 



1 

923 

1,229 

10 

203 

249 

10 

33 

86 

3 

1 

41 



16 



81 

6 

128 

3 

1 

5,701 



152 
36 
22 
55 

1 

55 

1,375 

12 

26 

1 
31 
23 

8 
18 
10 



12 



3 

8,302 



8,158 
44 



Total 



1 

1,163 

2,756 

13 

236 

280 

10 

41 

108 

8 

1 

43 

3 

17 

26 

12 
83 

1 



144 

3 

5 

6,925 



221 
40 
29 
88 
1 
63 
1,607 
15 



42 

27 

17 

22 

11 

8 

19 

3 

3 

9,541 

4 
10,289 



THE INSULAR POLICE SERVICE 153 



Crimes. 



Postal laws, violation of 

Perjury 

Pharmacy law, infraction of 

Rape 

Eoad laws, infraction of 

Riot 

Seduction 

Smuggling 

Sanitary laws, infraction of 

Slander 

Sec. 553, Penal Code, infraction of 
(Sunday closing) 

Sec. 300, Penal Code, infraction of 
(gambling houses) ... 

Sec. 37 , Penal Code, infraction of 
(inexcusable use of deadly weapons) 

Sec. 137, Penal Code, infraction of 
(other offences against the public 
justice) 

Sec. 444, Penal Code, infraction of 
(larceny) 

Sec. 305, Penal Code, infraction of 
(pawnbrokers) 

Sec. 438, Penal Code, infraction of 
(purchasing stolen articles) 

Sec. 412, Penal Code, infraction of 
(having possession of burglarious in- 
struments) 

Sec. 444-A, Penal Code, infraction of 
(unlawful use of property of another) 

Sec. .180, Penal Code, infraction of 
(sale of liquors on eve of election) 

Sec. 223, Penal Code, infraction of 
(assault with intent to commit felony) 

Sec. 56, Penal Code, infraction of (sub- 
sequent offences) 

Sec. 36, Penal Code, infraction of (ac- 
cessorv) 

Thefts.." 

Treasury, fraud against the public 

Violation 

Weights and measures, false 

Weapons, carrying deadly 



Acquitted. 



Ill 
18 
18 



310 
8 

61 

18 
8 

16 
5 
1 



14 
162 



Sentenced. 



2 

1,474 
14 
29 
10 

2,477 
21 

167 

47 

19 

14 
16 



12 

2 

2 

1 

1 

4 

4 

14 

105 

2,323 



34,967 



Total. 



1 

1 
3 

1,585 
32 
47 
10 

2,787 
29 



27 



17 



1 

1 

4 

7 

14 

19 

2,485 



41,658 



Note.— During the year there were 56 suicides and 45 attempts to suicide. 



CHAPTER XV 

MANUFACTURES, EXPORTS, FINANCE, ETC. 

Although Porto Rico is primarily an agricul- 
tural community and its greatest wealth is in 
products of the soil, yet numerous articles are 
manufactured on the island, and there are many 
thriving mechanical and other industries. Space 
will not permit of a detailed list of the factories, 
shops, mills, and other industries, but among the 
goods made upon the island may be mentioned: 
Boards ; sash and blinds ; doors ; house trimmings ; 
wooden ware; ornamental woodwork, etc. Iron 
and other foundries arei in operation; staves, 
dishes, pottery, and furniture are made. There 
are numerous lime, brick, and tile factories. 
Boats, carriages, and wagons are manufactured 
in various towns. The excellent trolley cars used 
in San Juan are made in the Miramar shops at 
Santurce, and there are steam laundries, ice fac- 
tories, gas plants, soda-water factories, bottling 
works, and canneries in all parts of the island. 
Chocolate, cigars, and tobacco, spaghetti, bay* 
154 



MANUFACTURES, EXPORTS, ETC. 155 

Tum, guava jelly, soap, salt, cheese, and butter 
«re made in nearly every town, and the beautiful 
floor tiles and mosaic work cannot fail to attract 
the attention of the visitor. Excellent trunks, 
steam boilers, barrels, boxes, leather, and even 
shirts are among the native products, and in ad- 
dition there are match factories, machine shops, 
rubber stamp makers, manufacturing jewellers, 
hat manufacturers, and scores of other lesser 
industries. 



156 PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT! 



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MANUFACTURES, EXPORTS, ETC. 157 



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158 PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

DOMESTIC AND FOREIGN MERCHANDISE SHIPPED FROM 
PORTO RICO TO THE UNITED STATES AND FOREIGN 
COUNTRIES DURING THE FISCAL YEAR ENDING JUNE 
30, 1913. 



Abticx.es. 




Domestic merchan- 
dise shipped to the 
United States. 


Domestic merchant 
dise exported to 
foreign countries. 




Quantity. 


Value. 


Quantity. 


Value. 


Cocoa 


Ihn 


1,632 
773,620 
192,681 

353,633 
360,232 
216,216 

52,144 
10,797 

771,608 


$275 
132,970 
57,374 

740,010 

1,142,007 

726,687 

147,564 
348,619 
148,749 
69,721 
18,726 

io,468 

988 


123,932 

49,000,571 

16,260 

67 
56 
31 


8,l78!846 
4,801 

61 
189 
124 


Coffee " 


Cotton, sea-island 

Fruits and nuts: 

Oranges 

Pineapples 

Grapefruit 

Prepared or preserved- 

Pmeapples 


.boxes 
.crates 
.boxes 

.boxes 
. M 

an furs 


Cocoanuts 

Hides and skins, other th 
Honey .... 


107 
3,596 


3,771 

600 

9,514 

1,160 

8,828 




...lbs. 


88,176 

"'213i225 
3,041 


4,232 
457.163 


Seeds: 

Cotton 

Annatto 


...lbs. 


Spirits, distilled: 

Alcohol 

Rum 


..gals. 


33.544 
43 


9,133 
50 


Straw Hats 




215,163 

26,619,158 

607,747 

3,006,8.54 
141,234 

5,800,162 

23,323 

4,391 

577,475 


8,269 


Sugar 


. . . tons 


382,700 
11,150,572 

6,952,467 
1,196,998 

165,524 

8,442 

72,887 




Molasses 


..gals, 
esof : 

...lbs. 






Tobacco and manufactur 
Unmanufactured- 
Leaf 


71,099 
316,212 

44 

15 
234,211 


8,987 


Scrap 

Manufactures of— 
Cigars 


M 


31,153 
584 


Cigarettes M 

Tallow lbs. 

All other domestic articles - 


21 

13,897 
53,560 




)me8tic 






Total exports of d( 
merchandise 




$40,529,665 
8,958 




$8,649,451 


Total exports of 


foreign 






15,491 




tic and 








Total exports of domes 
foreign merchandise 




$40,638,623 




$8,664,948 













MANUFACTURES, EXPORTS, ETC. 159 



Fiscal Ykar. 


Sugar. 


Cigars. 


Coffee. 


1901 


$4,715,611 

5,890,302 

7,470,122 

8,690,814 

11,925,804 

14,184,667 

14.770,682 

18,690,504 

18,432,446 

23,545,922 

24,479,346 

31,544,063 

26,619,158 


$306,115 
1.549,235 
1,753,795 
1,460,496 
2,158,051 
3,074,226 
4,241,410 
3,414,140 
4,383.893 
4,480,030 
5,355,223 
5,086.711 
5,800,686 


$1,678,765 
3,195,662 
3,970,574 
3,903,257 
2,141,009 
3,481,102 
4,693,004 
4,304,609 
3,715,744 
5,669,602 
4,992.779 
6,754,913 
8,511,316 


1902 


1903 


1904 


1905 


1906 


1907 


1908 


1909 


1910 


1911 


1912 


1913 





Fiscal Ybab. 


Imports. 


Exports. 


Total. 


1901... 


$8,918,136 
13,209,610 
14,449,286 
13,169,029 
16,536.259 
21,827,665 
29,267,172 
25,825,665 
26,544,326 
30,634,855 
38,786,997 
42,926,473 
36,900,062 


$8,583,967 
12,433,956 
15,089,079 
16,265,903 
18.709,565 
23,257,530 
26,996,300 
30,644,490 
30,391,225 
37.960,219 
39,918,367 
49,705,413 
49,103.565 


$17,502,103 
25,643,566 
29,538,365 
29,434,932 
35,245,824 
45,085,195 
56,263,472 
56,470,155 
56,935,551 
68,595,074 
78,705,364 
92,631,886 
86,003,627 


1902 ■ 


1903 


1904 


1905 


1906 


1907 


1908 


1909 ". 


1910 


1911 


1912 


1913 '..'.'. 





160 PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

STATEMENT BY COUNTRIES OF VALUE OF MERCHANDISE 
BROUGHT INTO PORTO RICO FROM THE UNITED STATES 
AND FOREIGN COUNTRIES FOR THE FIVE YEARS END- 
ING JUNE 30, 1913. 







Shipped 


INTO Porto Rico. 






1909 


1910 


1911 


1912 


1913 


United States 

Austria- Hungary... 
Belgium 


$23,618,545 

8,826 

55,406 

48,388 

336,855 

250,981 

72,106 

122,842 

2,097 

1,055 

585,792 

558 


$27,097,654 

7,030 

97,340 

67,127 

345,469 

493,856 

76,611 

164.314 

414 

993 

708,573 


$34,671,958 

15,000 

99,949 

108,737 

435,024 

586,575 

80,847 

252,596 


$38,470,963 

11,329 

87,507 

97,593 

409,278 

601,723 

105.446 

218,435 

271 

1,920 

843,120 


$33,155,005 
10,406 
142,571 




111,212 




348,975 


Germany 


326.419 


Italy 


74,986 


Netherlands 


237,969 

287 




1,896 
791,293 


692 


Spain 


761,082 










2,127 

1,012 

423.809 

609,381 

89,025 

583 

2,924 


2.325 

1,036 

490.579 

699,731 

58,822 

670 

93,489 


19.659 


Switzerland 

United Kingdom... 


3,725 

382,087 
536,260 
170,107 
803 
. 26,674 


373 

366,241 
555,729 

77,074 
85 

13,226 

5,183 

1,954 
56,511 
12,128 
38,504 


2,262 
368,107 
639.178 


Newfoundland 


82,023 
103 




61,804 


Miquelon, Langley, 




West Indies: 


8,343 
42,360 
3.754 

8,673 




15,548 

63,460 

3,048 

8,343 


18,893 


CuhSi. .'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'. 


43,815 

1,753 

12,523 

2,827 


64,262 
4,632 


Dutch 


6,691 




133 








60 
68,920 
89,879 


11 


Santo Domingo. 


13,156 
19,263 


41,396 

43,005 

765 

3,248 


52,508 
129,155 


16,857 
86,989 




,,.,., 


Colombia 


3,656 


6,579 


3,625 
3,123 


6,720 




366 


Guiana— British ... 


795 

"126,614 
8,191 

115,340 

56 

21,018 




45 

i*87",212 
11,716 

127,399 

22 

38,707 




172 

199,341 

7,925 

109,406 

142 

43,066 






149,444 
13,455 

295,591 

**■■ 64,158 


43,195 


Venezuela 

East Indies— British 


14,627 
242,195 


Japan 


68 


Canary Islands 

Spanish Africa 


49,183 
2,500 


Total 


$26,544,326 


$30,634,855 


$38,786,997 


$42,972,891 


$36,900,062 







MANUFACTURES, EXPORTS, ETC. 161 



STATEMENT SHOWING COST OF CONSTRUCTION OF ROADS 
AND BRIDGES TO JUNE 30, 1913. 



Cost of roads and bridges to July 1, 1913 ... 

Conetraction of various sections of roads defrayed from— ' 
Proceeds of sale of bonds for road construction, trust fund 

Insular road and bridge construction 

Construction of certain bridges and culverts on Road No '3 

Completion of Vega Baja-Morovis road 

Completion of road between Aguada and Afiasco..." '.'.."."" 

Construction of Arecibo-Lares road 

Construction of Martin Pena-Bayamon road '.'.'. 

Construction of bridges over Inabon, Cerrillos, and Portiil 

guese Rivers 

Construction of Guaynabo-Pueblo v'iejo'road 

Study of road, Barros to Coamo 

Completion of Arecibo-Hatillo road. . ..'.'..'.'.'. 

Construction of road from Road No. 2 to Florida Aden tro" 

Construction of Ciales-Juana Diaz road '.[ 

Bridge and road construction between reform school' and 

Mayaguez PJaya 

Completion of bridge over Rio Hondo between kilometres 

3 and 4 

Completion of road between Mayaguez'an'd Maricao. via 

Las Vegas 

Completion of Road No. 2 between San jfiian and Arecibo 

Bridge over Sebana River at Luquillo 

Construction of Road No. 16 from Yanco to Road" No." 14! ' 
Construction of San Sebastian-Las Marias road. . . . 
Completion of San German-Lajas road. 
Construction of Camuy-San Sebastian road '.'.'. 



Valuation 

as of 

June 30, 1913. 



Total to June 30, 1913 $7,220,70' 



$7,061,032.58 

18,243.93 
60,147.91 
46,586.68 
13,855.53 
2,127.65 
2,349.74 
8,384.48 

345.83 
866.58 
755.86 
659.14 
12.42 



212.20 

300.00 

651.04 

138.93 

2,725.86 

813.69 

32.00 
112 50 

89.47 



.42 



16a PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 



NUMBER OF VESSELS AND TONNAGE ENTERING PORTS OF 
PORTO RICO DURING FISCAL YEAR ENDING JUNE 30, 1913. 





San Juan. 


Ponce. 


Mayaguez. 


Arroyo. 




1 


If 


1 
1 


it 


1 

525 


ll 


1 


li 


American steamers 
American sailing. . . 
Foreign steamers. . . 
Foreign sailing 


288 
80 

101 
27 


999,265 

64,107 

353,868 

3,432 


176 
38 
85 
31 


555,434 

34,866 

355,575 

5,184 


230 

33 

44 

6 


703,362 

16,729 

113,714 

922 


91 

12 

1 


255,511 
10,552 
8,345 


Total 


496 


420,672 


330 


851,059 


818 


834,727 


104 


274,408 













Total Ameri- 












can and for- 




Humacao. 


Fajardo. 


Agnadilla. 


eign steam 












and sailing 












vessels. 




1 


OD ^ 


1 


A 


1 


1 


, 


i 




1 




a 


II 


a 


g 


^ 


1 


American steamers 


81 


240,376 


47 


146,829 


115 


349,618 


1,028 


2,513.572 


American sailing... 


12 


6,390 


8 


6,611 


6 


1,781 


189 


126,254 


Foreign steamers.. . 










22 


52,842 


254 


731,502 


Foreign sailing 






•• 





1 


72 


65 


9,610 


Total 


93 


246,766 


55 


153,440 


144 


404,313 


1,536 


8,380,938 







CHAPTER XVI 



TRANSPORTATION 



The facilities for transportation of merchandise 
or passengers in Porto Rico are really wonderful. 
Although the island is small and no point is more 
than eighteen miles distant from the sea, — in a 
straight line, — yet the broken, rugged, and moun- 
tainous character of the island make the actual 
distances between points very great. The Span- 
iards early recognised the value of good roads, 
and when the island came into the possession of 
the United States there were already nearly two 
hundred miles of splendid highway on the island, 
the principal one being the famous Military Road 
from San Juan to Ponce. Since the American 
occupation numerous additional macadam roads 
have been constructed, until at the present time 
there are over eight hundred miles of beautifully 
graded, smooth-surfaced roads suitable for auto- 
mobile traffic. These splendid highways connect 
all the principal towns and cities, and form a 
network of arteries of travel which is unequalled 
163 



164i PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

in any West Indian island and is excelled by 
few places in the world. The original and prin- 
cipal means of travel in Porto Rico was formerly 
by means of horse-drawn vehicles, mule trains,' 
riding horses, and the great lumbering, creaking 
bull-carts. To-day nearly all the passenger and 
a great proportion of the freight transportation 
is carried on in automobiles, auto trucks, and rail- 
way trains, but an enormous amount of freight is 
still hauled in wagons, carriages, and ox-carts. 
At the present time there are about one thousand 
automobiles on the island, and several companies 
operate passenger and freight lines of autos run- 
ning on a regular schedule between various points. 

The railway facilities of the island are far less 
up-to-date and satisfactory than the auto lines, 
but the character of the country prevents the ex- 
tensive use of steam roads, save in certain sec- 
tions and near the coasts, and under the circum- 
stances the railway accommodations are as good 
as could be expected. 

From Carolina on the north coast a steam road 
connects at San Juan with the line to the western 
end of the island, extending to Arecibo and hence 
south to Mayaguez and Ponce to Guayama, in 



TRANSPORTATION 165 

this way encircling nearly four-fifths of the island 
and passing through all the important coastal 
towns. In various places short branches of this 
system penetrate some distance to the interior and 
furnish transportation to the sugar " centrals." 
Another railway extends from Mameyes to Na- 
guabo; another connects Dorado with Vega Alta; 
another runs between Humacao and Humacao 
Play a ; still another line connects Anasco and Al- 
tosano ; the Caguas tramway connects Rio Piedras 
with Caguas, and another short branch runs from 
Cantano to Bayamon. It will thus be seen that 
the traveller in Porto Rico may reach almost any 
desired point by means of modern vehicles and 
fairly rapid transit, and that practically every 
district of the island is provided with ample 
transportation facilities to enable the planter, 
agriculturist, or manufacturer to get his goods or 
products to the seacoast towns. The bugbear 
of poor and expensive transportation, which has 
proved such a detriment to many other tropical 
localities, is entirely wanting in Porto Rico. 

The oceanic transportation facilities are also 
excellent, no less than fourteen steamship lines 
running to the island. The main lines operating 



166 PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

between the United States and Porto Rico are 
the Red " D," the New York and Porto Rico, and 
the Bull lines. The Red " D " line operates a line 
of ships running from New York to Venezuela 
and touching at San Juan on the outward and 
homeward trips. The New York and Porto Rico 
line is the principal passenger and mail line, and 
operates three large and splendidly appointed 
ships between New York and San Juan, calling at 
Ponce and Mayaguez. These ships sail weekly 
every Saturday from New York and arrive at 
San Juan the following Wednesday or Thursday. 
In addition the company operates coastwise 
steamers, carrying freight and passengers about 
the island, and other ships of the same line ply 
between Porto Rico and New Orleans. The Insu- 
lar and Bull lines, which have recently combined, 
are devoted to freight carrying. The Spanish 
and French Transatlantic steamers connect Porto 
Rico with Europe, Mexico, Cuba, Central Amer- 
ica, Haiti, San Domingo, and other West Indian 
ports, while the Hamburg- American line runs a 
ship between St. Thomas and Jamaica, calling at 
Porto Rico and San Domingo, and the Italian 
line runs from Mediterranean ports to the island. 



TRANSPORTATION 167 

iThere are also numerous sailing vessels plying 
from port to port about the coast and from other 
West Indian islands; a ferry line runs regularly 
across San Juan Harbour between the capital and 
Cantano, and gasoline launches are at the service 
of those desiring to reach other waterside towns. 

A very important item in the transportation 
of freight, baggage, and merchandise is the serv- 
ice offered by the Porto Rican Express Company 
and the Consolidated Express Company. These 
firms maintain an insular service of auto trucks 
and express wagons, and also operate an express 
service over the railway lines and forward mer- 
chandise over seas by the Red " D " and New 
York and Porto Rico Steamship Companies. 

The postal service is excellent, with daily and 
bi-daily deliveries in all towns, and a bi-weekly 
service with the United States. The various parts 
of the island are also connected by telegraph and 
telephone lines ; cables link the island to all parts 
of the world, and the powerful wireless station at 
San Juan allows of direct communication with 
New York, and upon the completion of the plant 
will be one of the most, if not the most, powerful 
wireless station in the world. 



168 PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

American Railroad Time Table — San Juan-Ponce Division 



BEAD DOWN 




Daily 


Daily 




3 


1 




P. M. 


A. M. 




9.10 


7.20 




9.15 


7.25 




9.26 


7.31 




9.30 


7.34 




9.39 


7.41 




9.45 


7.47 




10.08 


8.02 




10 20 


8.13 




10.26 P 


8.18 




10.33 


8 25 




10.38 


8.29 




10 57 F 


8.50 




11.04 


8.56 




11.09 


9,01 




11.18 


9.10 




11.25 


9.15 




11.37 


9.27 




11.51 


9.41 
9.47 




11.57 F 




12.07 


9.57 




12.13 


10.03 
9.45 




12.00 




12 20 


10.15 




12.48 


10.09 




1.26 F 


10.32 




1.32 F 


10.37 




1.56 


10.59 




2.25 


11.27 




3.01 


12.03 




3.43 


12.28 




3.57 F 


12.42 




4.08 


12.50 




4 19F 






4.33 


1.11 




4.39 F 


1.17 




4.51 


1.29 




5.02 


1.39 




5.17 


1.54 




5.37 


2.00 




5.46 


2.06 
2.23 
2.30 
2.35 
2.45 




6 03 




6.10 




6 15 




6.25 




6.44 


3.02 




6.49 


3.07 




6 57 


3.15 
3 22 
3.32 




7.05 




7.14 




7.27 


3.44 
3.54 
4.06 
4.15 




7.38 




7.50 




8 00 




8.14 


4.29 




8.38 


4.50 




A. M. 


P. M. 





STATIONS 



Depart Arrive 

San Jaan 

Miramar-F- 

Talleres 

Santurce 

Martin Pefia 

San Patricio-F- 

Bayamon 

Sabana Seca-F- 

Ingenio-F- 

Toa Baja 

Dorado 

San Vicente 

Vega Baja , 

Algarrobo-F- 

Campo Alegre-F- 

Manati 

Barceloneta 

Cummings-F- 

Santana-F- 

Cambalache 

Arrive Arecibo Station Depart 



D 

A 


Arecibo 

. ... Arecibo 


A. 

D. 



D Arecibo A. 

Hatillo ■, 

Camuy , 

.Quebradillas. 

Isabela'. 

A * Aguadilla D. 

D Aguadilla A. 

Coloso 

Aguada 

Santoni 

Rincon 

C6rcega 

Tree Hermanos-F- 

, . Afiasco 

A Mayaguez Playa D. 

D Mayaguez Playa A. 

Mayaguez 

Hormigueros 

Rio Rosario-F- 

Filial Amor 

, San German. 

, Lajas City 

, Lajas Station 

Lajas Arriba-F- 

L Plato-F- 

E Limon-F- 

Santa Rita 

.Yauco. 

. Lluveras-F- 

Gnayanilla 

.Tailaboa. 

PONCE 

Arrive Depart 



READ UP 



Daily 



P. M. 

5.06 
5.01 
4.56 
4.52 
4.46 
4.39 
4.23 
4.11 
4.06 
4:00 
3.56 
3.35 
3.29 
3.22 
3.13 
3.08 
2.55 
2.40 
2.34 
2.25 
2.18 
2.22 
1.52 
2.12 
1.50 
1.45 
1.23 
12.55 
12.18 
11.53 
11.41 
11.33 

11.12 
11.06 
10.53 
10.44 
10.27 
10.19 
10.15 
9.55 
9.47 
9.43 
9.32 
9.13 
9.07 
8.57 
8.50 
8.43 
8.31 
8.21 
8 07 
7.59 
7.44 
7.20 
A. M. 



Daily 



A. M. 

8.48 

8.43 

8.38 

8.33 

8.27 
t8.19 

8.03 

7.51 

7.46 

7.40 

7.36 

7.15 

7.09 

7.03 

6.54 

6.49 

6.37 

6.25 

6.19 

6.07 

6.00 

5.50 

5.35 

5.25 

4.54 F 

4.46 F 

4.15 

3.41 

3.02 

2.30 

2.16 

2.07 F 

1.45 F 

1.43 

1.36 F 

1.17 

1.10 
12.45 
12.15 
12.10 
11.50 
11.42 
11.38 
11.26 
11.03 
10.56 
10 46 
10.40 
10.30 
10.17 - 
10.07 

9 44 
9.28 P 
9.00 
P. M. 



At flag stops trains step on signal to receive or discharge passengers, 
P In column showing time indicates flag stop for that train. 
P After name of Station indicates flag stop for that train. 
♦ Stop for Lunch. 



TRANSPORTATION 



169 



TIME TABLE AND FARES BY THE AUTO BUSSES OP PORTO 
RICO TRANSPORTATION COMPANY 

TIME SCHEDULE 

ITINERARIO 







San 


Juar 


I— Ponce 








SOUTH-BOUND 


NORTH-BOUND 


Run No. 


1 


3 


5 


Run No. 


2 


4 


6 


San Joan Lv. 

Rio Piedras.. Arr. 

Caguas " 

Cayey ." 

Cayey .Lv. 

Aibonito Arr. 

Coamo '♦ 

Juana Diaz...." 
Ponce " 


8:00 

8:40 

*9:45 

11:05 

11:35 

2!25 
3:00 




6:00 
7:00 
8:00 
9:00 
9:45 


Ponce Lv. 

Juana Diaz.. Arr. 

Coamo " 

Aibonito " 

Cayey " 

Cayey Lv. 

Caguas Arr. 

Rio Piedras....*' 
San Juan 


8:00 

8:30 

9:25 

10:25 

14 : 30 


6:20 
7i30 
8:45 


6:30 
7:45 
10:00 
11:00 





Cayey- 


-Guayama— Ponce 








SOUTH AND WEST 


EAST AND NORTH 


Run No. 


7 






Run No, 


8 






Cayey Lv. 

Guayama — Arr. 
Salinas 


6:00 
7:30 
8:45 
3:15 
10:30 


* 




Ponce Lv. 

Sta. Isabel...." 

Salinas " 

Guayama " 

Cayey " 


lite 

6:15 






Sta. Isabel 

Ponce 









Humacao — Caguas 



WEST 


EAST 


Run. No. 


9 


11 




Run No. 


10 


12 




Humacao Lv. 

Las Piedras.. Arr. 

Juncos " 

Gurabo " 

Caguas " 


6:15 
6:35 

7:05 

7:25 

t7:50 


12:00 

11:18 

1:10 
tli35 




Caguas Lv. 

Gurabo Arr. 

Juncos " 

Las Piedras...." 
Humacao " 


10:00 
10:20 
10:50 
11:10 
11:30 


7:25 
7;55 
8:15 





t Connects at Caguas for San Juan. 
tConnecta en Caguas para San Juan. 

* Connects in Caguas for Humacao. 

* Connecta en Caguas para Humacao. 

The time given above is the time at which the busses are expected to 
arrive, but the time of departure or arrival is not guaranteed nor will 
the company be liable for any failure to dejart or arrive on schedule. 

El tiempo indicado arriba es el due se permite para llegar los carruajes, 
pero las salidas y llegadas de estos no se garantizan, ni la Compania se 
hace responsable de cualquier accidente qu« pueda entorpecer el itinerario. 



170 PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 



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CHAPTER XVII 

HOTELS, BOARD, AND UVING EXPENSES 

While hotels are legion on the island, yet really 
good hotels are few and far between. Practically 
every town boasts one or more hotels, and while 
the traveller or tourist can find bed and board in 
any part of the island, yet the fastidious visitor 
will find much to be desired. The majority of the 
hotels are clean, and the proprietors undoubtedly 
do their best to please, but their resources are 
limited and their knowledge of the wants of 
Americans and of the management of hotels is 
very rudimentary. As a rule the food is Spanish 
or Porto Rican, and many of the dishes are too 
greasy, too highly spiced, or savour too much of 
garlic to appeal to the Northern palate. One 
should not, however, be discouraged. Usually 
among the vast array of dishes on the menu one 
may find two or three which are acceptable, while 
the native vegetables, fruit, chickens, and eggs 
are always good. The rate charged in these 
small native hostelries is as high as in the larger 

171 



17^ PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

and better hotels in the principal towns. From 
$1.50 to $2.00 a day, — ^American plan, — is the 
ordinary rate, but the accommodations are not 
worth over $1.00 at the most. 

In the large towns the majority of the hotels 
are but little better than those of the outlying 
and interior towns. In San Juan proper there 
is really no good hotel. The Plaza, Inglaterra, 
and Frances are probably the best, but in these 
one will find native cooking and poor service. In 
the suburb of Santurce, however, are two really 
good places, the Hotel Eureka and the Hotel 
Nava. The former is close to the Union Club, 
and is a large and commodious building, with ex- 
cellent rooms, but in the United States it would 
be considered far from a first-class hotel, although 
the rates savour of the Murray Hill or the Knick- 
erbocker. The Nava is by far the better, and both 
are conducted by Americans. At the Nava the 
rooms are large, airy, wonderfully neat and clean, 
and the table is probably the best on the island. 
The rates at the Nava are $3.00 and $4.00 and 
up. The management leaves much to be desired, 
but it is really the only hotel where one feels that 
he is getting his money's worth. At Ponce the 



HOTELS AND BOARD 173 

Hotel Frances is an excellent hotel, with rates 
of from $3.00 up, but the Inglaterra or the Melia 
are very satisfactory for a short stop. The table 
at the Inglaterra is good for native cooking, the 
rooms are airy, clean, and comfortable, and the 
rates are from $1.50 to $2.00. 

In many places there are private boarding 
houses, and several are to be found at Santurce. 
These boarding houses are conducted by Ameri- 
cans, and the rates are fully equal to those in the 
hotels, whereas the service does not approach that 
of the best hotels, the food is no better nor even 
as good, and there is really no advantage what- 
ever in stopping at a boarding house. Unfor- 
tunately the Porto Rican boarding house keepers 
and hotel proprietors have a mistaken idea that 
all visitors prefer American dishes, and heavy 
meals of numerous imported vegetables, cereals, 
meat, and canned goods are served at every meal. 
It is comparatively seldom that odd native vege- 
tables are served or that any fruit, save oranges 
or bananas, are seen on the table. For this reason 
the smaller native hostelries are preferable if one 
really desires to sample native food, but this may 



174 PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

be done to better advantage in some of the many 
good restaurants. 

In San Juan and Ponce there are numerous 
large cafes or restaurants, where lunches, dinners, 
etc., may be obtained, and where splendid choco- 
late and delicious coffee, tasty cakes, biscuits, 
sweetmeats, and excellent ice-cream may be 
had. Everywhere are little stores, kiosks, and 
cafes, where one may obtain iced drinks, soda- 
water, and excellent beer, made on the island. 
These soft drinks are all good; they are pure, 
refreshing, and are usually preferable to loca} 
water, although Porto Rico water is as a rule 
perfectly safe to drink. Several mineral springs 
on the island furnish sparkling vichy-like water, 
which is for sale in every town, and such brands 
as " Pastilla " may be used, with absolute confi- 
dence. Cocoanut water from green cocoanuts, 
'known as " Cocos de Agua," is cooling and re- 
freshing, and may be taken as frequently and as 
freely as one desires. Nearly all the native fruits 
are healthy, and many of them are cooling and 
nourishing. To appreciate some tropical fruits 
and vegetables, the Northerner must cultivate an 
acquired taste, but good oranges, grapefruit, pine- 



HOTELS AND BOARD 175 

apples, and bananas are always available. The 
cost of living in Porto Rico depends largely upon 
how one lives. If you insist on American food 
and subsist upon imported things, the cost of liv- 
ing is high, whereas if you can accustom yourself 
to native dishes and are fond of vegetables and 
fruits, the cost of living is quite reasonable. 
House rents are excessive, but now and then one 
may find a house which is comparatively cheap. 
Furniture, household goods, and almost all other 
merchandise is sold for the same prices as in New 
York. Servants are high, and as a rule poor and 
untrustworthy. English-speaking servants from 
St. Thomas, St. Kitts, ar the British islands are 
preferable to the natives in most cases, but nearly 
everything in the island has an inflated value. 
Gas ranges are used extensively in San Juan, 
Ponce, and the large towns ; electricity is used 
everywhere for lighting; running water is in 
nearly every house, and one may have every com- 
fort and convenience of the North if desired. 

There is a great and increasing need for a well- 
conducted, properly-managed, and convenient 
hotel, planned and arranged for the tropics and 
with meals served a la carte or table d'hote. 



176 PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

Such a hotel should have a bus or auto meet the 
steamers, should have a carriage and auto livery 
connected with it, and should be equipped to fur- 
nish reliable, intelligent guides to accompany 
guests about the towns, and to act as interpreters. 
If a hotel of this sort should be established, an3 
with road-houses or branches at various towns 
throughout the island, it would fill a long-felt 
want and would doubtless induce many tourists 
and travellers to visit the island, for it must be 
admitted that many Americans think far more of 
the hotel accommodations they will find than of 
the scenery, climate, customs, or people they will 
meet in a foreign country. 



HOTELS 



ADJUNTAS 

Hotel Aparicio 

Hotel Ybero Americano 

AGUADA 
Innoceneio Charneco 

AGUADILLA 
Hotel Borinquen 
Hotel Porto Rico 
Hotel Universo 

AGUAS BUENAS 
Hotel Juana Diaz 
Modesta Camarcho 
Jos6 Lopez 



AIBONITO 
Hotel Aibonito 

ARECIBO 
Las Balearis 
Hotel Boston 
Hotel Comercio 
Hotel Inglaterra 
Hotel El Parque 
Hotel Porto Rico 

ARROYO 
Hotel Alhambra 

BARCELONETA 
Jos6 Guerrero 
J. Martinez & Co. 



HOTELS AND BOARD 



177 



HOTELS- 
BABRANQUITAS 
Hotel El Hogar 
Adela Jimenez 

BAYAMON 
Hotel Buena Vista 

CABO ROJO 
Hotel Fenix 

CAGUAS 
Hotel America 
Hotel Filo 

CAMUY 
Turiano Rivera 

CAROLINA 
Isabel Calderon 

CAYEY 
La Esperanza 
Hotel Gloria 
Hotel Inglaterra 

CIALES 
Hotel Maria 

CIDRA 
Francisco Gonzalez 
Wenseslao Segarra 

COAMO 
Isabel Pico 

COAMO SPRINGS 
Coamo Springs Hotel 

COMERIO 
Cirilo Cruz 
Levacadio Rivera 

COROZAL 
Dolores Rivera 



-Continued 

FAJARDO 
Hotel Fajardo 
San Rafael 

GUAYAMA 
Hotel Frances 
Hotel Gloria 
Hotel Roma 

GURABO 
Marcia Maldonado 
Jose Ramon Quinonez 
Antonio Vasquez 

HATILLO 
Natalia Morales 

HUMACAO 
Hotel America 
Hotel Maxim 
Hotel Oriente 
Hotel Paris 

ISABELA 
Hotel Parada 
Hotel Estacion 

JUANA DIAZ 
Hotel Borinquen 
Hotel Italia 
Hotel Porto Rico 

JUNCOS 
Estela Bohonis 

LARES 
Hotel America 
Hotel Central 
Hotel Roma 

MANATI 

Hotel Central 
Hotel Comercio 
Hotel Coney Island 
Hotel Porto Rico 



178 PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 



MAEICAO 
P. Cordero 



HOTELS— Continued 

SALINAS 
Hotel Cosmopolita 



MAYAGUEZ 

Hotel America 
Hotel Inglaterra 
Hotel Nacional 
Hotel Palmer 
Hotel Paris 
Hotel Pina 
Hotel Porto Eico 

MOCA 
J. Cotta V d de Perez 
Aurora Gonzalez de Miranda 

NAGUABO 
Jos6 S. Belaval 

PATILLAS 
Jesus M. Marquez 
Rafael Ortiz 

PONCE 
Hotel Frances 
Hotel Inglaterra 
Hotel Melia 
Hotel El Hogar 
Fenix 
Vesubio 
Las Delicias 
Central Fortuna 

JUBRADILLAS 
Juan Munoz 

RIO GRANDE 
Adelina Quinonez 
Saturino Reyes 

SABANA GRANDE 

Magdalena Acosta 
Juana Rodriguez 



SAN GERMAN 
Hotel Central 
Hotel Frances 
Hotel La Lucha 

SAN JUAN 
Hotel Plaza 
Hotel Colonial 
Hotel Inglaterra 
Hotel Roma 
Hotel Frances 
Hotel New York 

SANTURCE 
Hotel Nava 
Hotel Eureka 

SAN LORENZO 
Teresa Macliin 

SAN SEBASTIAN 
Hotel Julia 

TOA ALTA 
Sandalian Nieves 

UTUADO 
Hotel La Bruja 
Hotel Universe 

VEGA ALTA 

Jose Escalera 

YABUCOA 

Jos6 Borrejo 
Francisco Lanarse 

YAUCO 

Hotel Maria 
Hotel Pla 
Hotel Victoria 



CHAPTER XVIII 

SCHOOLS AND EDUCATION 

In 1898, after four centuries of civilised gov- 
ernment, there was but one building on the island 
especially erected for school purposes ; the total 
enrolment in the public schools was but 26,000 ; 
80 per cent of the entire population, 80 per cent 
of the children of school age, and 73 per cent 
of the males of voting age (over 21 years) were 
illiterate, unable to read or write. A million souls 
with this high percentage of illiteracy were domi- 
ciled within 3,600 square miles, or approximately 
300 to the square mile, a population more dense 
than that of any part of the United States except 
a few manufacturing districts. 

The people have responded magnificently to 
their opportunities and the inspiration of educa- 
tional advancement is obvious throughout the 
island. Fourteen million dollars have been wisely 
expended for educational purposes since civil gov- 
ernment was established in 1900. Instead of one 
school house, erected for that purpose, as w^as the 
179 



180 PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

case in 1899, the people of Porto Rico own to-day 
105 graded school buildings, many of which are 
of fine construction and compare favourably with 
the better class of school buildings in the cities 
of the United States, and S64 rural school build- 
ings distributed throughout the country districts 
of the island, while 1,180 separate schools are 
maintained and 1,97^ teachers employed in the 
service. The public school enrolment has been 
increased from 26,000 to 161,785. The percen- 
tage of illiteracy in the whole population has 
been reduced fromj 80 per cent to 66 per cent, 
and of all persons between 10 and 20 years of 
age, to 53. A considerable reduction in illiteracy 
among persons over 21 years of age has been ac- 
complished by public night schools, which are 
eagerly sought and have been maintained wher- 
ever possible. 

The daily attendance in the public schools dur- 
ing the past year averaged 117,360, a very slight 
increase over the average of the previous school 
year. The total enrolment was 161,785, also but 
a slight increase over the enrolment of the year 
before. The task of extending the public school 
system met the obstacle of limited funds available 



SCHOOLS AND EDUCATION 181 

for that purpose. It became apparent that to 
proceed with the accommodation of the gradually 
increasing enrolment, more school buildings than 
were being constructed were needed, and with 
every new school building funds for more teach- 
ers, more books, and more equipment were 
necessary. 

The Legislative Assembly had from year to 
year generously increased the allotments of funds 
for educational purposes, until in 1913 it found 
itself in a position where to make further increases 
in these appropriations to the extent that the 
demand for additional educational facilities re- 
quired an increase in the treasury receipts was 
necessary, and to accomplish this new revenue 
laws were passed. The appropriation for school 
purposes was then increased by something more 
than a million dollars over that for the previous 
year, and an increase of nearly eight hundred in 
the number of teachers, also authorised by the 
legislature, will provide accommodations for at 
least 80,000 more pupils. 



182 PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

THE COMMON SCHOOLS 

The common-school system of Porto Rico com- 
prises the rural and graded schools. During the 
school year of 1912-13 a total of 1,064 rural 
schools were allotted to the municipalities of the 
island, whereas there were but 765 graded 
schools. Of the two the rural schools are the 
most important factor in uplifting and educating 
the masses of the people. Most of these schools 
are located in the country districts wherever 
needed, and funds are available for their mainte- 
nance and are often reached after long, hard 
climbs over mountain trails. Although the large 
majority of buildings used for rural school pur- 
poses are rented by the school boards, neverthe- 
less 264* rural school buildings were owned by 
the school boards or by the people of Porto Rico 
on June 30, 1913. The school boards in many 
localities have made great strides forward in the 
matter of equipping the rural schools with mod- 
ern furniture and appliances. 

The course of study for the rural schools covers 
a six-year period, although not all the rural 
schools have students enrolled in all six grades. 




SALIXAS SCHOOL, SALINAS 
MC KIXLEY SCHOOL, POXCE 



SCHOOLS AND EDUCATION 183 

The enrolment in each grade in the rural schools 
on March 1, 1913, is shown by the following table: 

First grade 46,836 

Second grade 19,455 

Third grade 11,684 

Fourth grade 5,024 

Fifth grade 943 

Sixth grade 77 

Seventh grade 5 

Total 84,024 

When we take into consideration the fact that 
none of the rural schools of the island offered work 
beyond the third grade previous to the year 
1907-8, the enrolment of 6,049 pupils in grades 
above the third of the rural schools at the present 
time is indicative of the growth of the rural 
system. 

The course of study for the rural schools dif- 
fers from that of the graded schools in that prac- 
tically all of the work is given in Spanish, English 
being taught as a special subject in all grades 
after the first. However, in those rural schools 
which are located near the urban centres not infre- 
quently the course of study for the graded schools 
is followed. The course of study for the rural 
schools articulates with that of the graded schools 
at the end of the fourth year, thereby enabling 



184 PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

pupils from any rural school to enter any graded 
school without loss after completing the work of 
the fourth grade. 

IMPORTANCE OF RURAL SCHOOLS 

The important mission which the rural schools 
will have to fill in the uplift of the people can 
be understood when we realise that 837,725, or 
74.9 per cent of the total population of the island, 
is to be found in the rural districts. Of this rural 
population 292,666 are of school age; that is, 
from 5 to 18 years. The total enrolment in the 
rural schools at the time the school census was 
taken last March was 84,024, or a little more than 
28 per cent of the rural population of school age. 

In many of the rural barrios a large number of 
the inhabitants live in relatively close proximity, 
and wherever this condition prevails the school 
boards have been requested to acquire a piece of 
land centrally located for the purpose of construct- 
ing thereon a centralised rural school of two, three, 
or four rooms, according to the number of chil- > 
dren of school age. This will prove more eco- 
nomical for the school boards and much better / 



SCHOOLS AND EDUCATION 185 

results can be obtained than by having the children 
of a given barrio housed in two or three separate 
buildings. In other words, an effort will be made 
to carry the graded school system, with all its 
conveniences, to as many as possible of the 75 per 
cent of the children of school age who live in the 
country. 

The graded schools have more and better ac- 
commodations than the rural, due to their loca- 
tion and to the fact that there are several rooms 
in the same building. They are maintained in 
each of the 70 municipalities of the island and 
also in a few of the more populous barrios. Most 
of the towns have provided modern buildings for 
their graded system and the few remaining plan to 
secure loans with which to construct modern build- 
ings before the close of the year 1913-14. 

The people of Porto Rico own 105 graded 
school buildings containing a total of 557 class- 
rooms, and with the new legislation secured, au- 
thorising school boards to issue bonds, it is ex- 
pected that many new buildings will be constructed 
during the coming year. 

The course of study of the graded schools 
covers the full eight grades of the common-school 



186 PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

course, and students who complete the course 
and pass the examination set by the department 
of education, which is uniform for the island, re- 
ceive the common-school diploma. The number 
of persons receiving the common-school diploma 
has increased very rapidly during the past ten 
years, as shown by the following table : 

COMMON-SCHOOL DIPLOMAS ISSUED 



School year: 
1902-3 


Pupils. 
44 


School year: 
1908-9 


Pupils. 
. . 651 


1903-4 


29 


1909-10 ... 
1910-11 ... 
1911-12 ... 
1912-13 ... 


707 


1904-5 


79 


967 


1905-6 


212 


1,325 


1906-7 


213 


1,634 


1907-8 .... 


467 





One who visits the graded schools of the island 
is impressed with the favourable conditions under 
which the work is carried on. The buildings, 
mostly of a modified Spanish type of architecture, 
nearly all constructed of cement, are pleasing in 
appearance, well lighted and ventilated. Almost 
without exception the school equipment is as com- 
plete and perfect as can be found anywhere. The 
course of study for the graded schools can be 
compared favourably with that of the better 
public-school systems in the United States. 



SCHOOLS AND EDUCATION 187 

The instruction in the graded-school system is 
given in the English language in all subjects with 
the exception of Spanish. The Spanish language 
is taught as a special subject, beginning with the 
second grade and continuing to the end of the 
course. Hereafter all the work in nature study 
of the first four grades will be given in Spanish 
as well as the first year's work in hygiene and 
sanitation. A class in Spanish language will also 
be introduced into the work of the first grade. 
Manual training and agriculture will be obliga- 
tory subjects for all boys enrolled in the upper 
three grades of the graded school system and 
cooking and sewing for all girls enrolled in those 
same grades. Instruction in music and drawing 
will be given in all the grades. 

CONTINUATION SCHOOLS 

Due to the increased number of pupils grad- 
uating from eighth grades and to the fact that 
many of these wished to continue their studies 
but were unable to do so, since high schools were 
maintained in but three or four towns of the 
island, the department established continuation 



188 PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

schools in some of the larger centres of popula- 
tion for the purpose of taking the pupils upon 
the completion of their common-school course 
and carrying them two years further in their edu- 
cational career without the necessity of leaving 
home. 

The work of the continuation schools is based 
principally upon manual training for boys and 
cooking and sewing for girls, but at the end of 
this two-year period the pupils are prepared to 
go out with a fair knowledge of the practical side 
of life, or if they so desire they may enter any 
of the high schools of the island, receiving full 
credit toward high-school graduation for all the 
work done during their two years in the contin- 
uation school. 

For the school year 1910-11, which was the 
first year for which special provision was made 
in budget for continuation schools, these schools 
had little more than become organised without 
having received the proper equipment for the 
maintenance of the manual subjects. For the 
school year 1911-12, each one of the 12 schools 
allotted was equipped with benches and full manual 
training outfit for from 12 to 24* boys, domestic 



SCHOOLS AND EDUCATION 189 

science equipment for an equal number of girls 
as well as all the requisites for courses in sewing 
and other branches of household economy. For 
the school year 1912-13, continuation schools 
were maintained in 16 municipalities, but only 
13 of these acquired the necessary equipment for 
the work along manual lines. For the coming 
school year our budget provides for 25 continua- 
tion schools, and these have been assigned to the 
following municipalities: Carolina, Rio Grande, 
Fajardo, Naguabo, Vieques, Arroyo, Juncos, 
Caguas, Guayama, Cayey, Aibonito, Coamo, 
Juana Diaz, Yauco, San German, Cabo Rojo, 
Anasco, Lares, Aguadilla, Utuado, Adjuntas, 
Manati, Ciales, Vega Baja, and Bayamon. 

In but few of these towns have separate build- 
ings been erected for the use of the continuation 
schools. In three or four municipalities the boys 
in the continuation schools, under the direction 
of the instructor in manual training, have built 
suitable houses for the installation of the equip- 
ment in manual training. Quite a number of 
school boards are planning to build new school 
houses or additions to present buildings in which 
ample provision will be made for the work in 



190 PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

manual training for boys as well as for girls. 
The course of study for the first year for the 
continuation school comprises, for the boys, two 
daily periods in manual training, and, for the 
girls, a like number of periods in cooking and 
sewing. The work in English consists of a daily 
period in composition and rhetoric and the read- 
ing of English classics. One period a day is 
devoted to Spanish based on the " Gramatica Cas- 
tellana "of the Royal Academy of Spain, and in 
connection with this several masterpieces of Span- 
ish literature are read. In mathematics, algebra 
is studied as far as quadratics. Ancient history 
is given one period a day. For the second year 
of the continuation school the same amount of 
time is given to the practical study of manual 
training and household economy. English and 
Spanish are continued. In mathematics, plane 
geometry is covered, and in some towns work in 
botany has been offered. 

In connection with the continuation school 
maintained in Fajardo during the past year com- 
mercial courses were established. Two teachers 
were assigned to each continuation school, one, 
a specialist in manual training for boys, the other 



SCHOOLS AND EDUCATION 191 

a specialist in household economy, and both com- 
petent to handle the academic subjects mentioned 
above. 

In all the work given in manual training and 
household economy an attempt has been made 
to keep the utilitarian idea in mind all the time. 
Aside from the regular problems usually given 
in woodworking the boys in many instances were 
taught to build and repair fences about the school 
property, construct apparatus for the play- 
grounds, make bookcases for the schools, and to 
repair floors, blackboards, doors, etc., of the 
school buildings. The boys in the continuation 
school at Juncos received instruction in painting 
and masonry as well as in carpentry and joinery. 
These boys drew plans for a miniature house 14 
by 13 by IS feet, with balcony, parlour, dining- 
room, bedroom, kitchen, bath, and toilet room, 
with the complete set of miniature furniture in 
proportion to the size of the house, and this house 
was actually built by the boys as a part of their 
exhibit at the third insular fair held in Feb- 
ruary. The boys laid the foundations for the 
house, installed the plumbing, and did all the 
wiring for the electric lights. The girls made all 



19a PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

the curtains, bedding, table covers, towels, etc., 
for the model house, and it is not an exaggeration 
to say that this exhibit of the continuation school 
of Juncos was one of the most interesting ones 
at the insular fair. 

The total enrolment for the high and contin- 
uation schools for the school year 1912-13 was 
1,744, as compared with 1,197 for the preceding 
year. The average daily enrolment in these 
schools was 1,492 for the past year and the aver- 
age daily attendance 1,381. 

The course of study for the continuation schools 
for the coming year will be as follows: 

JSriNTH GEADE. 

Number of reci- 
tations a week. 
Subjects: 

English 5 

Spanish 5 

Manual training (boys) 5 

Household economy ( girls ) 5 

Industrial and commercial geography 3 

Agriculture (boys ) 2 

Free-hand drawing (girls) 2 

Bookkeeping and arithmetic or algebra 5 

TENTH GEADE. 

English 5 

Spanish ^ 

Manual training (boys) 5 

Household economy (girls) 5 

General history ^ 

Bookkeeping and arithmetic or geometry 3 

Agriculture (boys) 2 



SCHOOLS AND EDUCATION 193 

From the early days of the American school 
system in Porto Rico night schools have been 
maintained in the urban centres to which adults 
were admitted, and some three years ago the de- 
partment authorised the establishment of night 
schools in the rural districts. During the year 
of 1913, 299 night schools were maintained, and 
of the 9,000 students enrolled in March more 
than 40 per cent were over 18 years of age. 

In Porto Rico the compulsory age for attend- 
ing school is from 8 to 14 years, but owing to 
insufficient accommodations it is impossible to 
enrol more than a portion of the children who 
should attend school. 

The average amount expended for each pupil 
in daily attendance on the public schools of Porto 
Rico last year was $13.82, as compared with 
$27.85 in the United States. The per capita ex- 
penditure for public school purposes was $1.45 in 
Porto Rico, as against $4.64 in the United States. 
These figures go to show that public schools, as 
far as they go, are conducted at a far less ex- 
pense in proportion to the number of pupils en- 
rolled than those of the United States, and, it 
might be added, than those of any other country. 



194 PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

As a result of the demand on the part of parents 
to have their children educated and a lack of 
funds to extend the system to meet the demands 
made upon it, schools are greatly overcrowded 
and teachers overburdened. 

The average number of pupils per teacher in 
charge of a room in graded and rural schools 
during the past year was 64.4, which is far in 
excess of the number a teacher should be called 
upon to handle and obtain satisfactory results. 
On the basis of 40 pupils per teacher, Porto Rico 
would need 9,766 teachers to take care of her 
school population, and when we consider that the 
average number of teachers employed by the de- 
partment during the past year was but 1,972? the 
enormity of the problem can be realised. 

In light of the actual condition of affairs, the 
insular legislature at its regular session last 
spring gave the matter serious consideration and 
as a result the appropriation for educational pur- 
poses for the fiscal year 1913-14 is more than 
$1,000,000 in excess of the appropriation for the 
year 191^-13. 



SCHOOLS AND EDUCATION 195 

CHILD LABOUR 

A law was passed regulating the work of chil- 
dren, and protecting them against dangerous oc- 
cupations. This law provides that no child under 
14 years of age who has not received a certificate 
from the department of education to the effect 
that he has finished the work required of the 
third grade of the rural or the eighth grade of 
the graded schools, according to whether he lives 
in the country or in town, can be employed in 
any lucrative occupation during the hours public 
schools are in session. Exception is made, how- 
ever, of those children who reside in a community 
in which there is no school within a reasonable 
distance wherein accommodation can be furnished 
and of any orphan child or one who for any other 
reason depends on his own efforts for support, 
as well as any child whose parents are invalids 
and depend exclusively on the work of the child 
for their maintenance. In these cases the child 
must obtain a certificate from the mayor of the 
town where he resides, authorising him to secure 
employment. These children are, nevertheless, re- 



196 PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

quired to attend a night school when such a school 
is within one kilometre of their residence. 



NIGHT TRADE SCHOOLS 

The demand for skilled workmen in Porto Rico 
is constantly increasing and the crafts have not 
kept pace with the rapid development made in 
modern building construction, or sanitary regula- 
tions. Skilled bricklayers, carpenters, plumbers, 
etc., are comparatively few in number and there 
is no adequate apprenticeship system as in many 
other countries. For these reasons the depart- 
ment of education opened a night trade school in 
San Juan in November, 1912, and for a period of 
five months, on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday 
nights, instruction was given in carpentry, plumb- 
ing, bricklaying, mechanical drawing, and auto- 
mobile mechanics. One hundred and five persons 
over the age of 16 years responded to the roll call 
on the night of the opening of the school, filling 
all departments to the capacity cf the shops, with 
the exception of that of bricklaying. At the ex- 
piration of the five months'- experimental period 
the attendance and interest in the classes in car- 



SCHOOLS AND EDUCATION 197 

pentry, plumbing, bricklaying, and the correlated 
work in mechanical drawing were such that the 
advisability of continuing the work without in- 
terruption was unquestioned. Through the kindly 
interest and cooperation of the Governor, ar- 
rangements were made whereby the instruction 
was continued to the close of the fiscal year. 

The first real test of the efficiency of the work 
being done in this effort to produce skilled me- 
chanics will come in January, 1914, when the class 
in plumbing will appear before the board of ex- 
aminers for plumbers' licenses for the purpose of 
securing authority to practise the trade in Porto 
Kico. 

The plans as now projected call for the con- 
tinuance of the night trade school in San Juan 
without interruption on account of the summer 
vacation and for the organisation of similar 
schools in at least four other cities when the in- 
dustrial school buildings now being constructed 
are ready for occupancy. With the increased 
facilities offered by the new buildings, courses in 
printing, tailoring, shoemaking, and lacemaking 
will also be possible. Applicants for admission to 
the trade schools must be over 16 years of age, 



198 PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

and if unable to read and write, must attend an 
academic night school two nights each week, while 
they are enrolled in a trade school. 

The following table shows the total enrolment, 
the average nightly enrolment, and the average 
attendance in each of the trades taught from the 
date of opening, November 11, 1912, to the close 
of the fiscal year, June 30, 1913 : 



Class. 



Plumbing 

Bricklaying , 

Carpentry , 

Automobile mechanicB * , 
Mechanical drawing t . . . . 



Total 



Total 
enrolment. 



206 



Average 

nightly 

enrolment. 



103 



Average 
attendance. 



* Instruction in automobile mechanics was given for the period covering 
five months. 

+ Students of plumbing, bricklaying, and carpentry are required to take 
courses in mechanical drawing, which are specially designed to meet the 
needs of their respective trades. In addition to these regular students a 
special class was maintained for students who wish to prepare for more ad- 
vanced courses in architectural drawing. 



INSTRUCTION IN AGRICULTURE 



During the school year 191£-13 nine special 
teachers of agriculture were assigned, one to each 
of the following districts: Carolina, Humacao, 
Barros, Juana Diaz, San German, Anasco, Utu- 



SCHOOLS AND EDUCATION 199 

ado, Toa Baja, and Bay anion. These teachers 
received a salary of $60 a month for the calendar 
year and gave theoretical and practical instruc- 
tion to the pupils of both the graded and rural 
schools within their respective districts. Their 
entire time was devoted to the teaching of agri- 
culture, the holding of conferences and classes for 
teachers, conducting public meetings for the 
farmers, and increasing the interest in the culti- 
vation of the soil. According to the reports re- 
ceived over 4,500 children in grades 3 to 8 in the 
urban centres and more than 11,000 pupils en- 
rolled in the rural schools received instruction in 
agriculture. Generally speaking, the teachers of 
agriculture devoted three days a week to the chil- 
dren in the graded schools and two days to those 
of the rural schools. The interest of the farmers 
is shown by the fact that in many instances where 
the school boards did not own a sufficient amount 
of land about the school buildings to permit of 
practical work in agriculture half an acre or more 
has been loaned in order that the children might 
receive the practical instruction. 

Special stress was given to truck gardening in 
all instances, and in some schools model vegetable 



200 PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

gardens were maintained throughout the year. 
The children have grown successfully lettuce, 
radishes, kohl-rabies, turnips, onions, beets, to- 
matoes, beans, okra, cabbage, corn, cotton, sugar 
cane, millet, tobacco, pineapples, coffee, etc. 
School gardens have supplied the domestic science 
departments in the different schools with the nec- 
essary vegetables. In most districts some of the 
vegetables were sold and the proceeds used for 
the purchase of implements, fertilisers, and seeds. 
Pupils were allowed to take some of the vegetables 
to their homes in order to show the parents the 
results of their work and to arouse an interest in 
backyard gardening. Those pupils who wished to 
start vegetable gardens at home were allowed to 
take the agricultural implements after school 
hours and on Saturdays, and in some instances the 
special teachers of agriculture visited their homes 
for the purpose of giving the boys whatever help 
was necessary. One district reports that as a 
result of this the demand for garden seeds has be- 
come so great that four of the local stores have 
put in large stocks of seeds, whereas last year 
only one store carried a very limited amount. In 
most of the districts where agricultural teachers 



SCHOOLS AND EDUCATION 201 

were assigned an exhibition of the garden prod- 
ucts was made by the schools of the district during 
the teachers' institute, and the fact that hundreds 
of parents and farmers visited the exhibition is 
proof of the interest aroused in favour of prac- 
tical gardening. 

Nature study is a required subject in the first 
four grades of the common schools, and in dis- 
tricts where no special teachers of agriculture 
were assigned courses in this subject and in ele- 
mentary agriculture were very closely correlated. 
Each of the special teachers of agriculture worked 
out a special course based on the conditions ex- 
isting in his district and submitted it to the com- 
missioner for approval. 

COOKING 

Instruction in cooking has been offered to the 
girls enrolled in the upper grades in 14 towns of 
the island during the past school year; the total 
number of girls taking advantage of this instruc- 
tion being 445. In almost every instance the 
equipment and supplies for this work were fur- 
nished by the school boards, at a total expense of 



202 PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

about thirteen hundred dollars. Special emphasis 
has been laid on the essentials and the work made 
as practical as possible. Although in most in- 
stances the conditions were such that it was im- 
possible to give the girls instruction in preparing 
and serving meals, nevertheless they were taught 
to make practical menus, and to estimate the cost 
of meals. The importance of cleanliness, variety, 
good serving, regular meal hours, and thorough 
mastication has been duly emphasised. It is grati- 
fying to note the increased interest shown by 
pupils and parents in this line of work, and in 
almost every instance the instruction received has 
been put to practical use by the girls in their 
homes. 

For the coming school year classes in cooking 
will be made obligatory for all girls enrolled in 
the upper three grammar grades. The budget 
of the department of education makes provision 
for a sufficient number of teachers of household 
economy to supply every town of the island with 
at least one instructor, and the course as out- 
lined will provide for three hours' work per week 
in cooking and two hours a week in sewing to be 



SCHOOLS AND EDUCATION 203 

given during the regular hours by teachers who 
have received special preparation for the work. 



SEWING 

During the school year 1912-13, instruction in 
sewing was offered to the girls enrolled in the 
graded schools of 63 of the 70 municipalities of 
the island. A total of 6,329 young ladies took 
advantage of the work offered. As compared with 
the preceding year this represents an increase of 
1,329 girls who were benefited by the courses 
given and an increase of nine towns in which the 
courses were established. Generally speaking, the 
classes were taught outside of regular school 
hours each day of the week, including Saturdays, 
and, wherever possible, the teachers connected 
with the common schools, who had received special 
training for the work, were obtained. In the 
lower grades simple hygiene has been combined 
with instruction in sewing, and the reasons for' 
personal neatness taught. In the upper grades 
notebooks with simple stitches and compositions 
on the manufacture of articles of daily use, such 
as pins, needles, different kinds of cloth, etc., are 



204. PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

kept. Many of the articles made in these special 
classes in sewing were on exhibition in the Educa- 
tional Building at the Third Insular Fair held in 
February, and proved a source of deep interest to 
the general public. In not a few instances articles 
made in these classes were distributed among the 
poor children to enable them to attend school, and 
others were sold. As a general rule, the articles 
made by the girls were retained by them upon pay- 
ment of the actual cost of the material employed. 
Among the articles made in the different towns of 
the island may be mentioned: 

Handbags, dresses, aprons, pincushions, patch- 
work, quilts, men's shirts, handkerchiefs, pillow- 
cases, chemises, table-cloths, napkins, undershirts, 
petticoats, shirt-waists, slippers, lunch-cloths, 
doilies, towels, caps, corset-covers, nightgowns, 
and a great deal of drawn work and embroidery. 

SCHOOIi BANDS 

The evening concert in the public plaza, with 
its accompanying gathering and promenade, is an 
old institution in Porto Rico, and it has in a way 
compensated for the lack of parks and other 



SCHOOLS AND EDUCATION ^05 

suitable resorts for the recreation of the people. 
Lovers of music by inheritance and endowed with 
special aptitude for it, the people have demanded 
that the schools provide this instruction. What 
the department has not been able to offer for lack 
of funds the local school authorities have at- 
tempted to supply, in part, with the creation of 
school bands. Some of these are wholly supported 
by the school boards out of the funds at their 
disposal; others are supported conjointly by ap- 
propriation of the school boards and donations 
from the town councils ; and the others are sup- 
ported by these two and public subscription. 

The instruction is usually given in one of the 
schoolrooms where the instruments are kept. 
The school bands now own 864 instruments, ex- 
clusive of a great number which the pupils have 
bought for themselves. The bands generally play 
at all school exercises, athletic meets, school cele- 
brations, and in the public plazas certain evenings 
each month. The majority of the bands are uni- 
formed, the money for uniforms being raised by 
public subscription. 

The extension of the moving-picture shows 
throughout the island has given the schoolboys the 



206 PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

opportunity to market their musical ability. In 
a number of towns the music at these shows is 
furnished entirely by schoolboys who have learned 
to play in the school bands. One supervising prin- 
cipal reports that his boys receive from $0.50 to 
$1 per night for playing at the shows. In other 
towns some boys are supporting their parents with 
what they earn playing. 

PLAYGROUNDS AND PHYSICAL CULTURE 

The past school year has been one of continued 
progress and interest as related to the develop- 
ment and furtherance of the public-school play- 
ground movement, which was initiated some five 
years ago. The table on opposite page shows the 
increase from year to year in the number of towns 
providing playground facilities for children; the 
amount of land utilised for the purpose; the 
amount of money expended for purchase of sites, 
equipment, etc. ; and the number of public-school 
children making use of the facilities furnished. 



SCHOOLS AND EDUCATION 



207 



School Yeab. 


Towns 
with play- 
grounds. 


Land set 
aside for 

play- 
grounds. 


Money 
spent for 

play- 
grounds. 


Children 
using ur- 
ban play- 
grounds. 


1908-9 


27 

45 
52 
58 
61 


Acres. 
24 
BO 
58 
59 
61^ 


$3,000 
8,250 
19,746 
30,737 
43,209 


5,000 


1909 10 


15,000 


1910-11 


18,420 


1911-12 


23,902 


1912-13 


26,564 







Athletics have been engaged in more or less 
since the American school system was organised in 
Porto Rico, but up to the time the public-school 
playgrounds were established a very small per- 
centage of the pupils enrolled participated, 
thereby limiting the influence and benefits of out- 
door sports. During recent years, through the 
establishment of playgrounds and the introduc- 
tion of simple competitive games and contests, 
enabling all the pupils to take part, a much larger 
percentage of the pupils have received the direct 
benefits to be obtained from play in the open air. 

SCHOOIi CELEBRATIONS 



Lack of familiarity with the language used as 
the medium of instruction is a serious handicap 
to the establishment of active cooperation between 



WS PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

the parents and the schools. The former are 
obliged to accept many things on faith. Legal 
and school holidays have been celebrated by pu- 
pils and teachers alike with great enthusiasm, 
and these fiestas have never failed to attract and 
interest the parents. The exercises, accompanied 
by music, songs, drills, parades, etc., speak 
to the parents in a familiar language, and the 
spirit, activity, and happiness which the medium 
of instruction veils from them are revealed in the 
clearer terms of the school fiesta. In thus estab- 
lishing a bond between the people and the school 
these celebrations have proved of inestimable value. 

Thanksgiving Day, Arbour Day, which is cele- 
brated the Friday following Thanksgiving ; Wash- 
ington's Birthday, Abolition Day (March 22), 
and Decoration Day are the recognised school 
holidays. These have been supplemented by Lin- 
coln's Birthday, Parents' Day, Christmas, and 
Closing Day. 

Thanksgiving is generally celebrated in con- 
nection with Arbour Day. In some districts the 
children bring donations of money, provisions, or 
clothes, which are given to the poor, in thankful- 
ness for the blessings received during the year. 



SCHOOLS AND EDUCATION 209 

The school authorities see to it that the gifts of 
the children go to worthy hands. 

Arbour Day, which fell on November 29, 1912, 
is, perhaps, the most elaborate celebration of the 
year and the one productive of the most immedi- 
ate and lasting results for the welfare of all con- 
cerned. The department publishes each year an 
Arbour Day manual of exercises containing pro- 
grams, recitations, songs, and detailed instruc- 
tions regarding the preparation of the soil, plant- 
ing, etc. While the musical and literary parts of 
the celebration receive due share of attention, 
more and more time has been devoted of recent 
years to the planting of trees and flowers. School 
surroundings and gardens are cleaned and put in 
condition by the children themselves. In many 
instances fences are repaired or built, and in still 
other cases similar work is done around the home, 
the celebration thus losing much of its traditional 
perfunctoriness. 

GROWTH OF SCHOOL SYSTEM 

The growth of the school system during the 
past few years is shown in the following table: 



aiO PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 



Ybab. 


Amount 

appropriated 

for 

education. 


Total en- 
rolment in 
public 
schools. 


Amount 

per 

pupil 

enrolled. 


1900-1901 


$4.35,565.28 

597,688.36 

723,111.30 

778,474.90 

868,596.45 

913,808.38 

997,386.79 

1,257,018.51 

1,413,516.68 

1,387,576.03 

1,463,948.64 

1,681,237,66 

1,902,711.68 

3,014,740.00 


33,802 
61,863 

'63*566 

68,855 
68,828 
71,696 
79,752 
105,125 
121,453 
145,525 
100,657 
161,785 


$12.89 


1901-2 


9.66 


1903 3 




1903 4 


12.22 


1904-5 


12.61 


3905-6 . . 


13.28 


1906-7 


13.91 


1907 8 


15.76 


1908 9 


13.45 


1909 10 . . 


11.42 


1910 11 


10 06 


1911 12 


10.46 


1912-13 


11.76 


1913 14 











Total 
number 


Enrolled 


Enrolled 


Enrolled 
in sec- 
ondary 
schools 
Mar. 1, 
1913. 


Enrolled 


Total 
enrolled 
Mar. 1, 

1913. 


Per 




children 


in graded 


in rural 


in night 


cent 


AsBS. 


in Porto 
Rican 


schools 
Mar. 1, 


schools 
Mar. 1, 


schools 
Mar.l, 


enrolled 
Mar. 1, 




Census 
1910. 


1913. 


1913. 


1913. 


1913. 


5 

6 


32,722 
31,163 


1 252 


2,160 
6,408 






3,412 


10.4 


2,734 




7 


9,149 


29.3 


7 


33,956 


3,864 


9,814 


........ 


9 


13,687 


40.3 


8 


31,909 


4,624 


11,496 





40 


16,160 


50.6 


9 


21,472 


4,725 


9,927 




68 


14,720 


68.5 


10 


33,294 


5.733 


12,017 





180 


17,930 


53.8 


11 


22,892 


4,416 


8,086 





162 


12,644 


55.3 


12 


36,545 


5,414 


9,762 




465 


15,641 


42.7 


13 


22,988 


4,616 


6,931 


5 


486 


12,038 


52.3 


14 


28,032 


4.033 


4,383 


53 


808 


9,277 


33.1 


15 


26,859 


2,544 


2,024 


136 


840 


5,544 


20.6 


16 


23,354 


1,495 


663 


288 


765 


3,211 


13.3 


17 


16,781 


772 


226 


418 


589 


2,005 


11.9 


18 


28,672 


308 


95 


287 


895 


1,585 


5.5 


Total. 


390,639 


46,530 


83,992 


1,187 


5,314 


137,003 


35.07 



SCHOOLS AND EDUCATION 



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2ia PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

STATEMENT OP CASH RECEIPTS AND DISBURSEMENTS FOR 
THE YEAR ENDING JUNE 30, 1913. 





Insular. 


Trust funds. 


Total. 


Cash balance as of July 1, 1912. . . . 


$1,794,554.46 


$1,328,828.68 


$3,123,383.14 


Receipts: 
Customs .... 


1,028,291.95 

2,530,173.93 

177,585.21 

24,897.74 

260,875.52 
120,048.82 
17,126.37 
65,635.92 
83,863.21 
14,681.08 
22,926.08 
11,012.68 
10,722.47 


■i,635V409.62 


1,028,291.95 


Internal revenues.. 

Property taxes 

Inheritance taxes 


4,165,583.55 
177,585.21 
24,897.74 


Municipal license fees on account 
of sanitation . . 




260,875.52 


Court fines and fees 

Harbour and dock fees .... 


7,071.29 
27,657.93 


127,120.11 
44,784,30 


Telephone and telegraph receipts. 
Interest 


65,635.92 
102,694.71 


18,831.50 




14,681.08 


Taxes on insurance premiums... 
Rent of property 




22 926 08 




11,012.68 


Sale of Government property. . . . 
United States Government (Mor- 
rill-Hatch Act^ 




10,722.47 
51,656.62 


51,656.62 

460,445.81 

1,113,846.94 


Miscellaneous 

Proceeds from sales of bonds 

Bureau of supplies, printing and 
transportation, repayments 

Repayments of loans by munici- 
palities 

Repayments of loans by school 


14,703.04 

753,403.43 

115,831.51 

25,064.74 

144,707.32 

5,500.00 


475,148.85 
1,113,846.94 

753,403.43 

115,831.51 

25,064.74 






Other repayments 

Transfers. 


■■"38,492.55 


144,707.32 
43,992.55 


Insular government receipts. . . 


5,427,051.02 


3,353,412.26 


8,780,463.28 


Total 


7,221,605.48 


4,682,240.94 


11,903,846.42 


Disbursements: 
Appropriations— 
1910-11 


3,038.93 
238,600.25 

3,875,184.78 
761,513.07 

1,373,985.99 




3,083.93 


1911-12. 




238 600 25 


1912-13 




3,875,184.78 

761,513.07 

1,373,985.99 

1,052,975.43 


Indefinite 




No fiscal year . . 


'i,052,*975.43 

565,935.43 

79,192.64 

1,181,087.86 

16,830.49 

152,632.60 

33,518.66 

38,351.70 

11,962.00 

10,546.54 
31,047.05 

55,778.36 








565,935.43 

79,192.64 

1,181,087.86 

16,830.49 


Insular bond redemption, .... 













University of Porto Rico .... 




152 632 60 






33,518.66 


Taxes paid under protest 




38,351.70 


Cash bond deposits 




11,962.00 

10,546.54 
31,047.05 
94,270.91 


Construction of harbour improve- 




Miscellaneous 


Repayments and transfers 


38,492.55 


Total 


6,291,580.57 


3.229,858.76 


9,521,439.33 




Balance as of June 30, 1913 .... 


930,024.91 


1,452,382.18 


2,382,407.09 




Grand total 


$7,221,605.48 


$4,682,240.94 


$11,903,846.42 





CHAPTER XIX 

AUTOMOBILE LAWS AND REGULATIONS 

Porto Rico is a paradise for autoists, and while 
quite a number of visitors take their cars to the 
island each year, yet comparatively few Amer- 
icans realise how simple it is to transport their 
machines to the island or how advantageous is 
this method of " seeing " Porto Rico. 

The ships of the New York-Porto Rico Steam- 
ship Co. make a specialty of carrying automobiles 
and the rates are very low, $25.00 each way for 
Ford cars and from $35.00 to $50,000 for larger 
cars. The Brazos and! some of the other ships 
carry the machines in the open hold and run them 
in through open ports in the ship's side. The 
smaller ships lower the cars into the hold by spe- 
cially designed slings. No crating is required, 
but cars are taken at owners' risk and it is wise to 
insure machines before shipment. As the salt at- 
mosphere and air of the hold corrode brass and 
nickel it is best to cover all lamps and other bright 
metal work with cloth or other protectors. Upon 
213 



214 PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

landing in Porto Rico it is necessary to obtain an 
insular license, which costs $5.00 per year, but 
a temporary license for transients may be taken 
out at $2.00 per month. The license is obtained 
at the office of the Department of the Interior in 
the Intendencia Building at the northern end of 
the Plaza Principal. The yearly license requires 
two number plates, while the temporary license 
requires but one tag on the rear of the machine. 
For the plates a deposit of $1.25 is required, which 
is refunded when the plates are returned at the 
expiration of the license. 

The automobile laws of the island are very 
liberal and are in condensed form as follows : 

" The person acquiring an automobile already 
licensed shall be required only to notify the Com- 
missioner of his name and of the number of the 
automobile. The license shall be deemed to be 
transferred with the automobile. While within 
the urban zone of a municipality, automobiles 
shall not travel at a pace faster than 16 kilo- 
metres an hour. Every motor-propelled vehicle, 
except motor cycles, shall carry during the period 
from one half-hour after sunset to one half-hour 
before sunrise at least two lighted lamps showing 
white visible at least 250 feet in the direction to^ 
wards which said motor vehicle is proceeding, and 



AUTOMOBILE LAWS ^15 

shall also exhibit one red light visible in the re- 
verse direction. Every motor cycle shall carry 
one lighted lamp showing a white light visible at 
least 200 feet ahead. Drivers of motor vehicles 
must exercise every reasonable precaution to pre- 
vent frightening horses and if requested must 
come to a full stop and stop the motor until the 
animal appears to be under control. While 
rounding a curve, approaching a crossing or any 
person on the road, the operator of a motor 
vehicle must give due warning and reduce his 
speed to such limit as will ensure safety. When 
stopping remove machine as far as possible to one 
side of road. Penalties: Fine not to exceed 
$50.00. — Imprisonment not to exceed 60 days. — 
Revocation of license." 

There is also a local ordinance in San Juan 
requiring drivers to leave some person in charge 
of a machine while standing and wherever a car 
stops it is at once surrounded by a group of boys, 
each anxious to earn five or ten cents by guarding 
the machine. These boys are perfectly honest and 
there is no danger of their meddling with the car 
or taking any articles. Several of the streets in 
San Juan can only be traversed in one direction, 
and several of these have signs at one end and 
not at the other, or at intervening crossings, so 
that the stranger is very apt to turn into such 



S16 PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

a street without realising that he is violating the 
traffic laws. In such cases some bystander will 
usually call attention to the rule, and the car 
must be backed out without delay. The traffic 
officers in San Juan are quite efficient and are 
very courteous, but as they do not speak or under- 
stand English, it is sometimes difficult to under- 
stand their instructions or to make known your 
queries unless you speak Spanish. In rounding 
a corner care should be taken not to run over the 
policeman. It is not customary to turn the corner 
close to the curb or to swing far to the right when 
turning to the left, but rather to turn near the 
centre of the street, while the policeman stands at 
one side. 

Although the ordinary rules of the road are 
followed in Porto Rico, yet the natives, — espe- 
cially the drivers of mule carts and those riding 
horseback are rather regardless of such trivialities, 
and one must use considerable caution in passing 
or overtaking other vehicles and the horn must 
be sounded repeatedly. The heavy, lumbering 
bull carts will usually pull to one side and allow 
a machine to pass as soon as they hear the horn, 
but the oxen and bulls are slow and it often re- 



AUTOMOBILE LAWS ai7 

quires several minutes to navigate one of the great 
carts to the side of the road. The Porto Rican 
chauffeurs are reckless and wild drivers and will 
take risks and perform most unexpected stunts, 
and one can never be sure just what one of these 
men will do until after he has passed. In the 
mountains one should proceed slowly and cau- 
tiously; the turns are sharp, and a truck, cart, 
car, or carriage may be just around the bend 
and as often as not on the wrong side of the road. 
In the outlying districts there is no speed limit 
and each urban zone is plainly marked with large 
white wooden signs advising the traveller that 
autos must reduce speed to 16 kilometres an hour 
until the next sign shows that the urban zone is 
passed. 

Most of the roads have excellent bridges over 
the streams, but on some of the coast roads it is 
necessary to ford numerous rivers. These are 
seldom deeper than the hubs of a car except after 
a heavy rain, and in such cases a bull team or 
mules will often be found waiting beside the river 
to haul machines across the ford. 

The autoist in Porto Rico need not fear that 
he cannot secure supplies, tires, or other acces- 



218 PORTO RICO PAST AND PRESENT 

series or that repairs cannot be made. There are 
a number of well-stocked supply stores in San 
Juan and the other larger towns and garages are 
numerous. The charges in Porto Rican garages 
are very low, much lower than in the United States, 
and the work is well and conscientiously done. 
Gasolene can be purchased at every town and vil- 
lage on the island and in many of the smallest 
" barrios " or outlying settlements. Along the 
coast and in the larger towns on the main roads 
gasolene sells for about the same price as in New 
York, but in the interior, where transportation is 
difficult, the price may be two or three times as 
high. For this reason it is advisable to invaria- 
bly carry a supply of gasolene purchased at the 
large towns for use in case of emergency. The 
atmosphere of Porto Rico and the numerous 
grades necessitating a great deal of low and sec- 
ond-speed travelling add greatly to the fuel con- 
sumption, and it is seldom possible to obtain 
more than one-half or two-thirds the mileage from 
the fuel that one is accustomed to obtaining in 
the States. In many places the high altitudes 
cause a motor to miss fire, but as this trouble lasts 



AUTOMOBILE LAWS 219 

but a short time and the motor resumes its normal 
condition when the lower levels are reached, it is 
seldom necessary to readjust the carburetor un- 
less the engine misses so much that it is difficult 
to pull the hills. 



B 



Jt?J 



ra Cji^^ 



PART II 
THE DOMINICAN REPUBLIC 



¥f 



CHAPTER I 

HISTORY OF THE REPUBLIC 

It was on December 6, 1492, that Columbus, sail- 
ing through the Caribbean Sea, discovered a most 
beautiful and fertile island which he called His- 
paniola. That was over four hundred and twenty 
years ago, and yet Hispaniola, or as it is now 
called, Santo Domingo, is almost as unknown to 
the outside world as it was in those far-ofF days. 
And this notwithstanding that it is the second 
largest, the richest, and the most fertile of the 
Antilles ; that here was founded the first European 
settlement in the New World; that its capital is 
the oldest European city in the Western Hemi- 
sphere and that within its borders repose the 
bones of Columbus himself. 

Columbus first landed at or near the present 
site of the Mole St. Nicolas in Haiti, and having 
taken possession of the new land in the name of 
Spain, he sailed easterly along the coast. At 
the spot where now stands Cape Haitien the flag- 
ship Santa Maria was wrecked upon a reef and 



^24 SAN DOMINGO OF TO-DAY 

Columbus and his men were forced to accept the 
hospitality of the Indian cazique while the wreck- 
age was being brought ashore and built into a fort 
or tower. Here he left forty of his men, and 
sailing along the northern coast of the island, he 
visited the various harbours and bays now known 
as Monte Christi, Puerta Plata, and Samana be- 
fore he returned to Spain. 

In the following year he returned to the West 
Indies, and visiting Cape Haitien, found his fort 
destroyed and his men massacred. From this spot 
he turned eastward, looking for a favourable 
place to found a settlement, and finally landed at 
a spot near the present town of Puerta Plata. 
Here he built several stone buildings, among them 
a small chapel, and started a settlement, — the 
first in the New World, — which he named Isabella. 

Although Isabella endured but a short time, yet 
other settlements were soon made, and in 1496 
Bartholomew Columbus, a brother of Christopher, 
founded the city of San Domingo, from which the 
island took its name, the original native appella- 
tion being Haiti, meaning " High Land," and 
which was rejected in favour of Hispaniola by the 
discoverers. 



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HISTORY OF THE EEPUBLIC 225 

From this early beginning the island was rap- 
idly settled, towns sprung up everywhere, mines 
were discovered and worked, and soon San Do- 
mingo became the richest and most prosperous 
of the Indies. For many years the island re- 
mained in undisputed possession of the Spaniards, 
until in 1795 Spain, by the treaty of Bale, ceded 
the entire island to France. After the downfall 
of Napoleon and the restoration of the Bourbons 
the eastern portion was returned to Spain, the 
portion now called Haiti remaining as a colony 
of France. In 1822 the Spanish district placed 
itself under Haitien rule, but resumed its auton- 
omy after the revolution of 1843, and fearing 
conquest by the Haitiens, it voluntarily went 
under the Spanish Crown in 1861. Two years 
later the Dominicans revolted against Spanish 
domination, and in 1865 Spain relinquished her 
attempts to retain her once great colony and the 
Dominican Republic became an independent 
country. 



CHAPTER II 

GEOGRAPHY, CLIMATE, AND RESOURCES 

Although Santo Domingo appears a small spot 
on the map, yet in reality it is very large. From 
Monte Christi on the north to Cape Beata on the 
south the island measures 175 miles, and from 
Cape Engano (65 miles from Porto Rico) to Cape 
Tiburon, the western extremity, is nearly five hun- 
dred miles. The area of the island is nearly 
twenty-nine thousand square miles, or nearly as 
large as the State of Maine; one-fourth larger 
than Vermont, Massachusetts, Rhode Island, and 
Connecticut combined ; three times the size of Bel- 
gium ; twice the size of Denmark, and only a trifle 
smaller than Portugal or Ireland. Moreover, this 
refers only to the main island, and in addition 
there are several large islands adjacent to the 
coasts and some of which are larger than any of 
the lesser Antilles. Among these is Gonalve, 40 
miles in length; the Island of Tortuga, 22 miles 
long and 5 miles in width; La Saona, nearly as 
large as Tortuga and Alta Vela, a huge, conical 
336 



GEOGRAPHY AND CLIMATE 227 

pile; all of which, with islets of smaller size, 
add more than six hundred square miles to the 
area of Santo Domingo. The island is divided 
into two independent republics known as Haiti 
and the Dominican Republic, the former occu- 
pying about one-third of the island on the 
west, the latter including the remaining two- 
thirds. 

Although both of these republics occupy the 
same island and are separated only by an imag- 
inary boundary line, yet in habits, manners, peo- 
ple, and language they are as distinct as though 
situated on different continents. Whereas the 
Haitiens speak a French patois and French laws 
and customs prevail, the Dominicans speak Span- 
ish and are Spanish in manner, appearance, and 
tem.perament. While the Haitiens are opposed to 
foreigners and discourage foreign capital, busi- 
ness, or professions, the Dominicans welcome out- 
siders and offer every encouragement to foreign 
investors, business men, and industries. Whereas 
the population of Haiti is nine-tenths black and 
the country is backward and retrogressive, the 
people of the Dominican Republic are progressive 
and keenly alive to the importance of sanitation. 



SAN DOMINGO OF TO-DAY 

improvements, and development, and less than one- 
third of the population are negroes. 

In the Haitien towns the streets are rough, 
dirty, undrained ; the large buildings are few and 
far between ; neglect and decay are on every hand, 
and modern improvements are conspicuously lack- 
ing. In the Dominican cities the streets are 
straight, clean, smooth, and well kept, while large 
and imposing buildings are numerous and street 
cars, telephones, electric lights, and modern con- 
veniences abound. But in one feature both re- 
publics are similar; they are torn by frequent 
revolutions and have not yet learned that peace 
spells prosperity. Nevertheless there is such a 
vast difference between the two countries, such a 
wonderful change in travelling from Haiti to the 
Dominican Republic, that as one visitor expressed 
it, " It is like travelling through a tunnel and sud- 
denly coming into the daylight." 

In itself, the Dominican Republic contains about 
nineteen thousand square miles or four times 
the area of Connecticut with a population almost 
the same as that State. The climate is delightful 
and healthy ; yellow fever is unknown and malaria 
is rare, but in certain sections typhoid fever is 



GEOGRAPHY AND CLIMATE 229 

prevalent. The temperature on the coast during 
the winter months varies from 80° to 84° during 
the day to 48'' or 50° at night, and during the sum- 
mer from 86° or 90° in the day to 70° or 75° at 
night. This great variation between day and night 
and summer and winter is due to the northerly 
winds that prevail from sunrise to sunset during 
the winter and the easterly and southerly winds 
that blow during the summer months. In the 
mountains and on the plains of the interior the 
climate averages several degrees lower throughout 
the year but the extreme variations do not occur. 

The country is very rough, consisting of high 
mountain ranges and deep valleys interspersed 
with broad level plains, dense swamps, and rolling 
savannas and is marvellously well watered and fer- 
tile. Three enormous rivers flow through the re- 
public, the largest being the Yaqui del Norte, which 
rises near Mount Rucillo in the centre of the island 
and flows northwesterly and empties into the 
ocean at Manzanillo Bay, on the northern coast. 
The Yaqui of the South, or San Juan River, rises 
in the mountains near the Haitien frontier and 
flows south into Barahona Bay, while the Colorado 
or Yuma River rises near Santiago in the north- 



230 SAN DOMINGO OF TO-DAY 

ern part of the republic and flows easterly into the 
Bay of Samana. In addition to these three great 
streams there are numerous other large rivers and 
countless smaller watercourses, which, with their 
tributaries, form a perfect network through the 
country. There are few lakes or ponds, but in the 
southwestern part of the republic are the three 
large lakes of Enriquillo, Limon, and Rincon, the 
first a fresh water lake with no visible outlet and 
with a good-sized island, " Cabritos," in its centre. 

The island is exceedingly mountainous, — the 
most mountainous of the West Indies, — and con- 
tains numerous peaks over six thousand feet in 
height with Mount Loma Tina the highest moun- 
tain in the Antilles rising to nearly eleven thou- 
sand feet above the sea. 

Between the northern and southern mountains 
is a great, level, elevated plain, the " Vega Real," 
while the southeastern portion of the Republic and 
many other portions of the country consist prin- 
cipally of rolling meadow or savanna lands. 

Only a small portion of the republic is under 
cultivation, the bulk of the land being covered with 
dense forests containing innumerable valuable 
woods, such as mahogany, Spanish cedar, satin- 



GEOGRAPHY AND CLIMATE 231 

wood, lancewood, green-heart, ebony, logwood, 
purple-heart, yellow-wood, lignum-vitae, etc., while 
vast forests of long-leaf pine cover many of the 
interior mountainsides. Aside from its agricul- 
tural and lumber resources the Dominican Repub- 
lic abounds with mineral wealth. It was from this 
island that gold was first obtained by white men in 
America and the first gold sent from the New 
World to Spain was found in the portion of the 
island now known as the Dominican Republic. 

Although Columbus found the natives wearing 
gold nuggets as ornaments yet it was not until he 
entered the mouth of the Yaqui River in January, 
1493, that the Spaniards first discovered the yellow 
metal in its natural state. For over four hundred 
years gold has been taken from the sands and 
streams of this land and yet to-day native women 
frequently wash out from six to seven ounces of 
gold each week, and it is an exception rather than 
a rule to find a Dominican river where gold does 
not occur and yet the mother lode has never been 
discovered. Silver also occurs in considerable 
quantities, copper is abundant, iron occurs in vari- 
ous places and a good quality of lignite is found 
on the Samana Peninsula. Mercury, manganese, 



SAN DOMINGO OF TO-DAY 

lead, tin, bismuth, and nickel are found in the re- 
public; there are deposits of alum, kaolin, and 
valuable clays ; petroleum exists in large quan- 
tities ; there is a mountain of pure salt near Lake 
Enriquillo, amber is found at Samana, and pre- 
cious stones have been found at various places. 
Throughout the republic there are valuable min- 
eral and medicinal springs and yet these wonder- 
ful natural resources have been scarcely touched 
or developed. Truly, the Dominican Republic is 
a land of vast resources and untold opportunities, 
and if once a stable government can be established 
and maintained it will prove the most important 
and' richest of the Antilles ; a land with all the 
advantages of the tropics, with an ideal climate, 
wonderful fertility, unexcelled harbours, and mag- 
nificent scenery. The republic is free from ven- 
omous snakes, there are no volcanoes, it is prac- 
tically outside the earthquake belt and is rarely 
visited by hurricanes. 



CHAPTER III 

THE PEOPLE AND THEIR WAYS 

The people of the Dominican Republic are mainly 
of Spanish descent, some pure white, others mixed 
with negro blood, others with an admixture of In- 
dian, and still others a combination of white, 
Indian, and negro. While the pure black, 
or nearly black, negro is far less in evidence 
than in Haiti, yet numerically there are many 
blacks in the republic. Along the coast and 
on the plantations there are immense numbers 
of negroes from Turks Islands, the Bahamas, Ja- 
maica, and the other West Indies, while at Monte 
Christi and in other localities there are a good 
many native San Domingo and Haitien blacks. In 
other localities the blacks are scattered among the 
other people so that they are scarcely noticeable, 
and while the Dominican Republic cannot by 
any stretch of the imagination be called a " black 
republic," yet it is distinctly a coloured one. 
Here and there are towns known as " white towns " 
where the pure whites of Spanish descent outnum- 
233 



S34 SAN DOMINGO OF TO-DAY 

ber the inhabitants of mixed blood and proud in- 
deed are these people of their long line of un- 
broken ancestry which they can trace direct from 
the old hidalgos and grandees of Spain. In most 
places, however, the coloured races outnumber the 
whites, but the colour is far lighter than in most of 
the West Indies and to a superficial observer a 
large portion of them would pass for white. There 
seems to be no colour line drawn in the republic, 
for men and women of pure white, coloured, or 
black skins are seen mingling and conversing 
freely. Whites and blacks intermarry, blacks hold 
office on an equality with the white and coloured 
races and on every hand are evidences that the 
Dominicans consider all men equal, regardless of 
the colour of their skin. In reality, however, there 
Is more or less of a colour distinction among the 
upper classes, but owing to the mixture of races, 
which has gone on for centuries, it is impossible to 
have a colour prejudice or distinction as we 
know it. 

No matter whether they are black, brown, or 
white, the Dominicans are a pleasant people and 
immeasurably superior in every way to their Hal- 
tien neighbours and to many of the other West In- 



PEOPLE AND THEIR WAYS 235 

dians. Many of the Dominicans are highly edu- 
cated in the great universities of Europe and 
America and among them there are artists, authors, 
poets, musicians, historians, engineers, diplomats, 
soldiers, clergymen, sculptors, and architects that 
would be a credit to any country. 

The Dominicans have few native customs, their 
greatest national peculiarity being their fondness 
for revolutions. Apparently, the Dominicans ac- 
quired the habit in their wars for independence 
and having once become infected with the " insur- 
recto " germ, they cannot overcome their tendency 
to revolt on any and every occasion. While the 
loss of life during these periodical revolutions is 
comparatively small — considering the number of 
the combatants and the amount of powder burned, 
— yet their ejQPect upon the progress and welfare 
of the country is incalculable. Not only is the 
actual damage done to estates, villages, and plan- 
tations very extensive, but the majority of the 
male population is forced to turn soldiers, thus 
leaving the crops to be uncared for and neglected. 
In addition the unstable character of the govern- 
ment prevents foreign capital from being invested, 
frightens foreign investors and colonists away, and 



236 SAN DOMINGO OF TO-DAY 

gives the republic a reputation that it will take 
many years to overcome. 

The Dominicans seem to look upon these insur- 
rections as almost a pastime, and while they fight 
viciously and show conspicuous bravery at times, 
yet they are such execrable shots and so poorly 
drilled and equipped that their fights are more like 
those of a comic opera than a real war. 

There never seems to be any real hard feeling 
between the two sides in these " scraps," and laugh- 
able situations at times occur. On one occasion, I 
saw two Dominicans, belonging to opposite polit- 
ical parties, engaged in " sniping " at one another 
across a road. After some time one of the men 
stood his gun against a tree, felt of his pockets, 
and waving a white rag to his enemy, called out 
" Tiene V. cigarillo? " (Have you a cigarette .'' ) 
In response to this flag of truce the second combat- 
ant laid aside his gun, fumbled in his pocket, and 
after a moment joyfully replied, " Si, Seiior, venga 
aqui." 

Thereupon both of my warlike friends aban- 
doned their weapons, advanced to the centre of the 
road, squatted down and contentedly puffed away 
at the cigarettes, finally parting excellent friends 



PEOPLE AND THEIR WAYS 23T 

and quite forgetting their differences, for the time 
being at least. In this case cigarettes certainly 
proved a blessing rather than a curse. 

Even during the height of a revolutionary bat- 
tle it is not unusual for the opposing forces to 
draw up and pose in order to have their pictures 
taken by some photographer, to be sold later in the 
form of picture postcards. 

In one way, however, the Dominican revolution- 
ists excel those of all other Spanish-American 
countries, — they seldom molest foreigners or in- 
jure their property. I have known of several in- 
stances where an attack on a town or on the 
intrenchments of the enemy was actually delayed 
while the soldiers removed the goods and chattels 
of some foreigner out of harm's way, and on one 
occasion a detail from the " army " was ordered 
to unload a vessel in a besieged port for fear that 
the owner, a foreigner, would suffer if the vessel 
delayed in discharging. 

Even in the height of battle, Americans or other 
foreigners are usually perfectly safe. A friend of 
the author once landed at Macoris and with a 
companion from the ship wandered about the town 
after nightfall. Presently they were startled at 



S38 SAN DOMINGO OF TO-DAY 

hearing rifle shots and to their surprise discovered 
that rebels had attacked the town and they were 
caught in the line of fire between the opposing 
forces. The two Americans at once cried out that 
they were strangers and Americans and immedi- 
ately a rebel officer stepped forward while the fir- 
ing ceased. As soon as the identity of the stran- 
gers was established a detail of armed rebels was 
ordered to convey the Americans safely to their 
ship. In the meantime a federal officer arrived 
under a flag of truce and insisted that no rebel 
guard could alone accompany the strangers, for if 
anything befell them he would be held accountable, 
and finally it was agreed that hostilities on both 
sides should be temporarily suspended while an 
armed guard, composed of equal numbers of fed- 
erals and rebels, conveyed the Americans to their 
steamer. 

The money of the Dominican Republic consists 
of both the native Dominican silver and United 
States currency, the latter being the standard and 
common medium of the country. The Dominican 
money is used in the country and interior, and to 
some extent in the cities as small change, but it is 
only accepted at a fraction of its face value where- 



PEOPLE AND THEIR WAYS 239 

as American money is used at its full face value. 
This peculiar state of affairs has come about 
through the fact that since April, 1905, the 
United States has been in charge of the customs \ 
in the republic. Under the arrangement entered 
into between the Dominican Government and the 
United States, fifty-five per cent of the revenue? 
are banked in New York for the benefit of foreign 
creditors of the republic, and while this arrange- 
ment is highly satisfactory to the creditors of the 
revolution-torn republic, yet it does not by any 
means meet with the approval of the rank and file 
of Dominicans who seem to feel that our govern- 
ment is interfering in other people's business. ^ — • 
Another matter for resentment by the natives is 
the fact that the duties of the republic are of the 
" fixed " variety, and each separate class of goods 
is dutiable at a fixed rate and not at an ad valorem 
rating. When the schedule of duties was origi- 
nally planned the Dominicans had no idea that the 
rates would be adhered to or enforced, for they 
were accustomed to getting a substantial reduction 
by judiciously " tipping " the native customs offi- 
cers. As carried out to the letter by the American 
officials, many of the duties prove a hardship to the 



240 SAN DOMINGO OF TO-DAY 

Dominicans, while such things as ammunition and 
firearms are strictly forbidden and are contraband, 
thus cutting off an easy means of securing the 
sinews of war for their beloved revolutions. 

Notwithstanding the fact that firearms are for- 
bidden entry, a great deal of ammunition and 
many arms are smuggled into the republic and am- 
bitious politicians, if provided with sufficient ready 
cash, have little difficulty in obtaining all the arms 
they require. This is no reflection upon our ad- 
ministration of the customs, for even with the 
greatest care it is an impossibility to prevent land- 
ing contraband goods. With a coast line of prac- 
tically a thousand miles, with innumerable small 
bays and natural harbours, and with only a small 
force of men and a half-dozen revenue cutters, it 
is, hopeless to try to prevent smugglers from land- 
ing when and where they please. 

Although the smaller towns or villages are sel- 
dom provided with hotels or boarding places of 
any description, all of the more important cities 
have fairly good hotels and in some the accommo- 
dations are excellent. 

At Puerta Plata, the " Europa," under Italian 
management, is very good and is far superior to 



PEOPLE AND THEIR WAYS Ul 

most hotels in the tropics, and the " Tres Antillas " 
— a Porto Rican hotel, is by no means bad. At 
Santiago, there is the " Garibaldi," under Italian 
management, and at La Vega the " Ayuso," a 
Spanish place, and the " Clamens," a French hos- 
telry. At Sanchez, there is the " Nagens," run by a 
German, and several private boarding houses ; and 
at Santo Domingo City, there are several hotels, of 
which the " Frances " is perhaps the best. On the 
whole, the republic is as well supplied with hotels 
as most of the West Indies, considering the popula- 
tion of the towns, and in every large town there are 
numerous private families, both native and foreign, 
who are glad to take boarders. In many of the 
towns there are fairly good restaurants and cafes, 
but the charming, open-air restaurants that are 
such an attractive feature of Cuban life are lack- 
ing. The Dominicans are not so much given to 
soft drinks, made from native fruits, as are the 
Cubans and Porto Ricans, and only in one or two 
towns is it possible to obtain ice cream. The ques- 
tion of food is, in most parts of the island, of far 
greater importance than a place in which to sleep. 
In many of the interior districts, it is next to im- 
possible for a foreigner to eat the native food as 



242 SAN DOMINGO OF TO-DAY 

everything is cooked in oil. In the coastal towns, 
the food is usually fairly good, but in the interior 
the only satisfactory method is to employ your 
own cook and purchase your own foodstuffs. 

In most of the larger towns there are thriving 
clubs with attractive quarters where strangers are 
usually welcome, and if one has letters of intro- 
duction to residents he will have no difficulty in 
living comfortably or even luxuriously for as long 
as he desires. 

In the interior, it is often almost impossible to 
hire horses, and on several occasions the writer 
found it more economical to buy horses than to 
hire them, for at the completion of the trip there 
was no difficulty in disposing of the animals for as 
much or more than was originally paid for them. 

Foodstuffs, clothes, and in fact every imported 
article is high in the republic, owing to the exor- 
-^itant import duties, but native goods and manu- 
factures are cheap. The Dominican Republic is 
not wholly dependent upon the outside world for 
the necessities of life and there are many local in- 
dustries and manufactures. There are soap and 
match factories, cigar and cigarette factories, ice 
plants, saw mills, planing and lumber mills, fur- 



PEOPLE AND THEIR WAYS 243 

niture factories, breweries, alcohol distilleries, 
brick and tile manufactories, machine shops, etc. 
In their home life, the Dominicans are much like 
other Spanish-Americans. They are fond of 
music and dancing, are gay, vivacious, and frivo- 
lous, and find a great deal of amusement in most 
* trivial matters. Bull fights are not permitted, but 
cock fights are universal and on Sundays and 
feast days the cock pit is the centre of attraction. 
The people are temperate, and although nearly 
every one drinks, yet one seldom sees an intoxi- 
cated person. The natives are honest, rather more 
intelligent than other West Indians and are usually 
good labourers. The peons, or country people, are 
apparently poverty-stricken, but there is no suffer- 
ing, for every one has his or her garden of vege- 
tables and a few cacao trees, and in a country 
where nature bountifully provides all the neces- 
sities of life little is required to satisfy the happy- 
-go-lucky good-natured people. 

There are numerous schools In the republic and 
in many of these English is taught. There are 
also institutes of art, music, and the sciences, and 
everywhere the people are thoroughly alive to the 
benefits and value of education. 



CHAPTER IV 



FAUNA AND FLORA 



The flora of the Dominican Republic is exceed- 
ingly rich, and in addition to the vast number of 
native plants any tropical product will thrive. 
Many of the native trees are exceedingly val- 
uable as cabinet woods, others are dyewoods, 
and still others are well adapted to building 
and construction works. From the vicinity 
of Puerta Plata considerable mahogany and 
lancewood is exported, but owing to the lack 
of good roads only a very small proportion 
of the valuable timber is brought to the coast. 
From Barahona and Azua large quantities of 
Spanish cedar, mahogany, and lignum-vitaa are 
shipped, while Santo Domingo City, Sabana la 
Mar, and other ports also ship great quantities of 
lignum-vitae, logwood, and mahogany. In the 
mountains of the interior are enormous forests of 
long-leafed pine, but only close to the cities or 
settlements have these forests been cut or used. 
The principal products of the republic are 
2M 



FAUNA AND FLORA 245 

sugar, cacao, coffee, and tobacco, with some fruit, 
large amounts of honey and wax, and a consider- 
able number of hides. Dominican cacao js noted 
for its quality, and several of the large Swiss 
chocolate manufacturers have estates in the repub- 
lic. The coffee of the interior highlands is excel- 
lent and the tobacco, which is usually cured as 
*' perique," is of excellent quality and very 
strong. In many places there are enormous 
cocoanut groves, but the oil, nuts, or copra are 
scarcely exported. Fruits of splendid quality 
grow everywhere, and at Samana navel oranges 
and huge delicious pineapples are a drug on the 
local market. All the other tropical fruits, such 
as lemons, limes, mangoes, nisperos, plantains, 
bananas, tamarinds, cashews, pomegranates, etc., 
grow luxuriantly, while in many parts of the 
country fruits and vegetables of the temperate 
zone succeed very well. About La Vega, large 
quantities) of peas, beans, and some potatoes are 
raised ; in the heights of the northern coast moun- 
tains wheat and northern fruits may be grown; 
rice is raised on the Vega Real and in isolated 
localities strawberries, watermelons, peaches, 
plums, and even apples have been produced. 



^46 SAN DOMINGO OF TO-DAY 

The fauna of the republic is also notable for the 
number of its species, especially among the birds. 
There are over one hundred and fifty species of 
birds recorded from the republic, about ninety- 
five of which are residents and among these many 
are peculiar to the island. Although the majority 
of these are song and insectivorous species, yet 
among them are numerous game birds and birds 
hunted as game in San Domingo. The two species 
of parrots, the several pigeons and doves, and the 
fruit crows are all considered as good game in the 
republic and all are excellent eating. At certain 
seasons these birds are excessively abundant and 
congregate in immense flocks and thousands are 
shot and sold in the markets. Along the shores of 
the rivers, bays, swamps, and lakes are numerous 
ducks, water-fowl, and shore birds which furnish 
excellent sport at times, while in certain of the 
grassy savannas English snipe occur in countless 
numbers. In many places also wild guinea fowl 
abound and no better or more wary game bird can 
be found than these. 

The waters of the rivers, lakes, and bays abound 
in fish of many kinds and sizes, but like everything 
else in San Domingo the fisheries have never been 



FAUNA AND FLORA 247 

properly exploited and no effort has ever been 
made to determine the number of species or kinds 
of fish which occur in the Dominican waters. In 
many of the creeks, water turtles and terrapin 
are found, crawfish are abundant in most of the 
streams, and land crabs are everywhere. 

The insect life is very meagre for a tropical 
country and the troublesome species are very 
scarce. Mosquitoes are exceedingly obnoxious in 
the swamps and on the banks of bays and rivers, 
but in the towns they are seldom at all trouble- 
some and are certainly not half so bad as in our 
northern summer resorts. House flies are seldom 
seen, fleas and other vermin are no more abundant 
than in the United States, cockroaches are not as 
abundant as in most tropical countries, and the 
ants are only a nuisance in certain places and at 
certain seasons. Butterflies and moths are fairly 
common and beetles, crickets, grasshoppers, and 
bugs occur, but serious injuries to growing crops 
by insects are almost unknown and, all in all, the 
country is not sl good field for the entomologist. 

Like all tropical countries the republic has nu- 
merous large spiders, centipedes, and scorpions, 
and while the natives tell great yams in regard 



us SAN DOMINGO OF TO-DAY 

to the venomous character of these creatures they 
are purely imaginary and there is no more danger 
of being stung by a scorpion or centipede than by 
a good healthy wasp or hornet. 

Among the reptiles, lizards abound everywhere, 
iguanas are fairly common and in some of the 
lagoons and sluggish rivers alligators are abun- 
dant and are much hunted for their skins and oil. 
There are several species of snakes in the repub- 
lic but all are perfectly harmless. The commonest 
species closely resembles our ordinary " garter 
snakes " ; another is a delicate, slender green 
species, while the largest of all is the Cuban boa or 
" Maja," which attains a length of ten or twelve 
feet. 

There are few native mammals, the largest be- 
ing the Manatee, or " sea cow," which is common in 
the rivers and mangrove swamps near the coast 
and which is hunted for the flesh and hides. Tree- 
rats are common in the forests, and the giant rat- 
like creature known as the " Hutia," or more 
properly " Capromys," is found in certain local- 
ities in the interior. In many places the mon- 
goose has been introduced, has become common, 
and has played havoc with the native birds and 



FAUNA AND FLORA 249 

animals, and near Samana European rabbits have 
been acclimated. The most noteworthy and re- 
markable of all the Dominican fauna, however, is 
the Solenodon or " Almiqui." This strange crea- 
ture is about two feet in length including the tail, 
and lives in hollow trees, and burrows in the earth 
or crevices among rocks. The snout is long, slen- 
der, and like that of an ant-eater, while the fore- 
feet are strong, large, and provided with powerful 
claws well adapted for digging. The hair is 
coarse and brown and the hind quarters are nearly 
naked, warty, and covered with a sparse growth 
of woolly hair. The tail is long, round, and rat- 
like, and the eyes very small. The Solenodon is 
one of those natural history puzzles that connect 
the prehistoric forms with those of to-day, and but 
two species are known — one being peculiar to 
San Domingo, the other to Cuba. For nearly one 
hundred years the San Domingo Solenodon was 
considered a " lost species," and extinct, for the 
only specimen in the world was a fragment pre- 
served in St. Petersburg, Russia, and obtained in 
San Domingo in 1832. The odd creatures were 
rediscovered and again brought to the knowledge 
of science in 1907, when the author obtained sev- 



250 SAN DOMINGO OF TO-DAY 

eral specimens in the Dominican Republic, some of 
which are now on exhibition in the American 
Museum of Natural History in New York City. 
Once they were rediscovered and their locality 
known it was easy to obtain more, and numerous 
specimens have since been brought to the United 
States and to Europe. 

The flesh of this creature is considered good 
eating and in Cuba the related species has been 
extensively hunted. In San Domingo, the mon- 
goose has played a large part in the extermination 
of the animals and no doubt within a short time 
this remarkable " missing link " will be totally 
extinct. 



CHAPTER V 

BOADS AND TRANSPORTATION 

One of the greatest drawbacks to travelling in the 
Dominican Repubhc, and one of the chief factors 
in preventing the island's progress, is the lack of 
good roads. Everywhere in the republic there are 
so-called " roads," but the best are inexpressibly 
miserable apologies for highways and in any other 
land v/ould be classed as mere trails. 

In many places the roads are wide, the grades 
are not bad, and the country traversed is luxuri- 
antly rich, but through lack of care or foresight 
the roads consist of a series of mud holes and 
hillocks. 

Throughout the republic there is scarcely a 
thoroughfare suitable for wheeled vehicles save in 
the immediate vicinity of the towns and practic- 
ally all travel and transportation is by horseback, 
donkey-back, or on the long-legged riding bulls 
peculiar to the country. Every time an animal 
travels over one of the Dominican roads he fol- 
lows in the footsteps of his predecessor, leaping 
251 



'252 SAN DOMINGO OF TO-DAY 

or jumping over the ridges and floundering 
through the muddy pits and thus wearing the 
holes still deeper with his passage. In the dry 
season, the roads are baked as hard as brick, and 
in the rainy season they are as soft, sticky, and 
mushy as soft soap, and it is like travelling in a 
nightmare to traverse any considerable distance 
over such roads in either the dry or the wet 
months. 

In many other places the " roads " are simply 
narrow bridle paths barely wide enough to ac- 
commodate a single horse and so overgrown with 
vines, creepers, and trees that one is compelled to 
crouch forward on the saddle to avoid being swept 
from the horse by the overhanging boughs. In 
numerous places these trails are worn so deep that 
they become filled with mud and water and I have 
frequently travelled over trails where for miles 
the horses were actually up to their bellies in mud. 
At other places they wind about the brinks of 
dizzy precipices or across fallen trees, and every- 
where one is constantly obliged to ford rivers and 
streams. In the interior there are no bridges, and 
as the roads run fairly direct from one spot to 
another, and as the streams meander across the 



ROADS AND TRANSPORTATION 25S 

landscape in a serpentine course, the traveller not 
infrequently crosses the same river half a dozen 
times in a distance of a few miles. 

This is bad enough in the dry season when the 
streams are low, but in the rainy months, when 
the rivers are high, or after a heavy rain in the 
mountains, many of the watercourses are impass- 
able and one is compelled to swim raging torrents 
at the risk of life and limb. 

The country was pretty thoroughly traversed 
by the early settlers and conquerors and many of 
the trails have existed for centuries, and as one 
travels over them one marvels how the ancient 
Spaniards ever managed to get from place to 
place, and is filled with admiration at the hardi- 
hood and tenacity of purpose which enabled mail- 
clad men to penetrate the vast interior over such 
fearful pathways. 

The longest road on the island is that which 
leads from Monte Christi to Santiago and hence 
to La Vega, following more or less along the 
banks of the Yaqui River. In a way this road 
is good, — that is for San Domingo, — and there is 
a tradition that a carriage has been driven over it. 
The statement may be true, but judging from its 



^54i SAN DOMINGO OF TO-DAY 

present condition the " carriage " must have been 
a six-mule army wagon, for certainly no other 
vehicle could possibly traverse this "highroad" 
to-day. From La Vega, another road leads south- 
ward to the capital, another runs easterly from 
Santo Domingo City to the Seybo and Higuey, 
and still another runs to the west along the south- 
ern coast to Azua, Neyba, and Bani, with one 
branch leading across to Port au Prince, Haiti, 
and another leading into the wild regions of the 
Yaqui valley of the south. 

All of these main roads have been used for four 
hundred years or more without change or im- 
provement, and the one to Azua was the principal 
route followed by the Spanish conquerors and 
their pack trains of gold from the mines. 

There is no lack of trails and there is no 
trouble in finding a path of some sort leading to 
any town or village in the republic, but he who 
essays to travel overland in San Domingo must 
have an abundance of hardihood, must be a good 
horseman, and must start forth with determination 
and an optimistic view of all things, — he will need 
it all before he reaches his journey's end. 

There are two principal railway lines in the 



ROADS AND TRANSPORTATION 255 

Dominican Republic, one known as the " Samana, 
Sanchez and La Vega Railway," leading from the 
Bay of Samana to La Vega, and the other the 
" Central Dominican Railway," connecting Puerta 
Plata with Santiago, Moca, and La Vega. An- 
other short railway leads from San Domingo 
City to San Christobal and various other short 
lines are projected and under construction. In 
various places there are many miles of narrow- 
gauge tracks on the plantations and on several of 
these the visitor may travel for considerable dis- 
tances by obtaining permission from the owners. 
One of these lines at Macoris leads quite a dis- 
tance into the interior, following the valley of the 
Higuamo River. Another cane road leads from 
La Romana into the Seybo district, while still an- 
other leads from Azua to the vast cane fields in the 
neighbourhood. The railway leading from Sanchez 
to La Vega carries one through the magnificent 
Vega Real, or Royal Plain, and affords a splendid 
view of the more level and open interior. This 
was the first steam road in operation in the island 
and the concession was originally granted to 
Americans in 1882. 

The following year it was turned over to a 



256 SAN DOMINGO OF TO-DAY 

Scotchman, Mr. Alexander Baird, who with his 
own fortune carried the work to completion. In 
constructing this road it was necessary to fill and 
build a roadbed through a mangrove swamp ten 
miles across as well as to build and create a port 
at the little village of Las Canitas, now known as 
Sanchez, a city which is practically dependent 
upon the railway and its commerce. 

The Central Dominican Railway, from Puerta 
Plata to Santiago, is 42 miles in length and was 
commenced in 1893 by Westerndorp & Co., a firm 
of Amsterdam bankers who employed Belgian 
engineers. The Belgians succeeded in building 
about fifteen miles of the road, employing the cog 
and rack system on the heavy grades, which are 
often six to ten per cent. The rights to the enter- 
prise were then transferred to the " San Domingo 
Improvement Company," a New York concern, 
which completed the road and placed it in opera- 
tion. 

Unlike the Sanchez-La Vega road, this railway 
carries the traveller over a towering mountain 
range through scenery inexpressibly grand. At 
Altamira, 15 miles from Puerta Plata, the road 
attains an elevation of over two thousand feet 



ROADS AND TRANSPORTATION 257 

above the sea and at this point a stop of twenty 
minutes is made for breakfast at the little restau- 
rant or " fonda." Just beyond here the train 
plunges into the great " Cumbre " tunnel, nearly 
one thousand feet in length, to emerge on the op- 
posite side of the mountain range and descend the 
gentle slope to Santiago. 

Although nominally American, yet this road in 
reality belongs to the Dominican Government and 
is merely leased to the Improvement Company for 
a term of years under an operating contract. It 
is a sort of cosmopolitan road, for it was financed 
by the Dutch, partly constructed by Belgians, is 
owned by Dominicans, and is operated by Amer- 
icans. The rolling stock is American, the stations 
and buildings Belgian, and the bridges British. 

Throughout the republic telephone and tele- 
graphic communication is maintained between 
towns and villages and the postal system is com- 
plete and fairly efficient. The Ozama and Higu- 
amo Rivers have numerous launches, small steam- 
ers, and sailing craft that ply between the various 
towns on the rivers' banks, and in the Bay of 
Samana there are regular packets, both sailing and 
power, which ply between Santa Barbara, San- 



258 SAN DOMINGO OF TO-DAY 

chez, and Sabana la Mar, and various passenger 
and freight boats travel about the coast from town 
to town. 

From New York, the Clyde West India Line 
runs regularly to the republic, touching at Monte 
Christi, Puerta Plata, Samana, Sanchez, La Ro- 
mana, Macoris, Santo Domingo, and Azua. From 
Europe the Spanish and French lines run to the 
principal ports ; a steamer of the Hamburg-Amer- 
ican line sails to and from Jamaica and St. 
Thomas, touching at Dominican ports en route, 
and several of the Porto Rico-Cuba steamships 
touch at, the ports in both San Domingo and 
Haiti. 



CHAPTER VI 

HERE AND THERE IN THE REPUBLIC 

To the visitor approaching from the north the 
island presents a barren and forbidding aspect, 
for Monte Christi, the first port of call, is situ- 
ated in a dry portion of the island. The coast 
at this point is low and fringed with mangrove 
trees, while inland and to the east rise towering 
mountains. Close to the steamship anchorage a 
huge, cone-shaped hill, some two thousand feet 
in height, rises sheer from the sea, its face as per- 
pendicular as though sliced off with a knife and 
wonderfully coloured withireds, yellows, and white. 
The slopes of this hill, which is known as " El 
Morro," as well as the neighbouring hills and 
plains, are covered with a low growth of thorny 
scrub and dry, sparse grass, without any sign of 
cultivation. The port of Monte Christi is situ- 
ated on a narrow sand spit between a mangrove 
swamp and a series of mud flats, and is hot and 
far from healthy. The only buildings of conse- 
quence are the warehouses, custom-house build- 
259 



260 SAN DOMINGO OF TO-DAY 

ings, and a few stores, for the town proper is built 
on a hill a mile or more from the port. Between 
the two, tram cars drawn by mules ply back and 
forth, while the well-to-do inhabitants drive in 
private three-horse victorias. 

Monte Christi, however, is of great importance 
as the outlet for the great and fertile valley of the 
Yaqui del Norte, which flows into Manzanillo Bay 
beyond the port. Unfortunately the port is in- 
fested by most vicious and bloodthirsty mosqui- 
toes which render even a short stay ashore almost 
unbearable to a stranger. A large proportion of 
the inhabitants of Monte Christi are negroes from 
Turks Island and the British West Indies, and 
nearly every porter and labourer speaks English. 
The place on the whole is very uninteresting and 
disappointing and the visitor is all too likely to 
draw wrong conclusions from this first glimpse of 
the republic. 

Sailing eastward from Monte Christi the coun- 
try rapidly becomes more fertile, while the low 
scrub and half-dead herbage gives way to forests 
of rich green and grassy pasture lands. Thirty- 
five miles from Monte Christi, Isabella Bay is 
passed. At this spot Columbus founded the first 



IN THE DOxMINICAN REPUBLIC 261 

European settlement in the New World. In 149S 
he left a handful of men here, a church was erected, 
and on a bluff above the river the town of Isabella 
was built. It proved a most unhealthy location, 
however, and within a few years it was entirely 
deserted. A few crumbling ruins are now all that 
remain to mark the site of this historic town, and 
even these are overgrown with brush and jungle. 

Thirty miles eastward from Isabella we reach 
the beautiful harbour and picturesque town of 
Puerta Plata. I do not think there is a prettier 
or more attractive town — from the sea — in all the 
West Indian Islands, with its red-roofed houses 
embowered amid hundreds of majestic royal palms 
and sloping upward from the water front towards 
the towering, forest-clad volcano of La Torre, its 
summit wreathed in clouds 3,000 feet above the 
sea. Guarding the entrance to the little harbour 
is the ancient Spanish fort and light-house. 
Puerta Plata is a clean, well-kept town with 
straight, smooth streets, a fine iron pier, and many 
other up-to-date improvements, and is of great 
commercial importance as being the seaward ter- 
minal of a railroad that penetrates the rich and 
fertile interior plateau known as the Cibao. The 



SAN DOMINGO OF TO-DAY 

thriving interior cities of Santiago de los Cabajle- 
ros and Moca are now connected with Puerta 
Plata by a railway of about forty-five miles in 
length, but short as is the distance, the grades 
are so steep that a cogwheel track and four loco- 
motives are required to take a train over the road. 
Moca is famous as a coffee centre, and Santiago 
for its tobacco. When the Spaniards first found 
gold in this region they supposed that the long- 
sought land of Cipango was reached at last. Al- 
though gold was first found here by the con- 
querors and great quantities have been taken out 
in past times, little mining is done at present, note 
withstanding that practically every river runs over 
golden sands and that the natives are continually 
bringing in dust and nuggets. Most of this they 
find accidentally while catching crawfish or washing 
clothes. Several companies have been formed to 
exploit San Domingo gold and copper deposits, 
but as all the gold occurs in placers and is scat- 
tered over a wide area they have not proved suc- 
cessful. 

Puerta Plata boasts of some really fine build- 
ings, a neat and attractive railway station, several 
fine clubs, and a well-regulated hospital. There 



IN THE^ DOMINICAN REPUBLIC 263 

are also several well-kept and pretty little parks 
or plazas and the town is well lighted by elec- 
tricity. The surrounding country is very attrac- 
tive, and as the roads in the vicinity are unusually 
good, one may drive for several miles in the native 
victorias. The forests of the near-by mountain- 
sides are rich in cabinet and dye woods and quite 
a little lignum-vitag, mahogany, green-heart, and 
lancewood are shipped from this port. Here, too, 
we first meet the famous saddle bulls of the repub- 
lic. These creatures are bred especially for rid- 
ing and are long-legged, swift travelling animals, 
very different from our own slow-plodding oxen. 

Travelling eastward from Puerta Plata, Cape 
Cabras is rounded and the steamer enters the mag- 
nificent Bay of Samana. This fine body of water 
is 35 miles in length by seven to nine in width and 
is of special interest to Americans, since at one 
time the United States Government came very near 
purchasing it for a naval and coaling station. 
On the northern shore of the bay the first blood 
was shed by Europeans in America, for a landing 
party sent ashore was attacked by Indians and 
several were killed. Opposite this historic spot, 
and some three miles from the shore, lies the Cayo 



264 SAN DOMINGO OF TO-DAY 

Levantado, a small limestone island about three 
miles long and a mile wide, which for many years 
formed an impregnable stronghold for the old 
buccaneers. The Cayo is covered with the ruins 
of forts, houses, and other buildings of the free- 
booters, all of them cut from the solid rock. It is 
a most interesting and attractive spot, with 
snowy beaches and luxuriant vegetation, and is a 
breeding place for innumerable pelicans and other 
water-fowl. 

Ten miles up the bay is Samana, the loveliest 
spot in San Domingo. This charming town is 
built at the base of verdure-clad hills on an almost 
landlocked bay, and is everywhere surrounded by 
immense cocoanut groves, fruit orchards, and well- 
tilled lands. Samana has been in turn French, 
Haitien, American, and Dominican, and at one 
time even formed an independent republic. For 
this reason the inhabitants nearly all speak Eng- 
lish and patois French as well as Spanish. The 
locality is noted for its fruits, cocoanuts, and 
cacao. Pineapples here often attain a weight of 
20 to 25 pounds, while the oranges of the navel 
variety are unexcelled. The valley of the San Juan 
River, a few miles inland, is settled principally by 



IN THE DOMINICAN REPUBLIC 265 

the descendants of American coloured folk, who 
were brought out as labourers when Samana was 
leased to an American company years ago. These 
people have some curious customs and expressions. 
They will tell you they are of " Yankee abstrac- 
tion " and call their saddle bulls " bicycles." 

They are doing very well here, however, and are 
by far the most diligent workers on the island. 
They raise large quantities of fruits and vege- 
tables for the local market and visiting steamers, 
but their most important crop is cacao. The 
cacao groves cover every hillside and flow over 
into the valleys, and the rich bronze of their leaves 
forms a pleasant contrast to the pale green ban- 
ners of the bananas and the darker green of bush 
and palm. 

The view from the hills back of the town is beau- 
tiful indeed with the clustered wooden houses and 
stores, the wonderfully coloured water, the jutting, 
palm-clad cape and wooded islands, with Samana 
Bay stretching beyond to the southern mountains 
dim on the further shores. 

Sixteen miles from Samana at the head of the 
bay is Sanchez, a curious little town that owes its 
being solely to the fact that it is the terminus of 



266 SAN DOMINGO OF TO-DAY 

an English railway penetrating the interior val- 
leys. Sanchez is built upon two hills, the roads 
are narrow, stony, and muddy, and there are few 
large or attractive residences, but the inhabitants 
more than make up for the shortcomings of their 
town, for, although I found the Dominicans all 
most hospitable and charming, yet to my mind 
the Sanchezites were the most delightful of all. 
The little town is provided with a fine steel wharf, 
a marine railway, engine and car shops, and im- 
posing stores and custom-house buildings, while 
the strings of freight cars, the puffing locomotives, 
and the clang of forges and steam hammers give 
the waterside a busy and bustling aspect. 

The railroad to La Vega, 60 miles distant, cost 
an enormous sum, but is badly built and poorly 
kept and equipped, but nevertheless affords an in- 
teresting trip, and gives one a very good idea of 
the character of the country. 

For the first nine miles after leaving Sanchez 
the road passes through an immense mangrove 
swamp, which is the home of great numbers of 
white herons, egrets, and ibis. This swamp, which 
covers over one hundred square miles, is so vast 
and impenetrable that it will ever prove a safe 



IN THE DOMINICAN REPUBLIC S6T 

refuge for these birds, which in many parts of the 
island are persistently hunted for their plumes. 
After passing the swamp, the road enters a coun- 
try of rolling, grassy, pasture land, interspersed 
with dense groves of cacao, patches of forest and 
brush, low hills and deep-cut rivers. As the train 
never exceeds a speed of eight miles per hour, ex- 
cept special express trains, which sometimes travel 
at the excessive rate of 10 miles, and as it stops for 
from five to fifteen minutes at each little estancia 
or mllagCy the traveller has ample opportunity to 
observe surroundings. Beyond Almacen the coun- 
try becomes more open and the patches of forest 
and trees more scattered, while the mountains of 
the interior ranges appear on the horizon. This 
part of the country is mainly devoted to cattle- 
raising and great herds of cattle may be seen on 
every side. An odd feature of the cattle herds are 
the white and blue herons that accompany them, 
often perching on the animals' backs. These cat- 
tle are mostly of the native slender-bodied breed 
so much used for riding and peculiar to San Do- 
mingo. The plains gradually widen and become 
more level, while groves of palm trees become 
abundant, and presently we realise that we have 



268 SAN DOMINGO OF TO-DAY 

entered the beautiful Royal Plain, or Vega Real. 
This magnificent interior valley extends for a dis- 
tance of nearly one hundred miles east and west 
and is from ten to fifty miles in width. It is won- 
derfully fertile, well watered, and capable of sup- 
porting a vast population, but unfortunately it is 
neglected and almost deserted, with here and 
there small patches of cultivated land, lonely 
houses, arid a few herds of cattle and horses. This 
failure to take advantage of natural resources 
appears to be due mainly to lack of capital and 
the frequency of revolutions in the past. Under 
the future regimes it is to be hoped that conditions 
will improve, that the republic will develop rapidly 
and soon take a place among the most progressive 
and richest of American republics. 

At nearly every station one notices that many 
boys and men carry fighting cocks under their 
arms, while the country folk are literally armed to 
the teeth. Cock fighting is the national sport, 
while the warlike appearance of the natives seems 
to be more in the nature of ornament than other- 
wise. Men are often seen with two machetes — 
one the ordinary working tool, the other a long, 
keen-bladed, carven-handled, scimitar-like weapon 



IN THE DOMINICAN REPUBLIC 269 

slung from the shoulder — a heavy Colt's or Smith 
& Wesson revolver, a dagger-like knife and a 
shotgun or musket. Although they appear like 
walking arsenals there is comparatively little fight- 
ing among the natives, for they are at heart a 
gentle and peaceful lot, ready to share their last 
centavo or pot of beans with a stranger or vacate 
their home and place it at his disposal. 

At last the train reaches the outskirts of La 
Vega, a large rambling town some three hundred 
feet above the sea on the banks of the Camu River. 
This river, like most San Dominican streams, 
varies greatly in size at different seasons. Or- 
dinarily, it flows peacefully along, 200 or 300 feet 
wide and from three to four feet in depth over a 
rocky bed. One notices, however, that the bed of 
the river is half a mile or more in width and that 
on either side of this wide, dry bed the banks rise 
sharp and ragged to a height of from twenty to 
forty feet. In case of a storm in the mountains, 
as well as in the rainy season, the water rapidly 
rises and forms a rushing, irresistible torrent, half 
a mile wide and from thirty to forty feet in depth. 
So suddenly does the water rise that oftentimes 
the women washing at its edge are swept away and 



S70 SAN DOMINGO OF TO-DAY 

the steel and concrete bridges of the railways are 
torn from their foundations and borne seaward 
like chaff. 

The town of La Vega contains a number of 
really fine public buildings, a beautiful little plaza, 
and numerous large and handsome houses. The 
streets are wide and straight, but rather rough 
and dusty. The town has about five thousand 
inhabitants. Behind the town, and at a distance 
of from two to five miles, is a range of mountains 
covered from base to summit with a heavy forest 
of pitch pine. There are several saw mills at La 
Vega, but the mills are built in the town and the 
logs hauled at great labour and expense from the 
mountains to mills, instead of being sawed on the 
spot and transported in the form of planks and 
boards. As a result, imported yellow pine is 
cheaper than the native lumber. 

The original settlement of La Vega was farther 
to the north at a spot known as La Vega la 
Vieja. The old town was founded by Columbus 
and soon became a thriving settlement, but was 
destroyed by an earthquake in 1564 and the site 
was abandoned for that of the present town. To- 
day one may dig among the ruins and find old 



IN THE DOMINICAN REPUBLIC 271 

coins, armour, and Toledo blades. These old To- 
ledo swords are often used by the Dominican 
natives for making fighting machetes and are 
highly prized. 

The roads in the vicinity of La Vega, and espe- 
cially the main road from La Vega to Moca and 
hence to Santiago, are much superior to the 
majority of San Dominican highways. They are 
broad, level, and fairly smooth, but have the pe- 
culiarity of running back and forth across rivers, 
a habit common to all the roads in the republic. 
In some places, as the rivers wind about in a very 
serpentine course and the roads run fairly direct, 
one is obliged to cross the rivers a number of times 
in travelling even a short distance. On one occa- 
sion, I was obliged to ford the Yabon River no 
less than ten times in the distance of a mile. As 
the fords are usually so deep as to make it neces- 
sary to swim one's horse, this repeated perform- 
ance is not particularly pleasant, and in case the 
rivers are high is absolutely dangerous. In cross- 
ing one of the tributaries of the Yaqui, when the 
water was high, I lost a horse, guns and ammuni- 
tion, valuable instruments, and several boxes of 
specimens, and barely escaped with my own life. 



272 SAN DOMINGO OF TO-DAY 

The roads in many places are exceedingly bad, 
in fact the poor roads are in great measure re- 
sponsible for the lack of development of the island. 
No one can possibly conceive of the actual con- 
dition of the so-called " good roads " until after 
riding over them. They are often very narrow — 
barely two feet wide — with overhanging branches 
and limbs which must be constantly dodged. 
They wind along the narrow edges of precipices, 
over logs and fallen trees, across rivers and 
up and down precipitous banks, and during 
the wet season are in many places actually up 
to the horses' bellies with mud. The custom 
of riding bulls also proves very injurious 
to roads, for these creatures have a habit of 
always stepping in the same spot, so that soft and 
muddy, deep holes, are worn in the roadbed. When 
the mud dries up these hollows remain and the hil- 
locks between become baked as hard as brick, so 
that one is continually riding over a series of hills 
and hollows several feet in depth. Of course, on 
such highways no teaming or carting is possible 
and even hauling logs becomes a tedious and ex- 
pensive undertaking. 

In the vast forest-covered interior, between La 



IN THE DOMINICAN REPUBLIC 273 

Vega and the Haitien frontier, are immense tracts 
of mahogany, green-heart, lignum-vitse, lancewood, 
and other valuable timber which under present 
conditions it is impossible to bring out. I have 
often seen felled mahogany trees, from which the 
limbs had been cut and taken out, lying rotting in 
the forest and so large that when standing beside 
them I could not see over the trunk. 

Aside from the value of the timber in this 
interior portion of the republic are the valu- 
able but unexploited mineral deposits. Iron, tin, 
nickel, silver, copper, cinnabar, and gold occur 
throughout this district and in paying quantities, 
but the lack of means of transportation prevents 
their being mined or exported. In the southern 
portion of the republic several copper mines and a 
few gold placers are being worked, oil wells near 
Azua are used to some extent, and there have been 
several attempts to utilise the large lignite deposits 
of the Samana peninsula. Besides these, there is 
a perfect mountain of crystalline salt at Neiba, 
and amber is found at Puerta Plata, Santiago, and 
in Samana Bay. 

From Sanchez one may cross the bay to San 
Lorenzo. This is a most interesting and attrac- 



274 SAN DOMINGO OF TO-DAY 

tive spot and was formerly owned by the Bartram 
Bros., a Boston firm who established an enormous 
banana plantation. 

This estate, called Cana Honda, extended in- 
ward for several miles from San Lorenzo Bay and 
was equipped with a railway, shops, numerous 
buildings, and all modern appliances. Through 
mismanagement, competition, and other causes the 
estate failed, and is now deserted, forlorn, and 
overgrown. 

Approaching San Lorenzo Bay we pass a large 
number of strange conical islets, while the near- 
by shore is covered with similar sugar-loaf-shaped 
hills. Each of these hills and islands contains a 
huge stalactite cave. The floors of these caverns 
are covered with a layer of fossil seashells several 
feet in depth, showing that at some time they were 
beneath the level of the sea. There is a popular 
tradition that an immense pirate treasure is hid- 
den in one of these caves and several searching 
parties have attempted to locate it. As this dis- 
trict was infested by pirates and buccaneers for 
many years, and was one of their last strongholds 
in the Spanish Main, it is not at all improbable 
that treasure may be hidden in the caves, but 



IN THE DOMINICAN REPUBLIC 275 

there are so many of them, and as the stalactite 
rock forms very rapidly, there is little chance of 
any one finding the cache. 

Nevertheless, the caves are very beautiful and 
interesting, and any one who has time at his dis- 
posal will be amply repaid by a visit to the cav- 
erns. 

San Lorenzo Bay itself is a broad, shallow 
lagoon surrounded on three sides by dense man- 
grove swamps and with the fourth or seaward side 
protected by a long, sandy peninsula about four 
miles in length and completely covered with a 
grove of beautiful cocoanut trees. 

From the bay various creeks and small rivers 
extend into the swamps, and these labyrinthine 
waterways are the haunt of great flocks of tree- 
ducks, herons, egrets, and ibis. The waters of the 
bay afford a feeding ground and home for a great 
many Manatees, which are often hunted for their 
hides and flesh. 

The largest of the creeks flowing into San Lo- 
renzo Bay is known as Cafia Honda (Deep Creek) 
and leads inland in a very tortuous and irregular 
course. Like the other creeks, it is bordered by 
dense mangrove swamps, and as the boat passes 



276 SAN DOMINGO OF TO-DAY 

through frightened herons, ibis, and ducks are 
constantly rising from the trees on either hand* 
About a mile from the bay the landing place is 
reached, — a steep bank of firm land, — and from 
here the trail must be followed on foot or horse- 
back to the buildings of the abandoned estate. 

The edifices were originally timbered with ma- 
hogany and other rare woods and covered with 
corrugated iron. Several of them have been de- 
stroyed for the sake of the material used in their 
construction, but the main dwelling still stands and 
is occupied by a caretaker. Here the traveller 
will be assured of a hearty welcome and hospitable 
treatment, and may enjoy excellent pigeon or 
parrot shooting near the house, or may paddle 
about the creeks in search of ducks or ibis.^ 

The house is on an eminence and commands a 
magnificent view and would prove a perfectly ideal 
spot for a hotel. The location is healthy, the 
land IS fertile, and the valley is level and free from 
heavy timber. The attractions for hunters and 
fishermen are very great, and ic is surprising that 
some one has not appreciated the possibilities of 
Caiia Honda for a winter resort. 

From Caiia Honda one may make an excursion 



IN THE DOMINICAN REPUBLIC 277 

into the interior to El Valle, a little village situ- 
ated in the midst of a vast level prairie, with here 
and there small patches of forest in tiny ravines. 
The prairie is, in places, somewhat swampy and 
overgrown with rank grass and here the sportsman 
may find the finest snipe shooting I have ever 
seen. 

On the road from Cafia Honda to El Valle one 
passes through the immense cacao groves of a 
large Swiss chocolate company. The entire trip 
to Caiia Honda is well repaid by a visit to this 
prosperous and well-conducted estate. The cacao 
groves cover a wide expanse of land and through 
them runs a miniature narrow-gauge railway. On 
this the cacao beans are carried to the drying 
houses and sheds and from there the railway car- 
ries the cured beans to the dock at Sabana la Mar. 

The return trip to Sanchez or Samana may 
be made by way of San Lorenzo or from Sabana 
la Mar, nearly opposite the town of Samana. 

Returning to Sanchez and travelling around 
Cape Engano for 160 miles Macoris is reached, 
and here the ship moors to modern docks before a 
flourishing city with steam tramways, dredges, and 
various other modern improvements. The city is 



278 SAN DOMINGO OF TO-DAY 

built on the banks of the river, and numerous 
vessels are usually made fast to the docks, for 
Macoris is a great sugar port and the flat land 
and llanuras of the district are dotted with huge 
sugar mills and broad fields of pale-green cane. 
The sugar is brought to the docks both by train 
and by lighters towed by busy steam tugs, and 
35,000 to 50,000 bags are common shipments dur- 
ing crop season. The town is progressive, well 
kept, and has rather neat and well-built houses and 
buildings, but is very hot, dry, and dusty. About 
Macoris, as in fact throughout the republic, one is 
struck by the great number of royal palms. I do 
not know of any place in the tropics where one 
sees such quantities of these beautiful and useful 
trees. The royal palm to the Dominican is as 
useful as the reindeer to the Laplander or the 
dog to the Eskimo. From the tender leaf bud the 
famous " palm cabbage " is procured, the leaves 
are used for thatching huts and sheds, and the 
trunk is split into boards from which houses are 
built, and these are roofed with the dried leaf 
spathes or yagua. These yagua huts are seen 
everywhere in the republic and are very clean and 
comfortable, but as the palm boards are seldom 



IN THE DOMINICAN REPUBLIC 279 

straight there are often cracks an inch or two 
wide between them, which, although they furnish 
excellent ventilation, prove very uncomfortable 
when the cold north winds sweep down across the 
plains of the interior. Even large and pretentious 
houses are often built entirely of yagua. 

About forty miles from Macoris the steamer ar- 
rives at historic old Santo Domingo City. Passing 
through the narrow entrance to the harbour we 
skirt a grim and time-worn fortress which crowns 
a jutting headland at the river's mouth. This 
fine old masonry citadel, with its Moorish tower, 
was erected in 1509, and although the natives 
firmly believe that within its dungeon Columbus 
was imprisoned, there is no foundation for the 
story, for the date of his incarceration was in 
1500 and he was confined in a smaller tower in the 
old settlement across the river. Ruins of this 
old tower still exist, although it has been aban- 
doned since it was partially destroyed by a hurri- 
cane in 1502. These ruins mark the site of the 
first permanent European settlement existing in 
the Western Hemisphere, for they were erected 
in 1496 by Bartholomew Columbus, brother of 
Christopher. The present fortress, or "Home- 



280 SAN DOMINGO OF TO-DAY 

naje " tower, is now usually filled with political 
prisoners, who occupy the same stone cells wherein 
the old conquerors thrust their prisoners four 
centuries ago. From the dock beside the new and 
modern custom-house, one gazes shoreward upon 
scenes and ruins contemporary with the great dis- 
coverer, and looking upon the grand old stone 
wall surrounding the town, the half-ruined 
churches, and dull oriental colours of ancient 
buildings one seems to have stepped back into the 
days of armour and of conquest. Close at hand 
stands a large, well-preserved ruin, towering above 
the smaller, modern houses. This was the residence 
of Diego Columbus, son of the admiral, and one- 
time viceroy of the colony. His palace was so 
strongly fortified and defended with walls and can- 
non as to alarm the Spanish king, who recalled the 
governor to explain his actions. A little beyond 
the custom-house dock stands a gnarled old ceiba 
tree to which tradition says Columbus moored his 
caravels. Although there is room for doubt as to 
the veracity of this story, yet everything here is 
so closely identified with the life and career of Co- 
lumbus thai it loses nothing of interest thereby, 
and the ceiba is certainly old enough to have 



IN THE DOMINICAN REPUBLIC 281 

served for a mooring in the days of the discoverer. 
As we step ashore and pass beneath the great 
arched gateway in the city wall, with the arms of 
Castile and Leon graven on the keystone, we half 
expect a challenge from a mail-clad sentinel with- 
in the dusky shadows. This massive wall entirely 
surrounds the city and even after a lapse of half 
a thousand years is yet firm and strong enough 
to withstand a siege of any but modern artillery. 
Passing up the main street, between old houses 
with their ornate doorways bearing the coats of 
arms of many such famous old families as Balboa, 
Alvarado, and Ponce de Leon, the plaza is reached, 
where stands the magnificent statue of Columbus 
with his bronze arm pointing ever westward. 



CHAPTER VII 

THE CATHEDEAI. 

^'On the southern side of the plaza is the massive old 
fortress cathedral, begun in ,1514 and completed 
in 1540, and within its walls repose the bones 
of Christopher Columbus. The ancient bells of 
this cathedral are hung outside the walls in towers 
built for them instead of being placed within the 
edifice itself. Beneath these queer old bell towers 
we enter the broad stone portal decorated on 
either hand by pictured saints, almost as fresh as 
when first painted by the artists three centuries 
ago. Within the cathedral the attention is at once 
attracted to a magnificent monument of Italian 
marble, the last resting place of Columbus, whose 
bones repose in an ornamental urn guarded by 
two couchant lions. The Spaniards removed the 
supposed remains of Columbus to Havana in 1765, 
when the island was ceded to the French. The 
casket, however, bore no inscription and there is 
no doubt that it was in reality the coffin of Diego 
Columbus. In 1877? while repairs were being made 




TOMB OF COLUMBUS, SAN DOMINGO 



THE CATHEDRAL ^85 

in the cathedral, another casket was discovered 
near the altar which bore on its sides the follow- 
ing inscription in ancient Spanish: "Discoverer 
of America, First Admiral and Illustrious and 
Famous Don Christobal Colon." Although it 
would seem that this was evidence enough, the 
argument has been advanced that the word Amer- 
ica was not used at the date of Columbus's death. 
Although this is quite true, it is well known that 
the word did appear on maps as early as 1520, 
or nearly a score of years before the remains of 
Columbus were removed from Seville to Santo 
Domingo, and it was doubtless at this time that 
the inscription was made. The Italian Govern- 
ment was convinced of the authenticity of the 
remains when it presented the monument to the 
Dominicans, and the former United States Min- 
ister, the Hon. T. C. Dawson, investigated the 
matter thoroughly and came to the same con- 
clusion. 

Even without the remains of Columbus, the 
cathedral would be interesting, for it is a vast 
building of mediaeval days, as much fortress as 
church, and in fact it has often served for the 
former purpose. In its tiled roof there still re- 



284 SAN DOMINGO OF TO-DAY 

mains a cannon-ball fired from the guns of Sir 
Francis Drake, who besieged the city in 1589. Al- 
though the doughty Englishman did his best to 
destroy and capture the capital, he failed in his 
attempt, and finally withdrew upon the payment 
of 25,000 ducats and a large quantity of plunder, 
leaving the cannon-ball in the cathedral roof as 
a lasting souvenir of his visit. Inside the cathe- 
dral, as we enter the western door, is the great 
nave, flanked by lofty pillars, supporting an 
arched, groined roof. Immediately in front is 
the high altar, faced with plates of silver from 
the Dominican mines and with a retable of carved 
native woods richly decorated with gold. Close 
to the altar, and facing the western door, is the 
Santa Reliquia sanctuary, containing a fragment 
of the ancient cross of Santo Cerro. The relic Is 
preserved in a silver box and set in gold, and is 
exhibited once a year on the anniversary of the 
miraculous appearance of the angel on the " Holy 
Hill," near La Vega. 

Continuing westward, the next chapel is that of 
" Santisslma Trinidad," with a beautiful paint- 
ing by one of the old masters, and next to this 
is the chapel of "La Virgen de Dolores," with 



THE CATHEDRAL 285 

a tomb of a former archbishop. The " Door of 
Pardon," or "Puerta del Pardon," comes next, 
an interesting spot, as a person fleeing from jus- 
tice, or even an escaped criminal, who reaches 
this doorway may claim sanctuary and pardon. 
Above this portal is a tablet stating that the 
cathedral was completed to this point in 1527, 
and at one side is a tiny chapel containing a 
rather repulsively realistic effigy of Christ with 
genuine human skull and cross-bones beneath and 
bearing the date of 1524. Between this and the 
entrance are four more chapels, one of which 
contains a painting and the bones of a saint. 
The " Capilla Alta Gracia " comes next, with a 
tablet stating that here repose the mortal re- 
mains of Oviedo, the historian of the West In- 
dies, and just beyond is the chapel of " Jesus 
Predicador." Passing the western doorway, with 
its statues of San Jose and San Miguel to right 
and left, and once more moving towards the high 
altar, we arrive at the Capilla of " Jesus en Co- 
lumna," with an image of " La Senora de Buen 
Sucesos." The next chapel contains a very an- 
cient painting presented to the cathedral by 
Ferdinand and Isabella and brought to San Do- 



286 SAN DOMINGO OF TO-DAY 

mingo by Columbus. Another painting in this 
chapel is by a pupil of Murillo, and in various 
other parts of the cathedral are valuable paint- 
ings by old masters, some of which will be men- 
tioned in the order in which they are to be seen. 

The " Capilla de San Francisco," which is next, 
contains the first cross erected on the site of the 
cathedral and which was transferred to its present 
resting place upon the completion of the church. 
The cross is of solid mahogany and about nine 
feet in height, and bears the following inscription : 
"Esta es la Insignia primera que se planto en 
el centro de esta Campo para dar principo a este 
magnifico Templo — el ano de MDXIX." 

The eleventh chapel, which is next, is that of 
" Santissimo Sacramento," with a series of paint- 
ings of the twelve apostles by Velasquez, while 
above the altar is a " Virgin " by Murillo. The 
tabernacle of this chapel is of beautiful wrought 
silver, and in the pavement before it is a huge 
tombstone on which is a carven coat-of-arms bear- 
ing the date 1551. 

Beyond this is the " Capilla de Bautismo," 
with a beautiful door, delicate retable and splen- 
did paintings. The next chapel is the most beau- 



THE CATHEDRAL 287 

tiful in the entire cathedral and is known as the 
" Capilla de Adelantado Rodrigo de Bastidas." 
The domed ceiling, Moorish tiles from the Al- 
hambra in Spain, and other decorations, are won- 
derfully beautiful and rich and seem like a por- 
tion of some oriental structure. In this chapel 
are buried the remains of Bastidas with his wife 
and child. He was a famous commander and 
explorer and was killed by his own men while 
attempting to colonise the coast of the present 
Isthmus of Panama. 

In this chapel also is a small cell with beau- 
tifully carved, two-leaved doors of wood, within 
which the remains of Columbus reposed at one 
time. 

At the left and facing the nave is the altar of 
"Ave Maria," backed by a golden retable and 
an ancient painting, and with a statue of Isa- 
bella on one side and one of Ferdinand on the 
other, both copied from the statues in the royal 
chapel in Grenada, Spain. Back of this altar is 
a slab let into the pavement, and beneath this is 
the vault in which the remains of Don Luis Colon 
were discovered about fifty years ago. 

It is at this spot that we again reach the mag- 



288 SAN DOMINGO OF TO-DAY 

nificent tomb of Christopher Columbus and thus 
complete our circuit of this most fascinating old 
cathedral. 

Although the most interesting, the cathedral is 
by no means the oldest church in Santo Domingo 
City. This honour belongs to San Nicolas, built 
in 1509. This church was founded by Governor 
Ovando, the murderer of the beautiful Indian 
queen Anacaona, and the butcher of countless 
thousands of the aborigines. This blood-thirsty 
old Don did not coniSne himself to maltreating 
the helpless natives, but seems to have had a 
chronic grouch against the world in general and 
gave vent to his temper by oppressing every one 
with whom he came in contact, even including 
Columbus and his brothers. 

Before he died he apparently saw the error of 
his ways and repented, and as a conscience- 
offering he built the church of San Nicolas. The 
edifice is now merely a crumbling ruin, but the 
beautiful, groined roof above the presbytery is 
still fairly well preserved and well worth seeing. 

There are fully a dozen old churches scattered 
about the city and scarcely one is not historically 
interesting to the traveller. San Francisco is par- 



THE CATHEDRAL ^89 

ticularly noteworthy; a great massive structure 
conspicuous from all parts of the city, as it stands 
on an elevation back of the house of Diego Co- 
lumbus. The church is now in partial ruins and 
a small portion is used as an insane asylum. It 
was under the entrance to this church that Ojeda, 
the comrade of Columbus, was buried " In hu- 
mility that all who entered might place their feet 
above his head," and beneath the great altar Don 
Bartholomew Columbus, the founder of the city, 
was interred. From wall to wall great stone 
arches bridge the gaping, roofless interior, their 
crumbling masonry half-shrouded In climbing 
vines, while palm trees wave their plumes above 
the walls and find a foothold among the broken, 
tesselated pavement where once the faithful knelt 
in prayer. 

San Miguel is another ancient church on a 
little hill before the Plazuela of the same name. 
This church was erected by the treasurer of King 
Charles of Spain in 1520, and while small is quite 
attractive and historically interesting. Santa 
Barbara is perhaps the most beautiful of the 
town's churches and is situated close to the river 
wall on the Calle Commercio. It is ancient, quaint, 



290 SAN DOMINGO OF TO-DAY 

and primitive, and wonderfully well preserved. 
San Anton, between San Miguel and Santa Bar- 
bara, was once a magnificent edifice but is now 
a mere shell with arches still intact. Of the 
other structures, La Merced is large but oppres- 
sively gloomy, Santa Clara is modern in appear- 
ance, having been greatly restored, as has Regina, 
which has an up-to-date and prosperous school 
in connection with it. 

Of all the churches, none is more interesting 
than Santo Domingo, a well-preserved, imposing 
structure dating back to 1509, and with many a 
proud hidalgo and plumed knight of Old Spain 
resting beneath its floor. The altar is beautiful 
and mellowed with age, there are carved reredos, 
and the pulpit is supported on a serpent carved 
from native wood. 

To the walls of this old church are attached 
the remains of the first university established in 
America. This college was under the direction 
of the famous priest. Las Casas, who accom- 
panied Columbus on his voyages and whose life 
was never marred by bloodshed or violence, but 
who ever preached peace and good will towards 
his fellow-men. He did more than any other man 







W^Wm 



Q 



iidiC t'^ x^^^^Cw<^^ 



MFIII 




TOMB OF COLUiMBUS, SAN DOMINGO CITY 



THE CATHEDRAL 291 

of his time to render the condition of the Indians 
more bearable and was mainly instrumental in 
abolishing Indian slavery. To him we owe an 
everlasting debt of gratitude as the author of 
the only reliable history of those old days, and 
here in Santo Domingo College he prayed and 
taught more than a century before the Pilgrims 
first landed at Plymouth Rock. 



CHAPTER VIII 

OTHER TOWNS AND PIACES OF INTEREST 

In addition to the principal cities and seaports 
already mentioned there are numerous smaller 
towns, many of which are of great historical in- 
terest or are centres of considerable importance. 
Among these may be mentioned Santiago de Los 
Caballeros, about twenty miles northeast of La 
Vega and reached by the railway from Puerta 
Plata or La Vega or by a road across the Vega 
Real from the latter town. Santiago was settled 
in 1504 by thirty Spanish gentlemen, or " Ca- 
balleros," of noble birth, who had special per- 
mission from the King of Spain to add their own 
appellation to that of the town. 

Next to the capital, Santiago is the largest 
city of the republic, with about forty-five thou- 
sand inhabitants. Although the inhabitants of 
the aristocratic old town are by no means all 
" gentlemen " at present, yet the white race pre- 
dominates in the city, and many of the leading 
families can trace their ancestry in unbroken 
292 



PLACES OF INTEREST 293 

line from the old Spanish hidalgos who originally 
founded the town. Many of these descendants of 
grandees still retain the armour, swords, and 
other warlike gear of their ancestors, while sev- 
eral of Santiago's buildings also date from the 
days of the conquistadores. 

Santiago has had a stormy history, but it is 
still an important, prosperous, and wealthy 
town. It has been sacked by pirates, has been 
almost destroyed by insurrectos, and has suffered 
from fire and sword for three centuries, but un- 
daunted, the inhabitants have invariably repaired 
the damages, recouped their fortunes, and like 
the Phoenix, Santiago has each time arisen from 
its ashes a brighter, better, and more attractive 
town. 

The city is built upon a high bluff overlooking 
the Yaqui River, and has a magnificent climate 
and is one of the healthiest towns on the island. 
It possesses three fine churches and a cathedral, 
a beautiful plaza embowered in palms, flowers, and 
shrubs; a governor's and a municipal palace, an 
institute, a fortified watch-tower, and many beau- 
tiful residences. The Santiago market is large 
and invariably well stocked with produce and pro- 



294i SAN DOMINGO OF TO-DAY 

visions, and for miles around the country people 
travel to the city on Saturdays, at which times 
the visitor can see the natives and their wares to 
the best possible advantage. 

Near Santiago there are many historically in- 
teresting little towns and quaint villages, and 
San Jose de las Latas, about twenty miles dis- 
tant, is one of these. Here at a high altitude 
and in the midst of balmy pine woods is the little 
town with its 400-year-old church and its peace- 
ful population leading much the same simple, 
primitive life as their ancestors led several hun- 
dred years ago. The principal occupation of the 
inhabitants is weaving panniers, baskets, and 
hampers from palm leaves, but in the neighbour- 
ing streams gold occurs in considerable quanti- 
ties, and many of the natives eke out an easy 
livelihood by washing out a few ounces of dust 
every week. 

About the same distance south of Santiago is 
the town of Santo Tomas on the banks of the 
Janico River and near the first fort built by 
Columbus in the interior, and which was erected 
in 1494. This fort was constructed to protect 
the Spaniards in their search for gold in the 



PLACES OF INTEREST ^95 

river, for this district of the famed Cibao is the 
locality where gold was first found in quantities, 
and to-day over six million dollars' worth of the 
precious metal is annually taken from the Cibao 
by the crude native methods. 

About midway between Santiago and La Vega 
is the town of Moca, a city of some thirty thou- 
sand inhabitants. Moca is a so-called " white 
town " and few of the people are coloured, the 
majority being of pure Castilian descent land 
proud of the unbroken line of their ancestry. 
Moca is in a rich agricultural district and fa- 
mous for its coffee, and is connected with San- 
tiago by rail. 

It was in this town that General Ulyses Heu- 
reaux, the dictator of the republic, was assas- 
sinated in 1899. 

Nearer to La Vega is Santo Cerro, or the 
" Holy Hill," and one of the most famed and at- 
tractive places in the republic. The hill rises for 
about six hundred feet above the beautiful Vega 
Real, and from its summit may be obtained a 
magnificent view of rolling green savannas, palm- 
dotted plains, cultivated hills, sparkling silvery 
rivers, and pine-clad mountains. Columbus, 



296 SAN DOMINGO OF TO-DAY 

when subjugating the natives of the interior in 
1495, took up a position on this hill beneath a 
huge nispero tree, portions of which may still 
be seen. From this point of vantage the admiral 
watched his armoured men as they slaughtered 
the defenceless Indians, while the Spanish blood- 
hounds bore them down and tore the naked, help- 
less savages to pieces. In honour of his victory 
he erected a cross upon the hilltop and marched 
away with his victorious troops. According to 
tradition some of the natives attempted to defile 
the cross after the departure of the invaders and 
as they did so the figure of a woman descended 
from the heavens and rested upon an arm of the 
cross. Although the savages threw stones and 
discharged arrows at the apparition, the missiles 
passed through her without any apparent effect, 
and thus realising the celestial character of the 
figure the Indians fell upon their faces in wor- 
ship. The cross, which was the scene of this 
miracle, is now enshrined in the cathedral at Santo 
Domingo City, as mentioned elsewhere. 

The hill itself is a sacred spot, held in the 
deepest veneration by all the Dominicans, and 
from all parts of the republic they come here on 



PLACES OF INTEREST 297 

pilgrimages, often creeping on their knees from 
the base to the summit of the hill, where a church 
has been built by the contributions of the pil- 
grims. 

Another interior town, connected with La Vega 
and the coast by a branch line of the Samana-La 
Vega railway, is San Francisco de Macoris. This 
is a small city of some thirty thousand inhab- 
itants nestling in the shadow of the northern 
mountains. Like Moca and Santiago, this is a 
" white " town, noted for the number of its in- 
habitants of pure Spanish descent and famous 
for the beauty of its women. Macoris is in a 
wonderfully fertile district and rich in its agri- 
cultural products, especially cacao, which covers 
every hillside in the vicinity. 

Between La Vega and the capital are numerous 
towns, some of which are quite important, while 
others are of historical interest. Cotui, about 
thirty miles south of La Vega, was founded in 
1505, and has scarcely changed through its four 
centuries of existence. The town owed its origin 
to the vast deposits of gold, silver, and copper in 
the vicinity, and was often called Las Minas, or 
" The Mines," on this account. It is now of little 



298 SAN DOMINGO OF TO-DAY 

importance and the mines have been either for- 
gotten or exhausted. About the same distance 
from La Vega is another ancient mining town, 
formerly of great renown, but now in much the 
same condition as Cotui. This is Bonao, and 
while gold mines are still in operation in the 
region, yet they do not amount to much as com- 
pared with those of early days, when vast treas- 
ure poured from Bonao into the coffers of the 
greedy Spaniards. 

About thirty miles northeast of the capital is 
Boya, a little town of some three thousand inhab- 
itants, which was founded in 1533 by a native 
chieftain, the cacique Enriquillo. The cacique 
carried on such a successful rebellion against the 
Europeans that Charles V was glad to sign a 
treaty with him and assign him and his people 
a reservation at this place. Here the last rem- 
nants of the once numerous natives lived in com- 
parative peace, and the ancient church in which 
the chief and his people worshipped may still be 
seen, a quaint and lasting monument to Enriquillo, 
in whose honour the great inland lake was also 
named. 

In the eastern portion of the republic, in the 



PLACES OF INTEREST 299 

district known as the Seybo, is the city of Santa 
Cruz. This town is about sixty miles from the 
capital and has a population of 15,000, and is 
one of the oldest cities of the island, having been 
founded by Juan de Esquival in 1502. The most 
eastern of all important towns is Higuey, or 
more properly " Salvaleon de Higuey," a place 
.founded by Ponce de Leon soon after the settle- 
ment of Santa Cruz de Seybo. From here one 
may look out across the sea towards distant 
Porto Rico lying cloud-like and phantasmal on 
the horizon. No doubt old Ponce de Leon oft 
gazed from Higuey across the waves and medi- 
tated on the new land that he was destined to 
conquer and to govern. 

About twenty miles from Seybo and sixty-five 
from the capital is La Romana, a new settlement 
on a splendid natural harbour and in the midst of 
a rich sugar district. 

Villa Duarte, also known as " Pajarito," is a 
settlement of about ten thousand inhabitants on 
the eastern shores of the Ozama River opposite 
San Domingo City. This is the site of the orig- 
inal capital and the village is mainly of interest 
as containing numerous ruins of buildings closely 



300 SAN DOMINGO OF TO-DAY 

identified with Columbus. The chapel built by 
Bartholomew Columbus still stands here in the 
midst of a sugar plantation, and nearer the sea 
one may trace the ruins of the first settlement of 
San Domingo and the crumbling remains of the 
Moorish tower erected in 1496 and in which Co- 
lumbus was cast in chains. 

In this neighbourhood there are also some won- 
derful caves, the caverns of " Tres Ojos," within 
which are three miniature lakes of beautiful 
crystal-clear water. 

On the southern coast the principal town not 
already mentioned is Azua, 70 miles west of the 
capital and founded by Don Diego Velasquez, who 
later conquered and settled Cuba. Azua was first 
settled in 1504, and in its immediate neighbour- 
hood dwelt many illustrious hidalgos of old Spain. 
Here lived Hernando Cortes, the conqueror of 
Mexico; Pizarro, who subjugated Peru; Balboa, 
the discoverer of the Pacific, and many another 
conquistador. Originally the town was three or 
four miles south of its present site but was re- 
moved on account of an earthquake. Azua is in 
a dry, rather barren section of the country, and 
formerly suffered greatly for lack of water, but 



PLACES OF INTEREST 301 

now there is an ample supply from artesian wells. 
Although the country appears arid, yet with irri- 
gation it is excessively fertile, and immense crops 
of sugar cane are produced. In the vicinity of 
Azua are large deposits of petroleum and several 
wells are being worked. The first well drilled 
spouted for over seventy feet, and it would not be 
at all surprising if eventually Azua became as 
great an oil-producing district as Tampico, Mex- 
ico. Among the mountains, about ten miles from 
Azua, is Maniel, a little village at an elevation 
so great that it possesses the climate of the north- 
ern spring, and in the neighbourhood apples, po- 
tatoes, and other products of the temperate zone 
grow freely. To the northwest of Azua, and 
forty-four miles distant, is the interesting little 
town of San Juan de la Maguana. It was at 
this spot that Caonabo, a famous Carib war chief, 
had his stronghold. Remains of the aborigines 
may be seen here in the form of a most remarkable 
circle of great stones on a level plain and known 
as " El corral de los Indios." No one has been 
able to explain just what purpose this circus-like 
structure served and it is doubtful if any light 
will ever be thrown on the subject, for the con- 



30£ SAN DOMINGO OF TO-DAY 

querors were too intent on gathering gold and de- 
stroying the Indians to pay any attention to the 
habits and customs of the natives for the benefit 
of future generations. 

San Juan was founded in 1504 and has a popu- 
lation of perhaps twenty thousand. From here 
westward to the Haitian border the country is as 
wild and unsettled as four centuries ago. In the 
midst of this virgin land, 40 miles from San 
Juan and close on the Haitian frontier, is Banica, 
founded by Velasquez in 1504, and with scarcely 
more trade or intercourse with the outside world 
than in the days of the conquest. 

All of this district is a mass of mountains, deep 
valleys, small plains, and rich river lands. 
Everywhere are mighty forests of gigantic trees 
of valuable wood ; a country marvellous in its re- 
sources, sublime in its scenery, and in many places 
unknown and unexplored save by occasional na- 
tives. 

Through this wonderful country flows the 
mighty Yaqui River of the south, and at its 
mouth on the great bay of Neyba is the town of 
Barahona, a city of about forty-five thousand in- 
habitants and the natural shipping point for ma- 



PLACES OF INTEREST 

hogany and other products of the great unsettled 
district to the north. 

The town of Neyba is on the eastern shores of 
Lake Enriquillo, an immense isolated body of fresh 
water with no apparent outlet and surrounded by 
a wide valley. South of this lake are Lakes 
Limon and Rincon, in which are not only fresh 
water fish but also salt water species, proving 
beyond a doubt that at some past time the lakes 
were connected with the sea. 

At the time of the conquest this country 
swarmed with Indians ruled by a queen or prin- 
cess known as Anacaona and famous for her per- 
sonal charms. Anacaona was visited by Bar- 
tholomew Columbus and other great men, but was 
captured and hung by the blood-thirsty Governor 
Ovando, who also butchered thousands of her sub- 
jects. On the monument to Columbus in the 
plaza before the cathedral in Santo Domingo 
City may be seen a bronze statue of this ill-fated 
princess standing at the feet of the discoverer. 
The figure is in the attitude of writing an in- 
scription laudatory of the Spaniards — surely a 
strange occupation for one who lost her life, 
honour, and people at the hands of the brutal 



304 SAN DOMINGO OF TO-DAY 

invaders. Not far from Rincon is the wonderful 
" Hill of Salt," known as Cerro de Sal, a moun- 
tain of pure rock salt and a natural wonder and 
curiosity of great commercial value if exploited. 

Travelling eastward from Azua towards the 
capital we find the town of Bani, founded in 1764, 
and situated in a marvellously beautiful valley by 
the sea. Bani has a wonderfully healthy climate 
and is famous for the notable men who were born 
there. The town is the birthplace of General 
Maximo Gomez, the liberator of Cuba ; Don Fran- 
cisco Billini, once president of the republic; and 
Rev. F. X. Billini, a famous clergyman and phi- 
lanthropist. 

Still further eastward is the town of San Chris- 
tobal, with about thirty thousand inhabitants, 
and the scene of many historical events. San 
Christobal is attractively located in a rich coun- 
try and is connecJ:ed with the capital by railway. 

There are many other beautifully situated and 
interesting towns in the republic, and wherever one 
travels he will find villages, towns, and tiny " bar- 
rios " tucked away in smiling valleys, on interior 
plains, or on rich hillsides. It is seldom indeed 
that these little settlements have hotels, boarding 



PLACES OF INTEREST S05 

houses, or other accommodations for travellers. 
The life is of the simplest and most primitive, 
but the people are kind, hospitable, and courteous 
to a degree, and will readily and freely give up 
their own homes to make the stranger comforta- 
ble and will share their scanty meals and con- 
sider it an honour. Time and again has the 
author arrived at some tiny interior village after 
nightfall, only to have the swarthy, brigandish- 
looking natives vie with one another to care for 
the horses, furnish food and drink, and move out 
of their own simple huts to provide sleeping ac- 
comodations for the visitor. 



PART ni 
HAITI, THE BLACK REPUBLIC 



CHAPTER IX 

HAITI AND ITS HISTORY 

There is probably no spot in the world, and cer- 
tainly none in the Western Hemisphere, to which 
the saying that " Distance lends enchantment to 
the view " is more applicable than to Haiti. The 
term " Black Republic," by which it is commonly 
known, is far from a propos, for while it certainly 
is black in morals, instincts, conditions, and the 
colour of its people, yet it cannot with truth be 
considered a " republic " save in theory. 

Although Haiti comprises but one-third of the 
island of Santo Domingo, yet its reputation is 
such that in the minds of the majority of people 
the " black republic " covers the entire island, 
and the poor Dominican Republic has suffered 
through the bad name of its neighbour and is 
classed in the same category. Although it must 
be admitted that the Dominicans are rather tur- 
bulent among themselves, that frequent revolu- 
tions, an unstable government, and a farcical form 
of republic have prevented the Dominican Republic 



310 SAN DOMINGO OF TO-DAY 

from progressing or becoming prosperous, yet it 
is by no means a " black " country nor are its 
people barbarous, half-civilised, or retrogressive. 
In Haiti, on the other hand, over 90 per cent of 
the million and one-half inhabitants are black, 
while the remaining ten per cent are of mixed 
white and African blood, — with the African 
strongly predominating, — the pure whites scarcely 
being represented, save by foreigners. 

In Haiti foreigners are looked down upon, are 
discouraged, and are hedged about with numerous 
restrictions, and cannot own land, and while a 
foreigner's life is scarcely ever in jeopardy, — 
unless he pries too closely into Haitian affairs, — 
yet under present conditions Haiti is no " white 
man's country." 

Even in the largest towns there is scarcely a 
sign of modem progress and development, sanita- 
tion is conspicuous by its absence, filth and dirt 
are on every hand, there are comparatively few 
decent buildings, and ragged blacks swarm every- 
where. In the country, conditions are even worse, 
for the people, unrestrained by a stable govern- 
ment, reared as it were on bloodshed, massacre, 
and warfare, have reverted to almost pristine 



HAITI AND ITS HISTORY 311 

African savagery in many places, and while they 
cultivate the land and live in semi-civilised villages, 
yet Obeah practices and Voodoo rites are carried 
on openly, and the serpent deities known as 
" Papa Loi " and " Maman Loi " hold far greater 
sway than the transient presidents of the re- 
public. 

It is a shame and a disgrace that such condi- 
tions should exist, for Haiti is a wonderful coun- 
try, with magnificent scenery, vast resources, in- 
calculable natural wealth, a splendid climate, and 
every advantage, and under a stable and proper 
administration, with sanitation, roads, and a civ- 
ilised, decent population, it would be one of the 
most beautiful and prosperous countries of the 
world. 

Haiti's earliest history is so intimately asso- 
ciated with the discovery and settlement of Amer- \ 
ica that one can almost overlook the shortcom- \ 
ings'l)f tHe republic on account of its historical 
interests. 

In later years Haiti became the " Paris of 
America," a land of fashion, prosperity, and 
wealth, only, — like Rome, — to fall through its 
own wealth and excesses, and from that time on- 



3ia SAN DOMINGO OF TO-DAY 

ward to become the scene of almost constant mas- 
sacres, butcheries, pestilence, and horrors. 

Haiti was discovered hj Columbus in 1492, and 
iat the Bay^of Cape Haitien, on the northern coast, 

Ihe met with his first serious disaster. Here on 
a reef at the entrance to the bay his flagship 
was wrecked on Christmas Eve, and as the guest 
of a native Indian chief the great admiral spent 

^his first American Christmas sorrowfully ashore. 
The wreckage of the Santa Maria was ^brought 
ashore at a spot near the present fisher village 
of Petit Anse, and at this place was erected the 
first European fort in the New World, which was 
named " La Navidad " (The Nativity), in 
honour of the day of the disaster to the flagship. 
Here, in this isolated fortress, Columbus placed a 
garrison of 40 men, and early in January, 
1496, set sail along the northern coast of the 
island, cruising as far as the present bay of 
Samana, from which point he set forth for Spain. 
On his return the following year he found the 
fort at Navidad burned and the poor garrison 
massacred, with only a few charred logs and 
whitened bones to tell the story of their tragic 
fate. 



HAITI AND ITS HISTORY 313 

The early discovery of gold in San Domingo 
brought numbers of adventurous spirits to the 
island, and the poor aborigines were forced to 
till the fields, toil in the mines, and perform every 
sort of manual labour for the proud and indolent 
Spaniards. The colonists drove the Indians with 
pitiless rigour, and a constant stream of gold 
poured from " Hispaniola," as the island was 
called, into the coffers of the Spanish king. 
Towns and cities were rapidly built and flourished 
in splendour, wealth, and magnificence, and in a 
comparatively short time the island became the 
most important and richest European possession 
in the New World. 

Meanwhile the Indians, unused to labour and 
the cruel exactions of their masters, were dying 
off^ so speedily that in fifteen years from the dis- 
covery of the island not over sixty thousand were 
left, although the original population was esti- 
mated at over one million, and within thirty 
years the Indian population was practically ex- 
terminated. 

For a number of years natives from the neigh- 
bouring islands were kidnapped and carried as 
slaves to Haiti, but this supply proved inade- 



314i SAN DOMINGO OF TO-DAY 

quate, and in 1502 Africans were purchased from 
the Portuiue^-''ftyr""seT^mu3^ 
a time, with iTiF African labour, the p^SiiJjiEritj of 
the colony continued, but with the decline of the 
gold supply and the discovery of new countries 
on the mainland, the most adventurous Spaniards 
migrated to Peru, Mexico, and other colonies and 
the importance of Hispaniola gradually dimin- 
ished. 

Throughout the early years of Spain's suprem- 
acy in the New World everything bordering on 
the Antillean seas was claimed by the King of 
Spain, but with the declaration of war between 
Spain and France, French and British privateers 
and pirates commenced to prey upon Spanish 
ships and Spanish cities in the West Indies, until 
their depredations became so unbearable that 
Spain sent fleets to destroy their rendezvous in 
St. Kitts. Xhe pirates and freebooters who es- 
caped gathered on the island of Tortuga, off the 
northern coast oi HarET^IaiiS^ this marked the com- 
mencement of the French occupation of that coun- 
try. Although repeatedly attacked by the Span- 
iards, these refugees managed to retain their 
stronghold and rapidly increased in numbers and 



HAITI AND ITS HISTORY 315 

even began to migrate to Haiti itself, establishing 
settlements, cultivating the land, and even import- 
ing slaves to the number of many thousands each 
year. So numerous became the French colonists 
and settlers that governors were sent out, and 
while Spain never relinquished her claim to the 
whole island of San Domingo and attempted re- 
peatedly to regain her territory by force of arms, 
yet the French still retained their foothold in the 
western district. At last, in 1697, when Louis 
XIV concluded the treaty of Ryswick with the 
allied powers, all that part of the island actually 
occupied by the French subjects was secured to 
France, and from that time dates the recognised 
authority of the French in Haiti. 

It was not until 1770 that a zigzag boundary 
was run from Fort Dauphin and Manzanillo Bay 
on the north coast to Anses-a-Pitres on the south, 
thus accurately defining the Spanish and French 
portions of the island. 

In 1795, however, Spain ceded the entire island 
to France, but the eastern portion was again re- 
turned to Spain after the downfall of Napoleon 
and the restoration of the Bourbons. 

At the conclusion of the treaty of 1776 France 



S16 SAN DOMINGO OF TO-DAY 

was at peace with all Europe, but very soon war 
was declared with Great Britain, and in 1779 
Count, de^ Est aing was^^^Jl^^iba^^P^jJaii^^jc^^ 
in the French Antilles to aid the American colo- 
nies in their war of independence. In this way 
it happened that some eight hundred black, Hai- 
tian volunteers took part in the siege of Savannah 
and showed conspicuous bravery during several 
engagements. During all these years the colony 
of Haiti had been prospering and had become so 
rich and so filled with the wealth and society of 
the French that the town of Cape Haitien was 
known as the " Paris of America " and rivalled 
any other city in the New World. Here, in this 
tropical land, were 30,000 whites living in 
luxury and elegance, deriving their revenue 
from the toiling black slaves, while 30,000 mu- 
lattoes, — offspring of the slaves and their white 
masters, — were smarting under humiliating social, 
industrial, and legal restrictions, although many 
were nominally free men; and behind all, sullen, 
silent, but as dangerous as a slumbering volcano, 
were half a million black slaves suffering under 
the most unbearable cruelties and ready to break 
forth with fire and destruction at any moment. 



HAITI AND ITS HISTORY 317 

At last, in 1789, the opportunity arose, and 
with the arrival of the news of the decrees of the 



National Assembly at Versailles, open anarchy 
and msurrection^ broke forth, and in the terrible 
\ times which followed ^11 of the parlies appeared to 
s vie with one another in committing the most hor- 
I rible atrocities and cruelties. This was the fa- 
I mous " negro insurrection in San Domingo," and 
it is doubtful if any civilised land has ever gone 
through a more terrible time of massacre, blood- 
shed, and fire, with every fiendish accompaniment 
that black savagery and unbridled passions could 
suggest. Men, women, and children were torn 
asunder and burned ahve, white infants were im- 
paled alive and carried screaming above the shout- 
ing hordes of black fiends, and the country estates 
and smaller towns were burned and devastated 
throughout the land. 

Finally the commissioners sent from France 
proclaimed general emancipation in 1793, and on 
February 4, 1794, the French Assembly pro-^ 
claimed complete emancipation of the slaves in all 
the French colonies, and while this legally ended 
slavery in Haiti, yet in reality it had ceased long 
before; for throughout the colony the slaves had 



318 SAN DOMINGO OF TO-DAY 

rebelled and were in possession of most of the 
country. 

At this time several of the self-freed blacks, 
who had gone to the Spanish settlements on the 
eastern part of the island, returned to Haiti. 
Among these leaders was one, Toussaint I'Over- 
ture, who at once flung his sword into the balance 
in favour of France, which was at war with Spain 
and England. This ex-slave developed extraor- 
dinary military genius, and at the head of his 
men he soon drove the British from their foothold 
in the north and restored comparative quiet and 
order to the land. Unlike the other blacks, 
rOverture was generous and humane, and to this 
day his character and name shine out as the only 
bright spot on the black pages of those bloody 
days. Tranquillity having been restored, I'Over- 
ture devoted himself to reorganisation and soon 
became practically the sole governing power of 
Haiti. Soon planters returned to their estates, 
industry recommenced, and under the new organ- 
isation there seemed promise of a peaceful future. 

During Toussaint's reorganisation work he 
promulgated a constitution which conferred con- 
siderable power on himself, and while this was 



HAITI AND ITS HISTORY 319 

made subject to approval by France, yet it 
aroused Napoleon's suspicions and induced him to 
listen to the appeal of planters who considered 
themselves ruined by the emancipation. Finally 
in 1802 he sent an expeditisja con§is,tiRg of 30,000 
men and 40 ships to Haiti, under the command of 
his n5rother-in-law, ^Gene^^ with the" 

avowed'oBJect of restorihg slavery. The expedi- 
tionTanded at Cape Haitien on the 12th of Feb- 
ruary, and I'Overture, resolving to resist the at- 
tempt to restore the blacks to slavery, at once 
commenced hostilities. This second war was even 
more horrible than the former insurrection, and 
led by Toussaint, Dessalines, and Christophe, the 
negroes and mulattoes burned, ravished, and 
slaughtered with the most savage and devilish 
methods they could devise, while the French, 
driven mad by revenge, committed like inhumani- 
ties, only to be met with more fiendish retaliations 
until the land literally ran with blood and the 
country became a veritable hell of unspeakable 
atrocities committed by both whites and blacks. 

More troops were sent from France, Toussaint 
was treacherously captured and sent in chains to 
France, where he died, and yellow fever stepped in 



SAN DOMINGO OF TO-DAY 

to aid the blood-crazed blacks to exterminate the 
French; but still the war went on, until in De- 
cember, 1805, the French withdrew with a loss 
of nearly sixty thousand men and a cost of over 
two hundred million francs ; all of which was 
brought about by the perfidy of Napoleon. 

Haiti was now freed from the foreign troops 
and was completely in the hands of the negroes. 
Under a monster known as General Jean Jacques 
Dessalines, the blacks and mulattoes commenced to 
systematically exterminate the few remaining 
whites, and proceeding from house to house the 
Africans butchered every Caucasian they could 
find or dragged them forth to execute them in 
the market places amid the most savage orgies 
and barbarous accompaniments. 

Dessalines, in the meantime, promulgated the 
Declaration of Haitian Independence, and was 
proclaimed Goverfew?«Gefieral for life ; but he was 
assassinated in November, 1806, and was suc- 
ceeded by Petion, who was harassed and kept 
constantly at war by Christophe, who set up 
a government in the north and styled himself 
King Henry I. In 1820 Christophe, who had 
lived in dread of a return of the French, committed 



HAITI AND ITS HISTORY 321 

suicide, and Bojer assumed the leadership of the 
republic. 

Meanwhile, the cities of culture, prosperity, 
and wealth reverted to miserable villages of negro 
huts ; the great cathedrals, the fountains and 
statuary, the magnificent residences, and the 
splendid public buildings were burned or neglected 
until destroyed and crumbled by earthquake and 
the elements, until to-day the once gay and fash- 
ionable towns are ramshackle, rambling settle- 
ments amid the ruins of past culture. 

Truly the Haitiens have reaped as they sowed; 
and while the part that France played wiU ever 
remain a blot on her escutcheon, yet looking 
back upon those blood-stained days we can 
scarcely pity the Haitiens for their present condi- 
tion nor can marvel that a republic founded upon 
massacre and torture should be torn asunder by 
constant warfare and the prey to dishonesty, 
despotism, and unbridled passions. 



CHAPTER X 

Haiti's towns and cities 

The capital and largest city of Haiti is Port au 
Prince, a city of about seventy thousand inhab- 
itants, situated on the western coast at the head 
of a deep gulf or bay. Port au Prince is a dirty, 
wretched city, with ruined and half-ruined build- 
ings giving it an air of sadness and hopelessness 
that is quite pitiful to behold. 

With every natural advantage in situation, cli- 
mate, and surroundings to make it a metropolis 
of the West Indies, yet the capital of Haiti is 
poverty-stricken, dilapidated, and forlorn, lack- 
ing in nearly every modern convenience and im- 
provement and with poverty and squalour side by 
side with wealth and culture on every hand. 
Black and brown men and women dressed in the 
latest Parisian fashions pick their way through 
the rough and filthy streets, splendid carriages 
drive through stagnant pools and over the broken 
cobbles, glorious tropical vegetation grows un- 
kempt and uncared for in gardens surrounded by 



HAITI'S TOWNS AND CITIES 3£3 

crumbling, broken walls and sagging gates, while 
miserable native huts lean drunkenly against the 
walls of once fine palaces and public buildings. 

Port au Prince was nearly destroyed by earth- 
quake in 1770, and it has been so frequently sub- 
jected to serious conflagrations that it is said that 
the equivalent of the entire town has been de- 
stroyed by fire every twenty-five years. 

There are but a few good buildings in the town, 
among them the national palace, — a huge, one- 
story building of brick and wood, wherein the 
gold-laced, gaily-uniformed negro, who happens 
to hold the reins of government, resides amid a 
tawdry imitation of pomp and ceremony. In the 
great, bare cathedral even the saints and virgins 
are painted black and brown to correspond with 
the national colour of the people, and at every 
turn one is constantly reminded that this is a 
black man's country. 

Fronting the palace is a large field known as 
the " Champ de Mars," where parades and re- 
views of ragged soldiery are held, goats pastured, 
and semi-naked urchins play and laze. 

The market-place is large but filthy, and is 
filled with a great variety of fruits, vegetables, 



324 SAN DOMINGO OF TO-DAY 

and other products, and with half-wild Africans, 
who have brought the produce from the outlying 
country districts. There are two or three hotels 
in the town, and strangely enough the meals at 
some are well cooked and well served, but all 
luxuries of hotel life, and most of the necessities 
as well, are sadly lacking. The stores are many 
of them large and well stocked and the buildings 
occupied by the various consulates, the steamship 
agents, the commission merchants, foreign store- 
keepers, banking houses, and larger merchants are 
clean, attractive, and in good repair. 

Some of the buildings are quite imposing, 
notable among them the various edifices devoted 
to commerce, the churches and the schools, as well 
as the National Foundry. 

The town possesses tram car lines and the be- 
ginning of a railway leading to the interior, and 
within the city limits are over one thousand li- 
censed cabs locally called " busses." 

Port au Prince has quite a large number of for- 
eign inhabitants and white residents, and if the 
visitor to the dejected city is fortunate enough to 
know some of these he will find that a short stay in 
the town and vicinity may be made quite pleasant. 



HAITI'S TOWNS AND CITIES 325 

About five miles from the town is the suburb 
of La Coupe, a beautifully situated resort at an 
altitude of about twelve hundred feet above the 
sea. 

This is the warm weather residence of the 
better people of Port au Prince and contains 
numerous really fine residences. The climate is 
superb, a cool breeze always blows from the sea, 
the view of the bay is magnificent, and there are 
natural baths among the trees. A greater change 
than that between Port au Prince, — the stinking, 
hot, pestilential capital, — and cool, clean, at- 
tractive, and healthy La Coupe it is difficult to im- 
agine. 

Sailing westward along the northern coast 
of the long peninsula which bounds Port au Prince 
Bay on the south, the next port reached is Mira- 
goane, about seventy-five miles west of the capital. 
This city lies at the edge of a mountainous district, 
where coff^ee is grown extensively and where dye 
and cabinet woods abound, all of which are 
shipped from this port. Near the town is a large 
lake about eight miles in width and seven miles 
in length and fully two hundred feet in depth. 
Near the eastern end of this lake is the port of 



326 SAN DOMINGO OF TO-DAY 

Petit Goave, with a considerable export trade 
and a port of call for numerous ships. Just north 
of Miragoane lies the island of Gonave, or 
Gonaive, some thirty-five miles in length by nine 
in width, and covered with a heavy forest growth 
wherein cabinet and dye woods abound, and with 
a large lake near the centre and numerous fresh- 
water springs. Although this beautiful island 
is larger than many of the lesser Antilles, yet it 
is scarcely inhabited, and a few fishermen about 
the coasts, a few lumbermen in the interior, and 
a few half-wild squatters who cultivate tiny gar- 
dens of yams and fruits comprise its entire popu- 
lation. 

Still further westward and almost at the tip 
of the long Tiburon peninsula lies the town of 
Jeremie, a port from which sugar and coflPee are 
exported and the outlet for a wonderfully fertile 
district capable of producing untold wealth if 
properly cultivated and provided with good roads 
and a stable government. Jeremie has little to 
recommend it and little of interest save that it is 
the westernmost town of importance on the island 
of Santo Domingo and was the birthplace of 
Alexander Dumas the elder. 



HAITI'S TOWNS AND CITIES 327 

Rounding Cape Tiburon and proceeding east- 
ward along the southern coast of the peninsula, 
the towns of Aux Cayes and Jacmel are reached. 
The former lies on the shore of a great crescent- 
shaped indentation, with the Isle de Vache a short 
distance off the shore. Aux Cayes is an important 
port for sugar, coffee, dyewoods, and other prod- 
ucts are shipped, and the locality is famous for 
its excellent rum. Aside from this, the town is of 
little interest to travellers, although the country 
between it and Jeremie is excessively rich and 
very beautiful. Still further to the east and the 
last port of importance on the southern coast is 
Jacmel, with a beautiful bay or open roadstead 
hemmed in with coral reefs. Jacmel is surrounded 
by magnificent scenery, and forested hills and 
mountains rise behind it in tier upon tier of green 
tropical vegetation, but the city itself, like Port 
aU Prince, is a place of neglect and decay, with an 
utter disregard for sanitation or improvement, 
and is only of interest as showing how improvi- 
dent, backward, and unprogressive the negro be- 
comes when freed from the guidance and example 
of the white race. 

Some distance north of Port au Prince, and on 



SAN DOMINGO OF TO-DAY 

the same great bay as the capital, is the town of 
St. Marc. Behind the port sweeps the great and 
fertile plain of the Artibonite, a large river that 
flows down from the interior mountain ranges, and 
before the town lies the deep and beautiful bay. 
It is a location of surpassing beauty, of vast re- 
sources, and of splendid climate, but the traveller 
who is not obliged to visit the town will be just 
as well off if he stays away. Sugar cane, to- 
bacco, cotton, coffee, and other products are 
grown and shipped, but the town is no more pro- 
gressive or inviting than the other Haitian ports. 
Moreover, St. Marc is a frequent battle ground 
for the squabbling Haitiens during their numer- 
ous and almost periodical revolutions, so that 
there is little incentive for the inhabitants to at- 
tempt to either improve the town or their own 
resources, as any indication of wealth or pros- 
perity merely tempts the ruthless thieves of 
soldiery of both warring factions. 

Further north, and on the same bay, lies the 
town of Gonaives, a port of about twenty thou- 
sand inhabitants, and important commercially, as 
large quantities of mahogany, dyewoods, and 
agricultural products are exported. It was at this 



HAITI'S TOWNS AND CITIES 329 

town that the leader of the negro uprising, — 
Toussaint I'Overture, — was seized by the French. 

Continuing northward and rounding the end of 
the northern peninsula a wonderful natural port is 
found. This is Mole San Nicolas, which was dis- 
covered by Columbus in 1492, but still remains 
almost as unused and lonely as when first entered 
by the discoverer over four centuries ago. 

Situated but a bare sixty miles from eastern 
Cuba, commanding the Windward Passage and the 
sea approaches to Panama, Jamaica, and the 
south; deep enough to float the largest ship in 
the world and large enough to accommodate a 
huge navy, yet no power holds this port. Time and 
again the United States have carried on negotia- 
tions looking towards the possession of Mole San 
Nicolas as a coaling station and naval base, but 
it remains to-day a little neglected hole-in-the- 
wall in the hands of the Haitiens. 

Beyond Mole San Nicolas a narrow passage 
leads between the northern shore and the outlying 
island of Tortuga. This island, which is 21 
miles long and nearly four miles wide, was for 
m^ny years the favourite retreat and stronghold 
of pirates and buccaneers and probably contains 



330 SAN DOMINGO OF TO-DAY 

more buried treasure than any other spot in the 
Spanish Main. 

The buccaneers, driven from their haunts in 
the smaller British and French islands, settled 
in numbers on Tortuga and defied the King of 
Spain and all his navy to drive them forth. For 
over thirty years the " brethren of the seas " 
lived upon the island of Tortuga, their craft lying 
safely at anchor in the well-protected harbour 
and faring forth to prey upon passing ships; 
while ashore, villages were built, cattle were 
raised, and gardens cultivated. Indeed it was 
from the jerked or sun-dried beef of Tortuga, 
and known as "bucan," that these freebooters 
were given the name of " buccaneers," a term by 
which they were known thoughout the seven seas 
and which still exists as a synonym for a sea rover 
and pirate. 

When at last the stronghold on Tortuga was 
broken up and the pirate leaders had been killed, 
captured, or had retired on their ill-gotten gains 
to lead the life of gentlemen, many of the buc- 
caneers migrated to the main island and settled 
down to a peaceful life. Others remained on Tor- 
tuga, and to-day many of the descendants of 



HAITI'S TOWNS AND CITIES 331 

these old pirates dwell upon Tortuga and culti- 
vate the ground, raise cattle, or gather dj^e- 
woods. 

On the northern shore of the main island and 
opposite Tortuga is the town of Port de Paix, 
the outlet of a large and magnificent valley and 
a fairly flourishing town, — from Haitian stand- 
points. It is entirely a black town, with few 
coloured folk, and is no place for a white man, 
which is also the case with the nearby port of 
Acul, a harbour so beautiful and so lavishly pro- 
vided with natural advantages that Columbus gave 
it the name of " Val de Paraiso," or "Vale of 
Paradise," 

All along this northern coast are wonderful 
natural harbours, each surrounded with the riches 
and luxuriance of a most bountiful nature and 
even more desolate and solitary than when first 
discovered by Columbus. In those days Haiti 
teemed with a quiet, peaceful race of Indians, who 
tilled the soil and lived happily in this fair land, 
while to-day vast stretches of coast are unbroken 
by a single house or hut and the splendid har- 
bours protect naught but weather-beaten, crudely 
built fishing boats drawn upon the beachesy 



SAN DOMINGO OF TO-DAY 

The last and most important town upon Haiti's 
northern coast is Cape Haitien, more familiarly 
and widely known as " The Cape." Once a centre 
of wealth, elegance, and luxury, with spacious 
residential grounds, an imposing cathedral, beauti- 
ful squares and plazas, fountains and statuary, 
Cape Haitien has fallen to a lowly state indeed. 
What was spared by the torch of the savage black 
hordes has fallen into ruin and decay, for once 
a building in Haiti is injured or partially de- 
stroyed it is never rebuilt, and at The Cape we 
will find a city of huts and hovels springing up 
amid the skeletons of former grandeur, the foun- 
tains dry and filled with rubbish, the gardens and 
parks mere jungles of unkempt vegetation, the 
streets rough, undrained, and filthy, and the peo- 
ple lazy, dirty, shiftless, and rapidly drifting 
back toward the African savagery of their an- 
cestors. 

One place in the vicinity of Cape Haitien is 
well worth visiting, however, and that is Sans 
Souci and the " Black King's Castle." 

When the French troops under General Leclerc 
atta« i^ed Cape Haitien, then in possession of the 
blackL, the commander of the natives, a negro 

l 
V 



V 



\ 



HAITI'S TOWNS AND CITIES 

" general " named Christophe, set fire to the town 
before retreating with his savage horde to the 
hills. Later this same Christophe became the 
second ruler of Haiti under the dominion of the 
blacks, and in 1811 he proclaimed himself king. 
Honouring his black consort with the title of 
queen, he proceeded to form a native Haitien no- 
bility consisting of his own children as " princes 
of the royal blood " ; three " princes of the king- 
dom " ; eight " dukes " ; twenty " counts " ; thirty- 
seven " barons," and eleven " chevaliers," each 
and every one an ex-slave or the descendant of a 
slave. 

Under the title of " King Henry," Christophe 
ruled in state with nine royal palaces, eight royal 
chateaux, coaches and horses galore, innumerable 
retainers and servants, a tremendous bodyguard, 
and all the pomp, ceremony, and display of true 
royalty. 

Of all King Henry's possessions, the most mag- 
nificent and beautiful, and the only one which re- 
mains as a testimonial to his wealth and power, 
is the palace of Sans Souci, — probably the most 
wonderful architectural creation in the West 
Indies. 



334 SAN DOMINGO OF TO-DAY 

Sans Souci is located at the head of beautiful 
Millot Valley, at the base of high, verdure-clad 
hills down which flow sparkling streams to irrigate 
gardens of coffee and other tropical plants,^— 
the whole forming a scene as lovely as anything 
on earth. 

Sans Souci may be easily reached by horses 
from Cape Haitien, and a guide may be secured 
in the town, while letters or a permit must be 
obtained from the Commandante in order to visit 
the ruins of the wonderful palace. 

Sans Souci is now scarcely more than a gaunt 
skeleton, but even in its decay is impressive and 
vast, its roofless walls, arched entrances, and ter- 
raced gardens still evidences of the former 
grandeur of the place. In an open plaza or parade 
before the palace there stands an enormous star- 
apple tree beneath which the black king held 
many a levee and audience in the days of his 
power, but all is forsaken and forlorn, for the 
king committed suicide by shooting himself in 
the head, — following out his love of display by 
using a silver bullet, — ^and Haiti's black dynasty 
lives only in story and in the descendants of 
Henry's self-appointed nobility. 



HAITI'S TOWNS AND CITIES 335 

Even greater and more wonderful than Sans 
Souci was that second structure erected by this 
king, — the fortress on La Ferriere, a lofty 
pyramid-shaped mountain some twenty miles in- 
land from Cape Haitien and one of the most 
striking features of the landscape from the sea. 

Upon the level summit of this peak the black 
king built a fortress, at such a sacrifice of life 
and labour that it may be truly said to rest upon 
the bones of its builders. Here in the vast soli- 
tary forest stands this mighty fort, a solid mono- 
lith-like structure frowning down upon the coun- 
tryside, a vast and stupendous labour that would 
tax any king and country, but which was carried 
out by ignorant slaves under the cruel, pitiless 
guidance of a semi-savage monarch. Here to this 
mountain-top every stone was hauled by human 
hands, every piece of artillery, — and there are 
hundreds, — was dragged up to the summit by 
gangs of men, and here, as a last refuge, the black 
king stored vast quantities of grain and food, of 
ammunition, flints, bullets, powder, clothing, tools, 
and a treasure amounting to more than thirty mil- 
lion dollars. 

Above the summit of the cone-shaped mountain 



336 SAN DOMINGO OF TO-DAY 

the migLty walls of the fort tower upwards for 
100 feet. About them is a wide, deep moat, 
spanned by a single drawbridge, and within 
are enormous galleries one above another, and 
mounting scores, yes hundreds, of cannon. In 
the centre of the great structure is the tomb of 
the king, but like the treasure vault nearby, open 
and rifled of its contents. But while the mortal 
remains of the black monarch have long since 
disappeared, his fort still stands upon its lofty 
perch above the wilderness and his rusting cannon 
still point their mute muzzles towards an expected 
foe that never came to invade the solitude or to 
disturb the reign of the negro king. 



CHAPTER XI 

THE INTERIOR OF HAITI AND ITS RESOURCES 

What has already been said of the character of 
the interior, the resources, and the scenery of the 
Dominican Republic is in a measure also true of 
Haiti, for the two republics are separated only 
by an imaginary boundary line and the same fauna 
and flora are common to both sides of the island 
with few exceptions. 

Many of the rivers which rise m the Dominican 
Republic flow into Haitian waters, the same 
mountain ranges run from east to west on the 
northern and southern sections of the two re- 
publics, and one of the largest inland lakes is half 
in one republic and half in the other. 

If such a thing were possible, Haiti is even 
more fertile and more luxuriant than the Do- 
minican Republic, and while the mountains are 
not as high nor the scenery so majestic, yet its 
rich and fertile valleys, wide grass-covered plains, 
undulating savannas, and lofty forest-covered 
mountains are wonderfully beautiful and are fully 
837 



338 SAN DOMINGO OF TO-DAY 

equal in their wild grandeur to many parts of the 
Dominican Republic and far excel any other island 
in the West Indies. 

Haiti is a well-watered country, although large 
rivers are not as numerous as in the neighbouring 
republic, 43 streams being worthy the name of 
river, the largest being the Artibonite, which 
rises far in the north on the Dominican frontier, 
flows southerly, and forms a portion of the bound- 
ary line of the two republics, turns westward, and 
flowing across the broad coastal plain, enters the 
sea near St. Marc. Another branch of this great 
river rises a few miles south of Cape Haitien, 
while a third tributary has its origin on the slopes 
of Mt. Loma Tina in the Dominican Republic. 
Thus this one river drains an enormous amount 
of the interior of Haiti and its numerous branches 
and tributaries form a system which waters the 
greater part of the most fertile area of the re- 
public. Numerous other smaller rivers flow from 
the Cordilleras, both north and south, into the 
seas, and scarce a spot in Haiti is parched, 
barren, or dry, and nearly every square mile of 
its nine thousand odd square miles is capable of 
being cultivated and of yielding a wonderful har- 



INTERIOR OF HAITI 339 

vest of fruits, vegetables, or other tropical prod- 
ucts. Even the areas that are unfitted for agri- 
culture are marvellously rich, for the forests 
abound in mahogany, lignum-vitae, ebony, lance- 
wood, cedar, satin-wood, balata, green-heart, pine, 
yellowwood, logwood, sapota, mamee, purple- 
heart, and scores of other valuable and beautiful 
cabinet woods and dyewoods. In many parts of 
the republic gold is found in the streams, and the 
early Spanish discoverers found the Indians wear- 
ing numerous gold nuggets as ornaments. Cop- 
per, iron, nickel, petroleum, tin, bismuth, mercury, 
and other minerals occur in numerous situations, 
and no doubt still other natural riches could be 
located by an exploration of the vast interior 
forests and almost unknown mountains of the 
republic. 

The fauna of Haiti is rich in bird life, the same 
species being found as in the Dominican Republic, 
while the insects, reptiles, and mammals are iden- 
tical save that in Haiti the Solenodon, or " Al- 
miqui," is probably extinct and the Hutia, or 
Capromys, is exceedingly rare. The rivers, lakes, 
and coasts abound with fish; oysters are found 
in the swamps and bays ; lobsters, crabs, and craw- 



340 SAN DOMINGO OF TO-DAY 

fish swarm in the coastal waters and streams, and 
on every hand an abundant supply of sea-food is 
provided by nature. 

The flora consists of the same plants, trees, 
and shrubs as in the Dominican Republic, and 
every tropical and many temperate fruits and 
vegetables may be grown successfully. 

Haiti is not naturally unhealthy, but lack 
of sanitation or hygienic conditions have caused 
many of the towns to be perfect pestholes 
of disease. In every case, however, Haiti's towns 
could be made as healthy and free from disease as 
the towns of Porto Rico or Cuba. 

Yellow fever is not now as common as in years 
past, typhoid is not troublesome, pulmonary dis- 
eases are rare, but malaria, smallpox, dysentery, 
and mild fevers are very prevalent. In 1881-8S 
Haiti was visited by an epidemic of smallpox 
which raged for several months and wiped out 
thousands of lives, but cholera, bubonic plague, 
and other epidemics are practically unknown. 
Tetanus is excessively common and the slightest 
wound or abrasion is liable to result in lockjaw. 
Leprosy, yaws, syphilis, and elephantiasis are 
prevalent and the disgusting and malformed vie- 



INTERIOR OF HAITI 341 

tims of these repulsive diseases are seen in all parts 
of the republic, often taking advantage of their 
terrible condition as a means of obtaining alms 
and begging in the public streets and market- 
places. 

The climate of Haiti varies according to the 
locality and altitude. On the coast it is generally 
vel-y hot, Port au Prince being probably the hottest 
town in the West Indies. From the middle of 
April until the first of November the mercury 
averages from 94° to 96° every day, seldom rising 
above 97° and seldom falling below 93°, and the 
nights averaging from ten to twenty degrees 
cooler than the days. From November until April 
the mercury averages from 84° to 86° daily, but 
on occasion running as high as 95° if land breezes 
happen to prevail. Away from the coast almost 
any temperature may be found, and within a few 
hours' ride of the sea, — as at Turey, — an altitude 
of some sixteen hundred feet may be attained, 
where the thermometer falls to 45° or lower at 
night. 

In climate, healthfulness, fertility, resources, 
and all other natural conditions, Haiti compares 
favourably with the most advanced and prosperous 



342 SAN DOMINGO OF TO-DAY 

of tropical countries, and yet it is the most back- 
ward, poverty-stricken, undeveloped, and unat- 
tractive of the West Indies. 

One of the principal causes of the condition of 
Haiti is the lack of good roads and other means 
of inland transportation. In the days of the 
French occupation there were numerous splendid 
highways leading from one town and village to 
another as well as to the numerous fine planta- 
tions and estates. After the expulsion of the 
French these magnificent highways were neglected 
and uncared for, until to-day they are rough, full 
of ruts and mud-holes, and so narrowed by the 
ever-encroaching vegetation that they are scarcely 
more than forest trails, such as might be found in 
darkest Africa. Here and there are rude bridges 
across the streams or the crumbling remains of the 
once fine structures built by the French, but as a 
rule all streams are forded, and there is a common 
saying, "Never cross a bridge if you can go 
around it." It is the same way with the great 
estates that were once the scene of busy industry 
and great prosperity. Now and then the run- 
down plantations may still be seen, with half- 
ruined buildings occupied by negroes and the once 



INTERIOR OF HAITI 343 

well-tilled fields and orchards partially cleared and 
sporadically cultivated. Many a great estate lies 
hidden deep within the forests, its walls broken 
and overgrown with vines, great trees sprouting 
from the couTts that were once the scene of 
merrymaking and luxurious pleasure, the outbuild- 
ings mounds of greenery, and the once richly fur- 
nished halls the haunt of countless bats, night- 
birds, and lizards. 

From Port au Prince a trail leads southward 
to the Dominican Republic, passing the huge lakes 
of Fondo and Enriquillo and traversing a wonder- 
fully rich and interesting country ; but it is a hard 
road to travel and one must indeed be a lover of 
nature to undertake the overland route unless 
driven by necessity. Another " road " connects 
the city of Port au Prince with St. Marc, Go- 
naives, and Cape Haitien, but it is as poor as the 
others, while the numerous inland routes across 
the border of the Dominican Republic are bad 
beyond expression. 

Much capital would have been invested in Haiti 
and Haitian improvements were it not for the un- 
stable government, the frequent disastrous revolu- 
tions, and the fact that foreigners cannot own 



SU SAN DOMINGO OF TO-DAY 

property in the republic and can seldom obtain 
redress for injury or loss of any kind. As a re- 
sult, important industries or undertakings are 
lacking, and as long as the blacks hold sway and 
Haiti retains the present customs, laws, habits, 
and obstructive policies towards foreigners, the 
island's resources will remain unexploited and the 
republic will continue, — as it is to-day, — a re- 
pulsive ulcer on the richest and fairest of lands. 



CHAPTER XII 

PEOPLE, CUSTOMS, GOVERNMENT, EDUCATION 

In 1791 the population of Haiti amounted to 
nearly one-half a million, consisting of about 
thirty thousand whites, thirty thousand mulattoes, 
and four hundred and fifty-five thousand blacks. 
Since that time no accurate census has been taken, 
although in 1860 an enumeration was undertaken, 
but which only went far enough to prove that the 
entire population was under a million. Later the 
Roman Catholic clergy attempted a census, and 
while not formal or ofiicial, the result showed about 
one million inhabitants. Owing to the innumera- 
ble wars and revolutions, the male population of 
Haiti has been decimated and the females out- 
number the males about three to one. Less than 
one-tenth of the entire population consists of 
whites and mixed races, the bulk, or nine-tenths, 
being practically pure blacks. Although to 
northerners these people seem of unadulterated 
African blood, yet in Haiti, as in the other West 
Indies, the people themselves distinguish between 
345 



346 SAN DOMINGO OF TO-DAY 

the various admixtures and have a special name 
to designate every gradation of colour or shade 
from the pure negro to the almost pure whites. 
Thus the offspring of a black and a mulatto is a 
" griff e" (feminine, " griff ona "), the child of a 
griff e or griff ona and a negro is a "marabo," or 
" marabout," and so on. 

There have been several attempts to increase 
Haiti's population by inducing immigration from 
other countries, the first in 1824, when a number 
of coloured people emigrated from the United 
States. Although few of these people became 
prosperous, yet a number of their descendants 
are in the republic and still retain their American 
names and language. 

A second effort was made in 1860, when exceed- 
ingly liberal terms were offered American col- 
oured families. Under this offer passages of the 
settlers were to be paid, land was to be given free, 
and the colonists were to be housed and cared 
for until they could establish their own homes, 
and in addition the new arrivals were to be free 
from military service under the Haitien Govern- 
ment. Although a fully equipped emigration 
bureau was opened in Boston and every effort was 



PEOPLE AND CUSTOMS 347 

made to obtain successful results, yet it amounted 
to little more than the first attempt, and no fur- 
ther efforts have been made to augment the popu- 
lation in this way. 

As a rule the natives are honest, hospitable, 
and happy, and a stranger may travel in perfect 
safety anywhere, provided he does not interfere 
in the people's lives, politics, or customs, or does 
not attempt to pry into their private affairs. 

The language of the republic is French, which is 
spoken and written in its purest form by the edu- 
cated upper classes, many of whom are educated 
in Europe. The language of the country, how- 
ever, is the " Creole," or " Patois," which is really 
a distinct language, although founded upon and 
originally a dialect of French. Creole was evolved 
during slavery days, when the French whites were 
obliged to find a means of communication with 
the slaves drawn from numerous African tribes. 
Under such conditions a dialect was evolved having 
French as a basis, but so greatly abbreviated, con- 
densed, and simplified, and with so many African 
words included, that it became practically a lan- 
guage by itself. 

Creole is essentially a spoken language, and 



348 SAN DOMINGO OF TO-DAY 

while primers, the Bible, and other books have 
been written in patois, yet its crudity and pecul- 
iarities are not adapted to literature. Little at- 
tention is given to gender, number, or case; plu- 
rality is indicated by a participle and only when 
absolutely essential, and as a rule the feminine ad- 
jectives are used. The articles are of little im- 
portance and the verb is never changed, — five- 
monosyllabic participles being used to distinguish 
modes and tenses. There is but one form for 
each of the personal pronouns and conjunctions, 
prepositions, etc., are sacrificed right and left, 
and yet with this crude, half-savage tongue every 
gradation of emotion and thought may be freely 
expressed. 

It must be remembered, however, that Haitian 
patois is absolutely distinct from the patois of 
other French provinces and colonies. It bears 
little resemblance to French Canadian and differs 
materially from the Creole or patois French of 
the other French West Indies. Even the smaller 
French islands have distinct Creole dialects, and 
Guadeloupe, Dominica, Martinique, St. Lucia, and 
Trinidad each has its own patois, which differs 
in many ways from all others ; and while a person 



PEOPLE AND CUSTOMS 349 

thoroughly familiar with one dialect may be able 
to speak and understand that of another island, 
yet in many ways the dialects are as distinct as 
the various Latin-European languages. 

With all its retrogression Haiti is not blind to 
the value of education, and schools are not by 
any means lacking in the republic. As long ago 
as 1860 there were 136 schools in Haiti, with an 
attendance of over ten thousand pupils, while in 
1891 the number had increased to 750, with 33,391 
pupils, besides numerous private schools and 
schools of the various religious denominations. 
There is also a law school, a " Lycee," or Na- 
tional College, as well as various seminaries, 
schools, and other educational institutions for 
girls conducted by the Sisters of the Catholic 
Church, while a large number of the Haitiens of 
the educated or wealthier classes send their chil- 
dren to Europe and America to be educated. 

Although nominally the government is a re- 
public, and its powers are defined and limited by 
a written constitution, yet it does not trouble a 
Haitian president to set aside this important docu- 
ment or to alter it to suit his own ideas and ends. 
Certain portions of the constitution have, how- 



350 SAN DOMINGO OF TO-DAY 

ever, remained unaltered from the first, such pro- 
visions as the freedom of religious worship, the 
inviolability of territory, the equality of citizens, 
trial by jury, encouragement of education, and sim- 
ilar matters having withstood all the vicissitudes 
of warfare, revolution, and the various dictators 
that have guided, or rather misguided, Haiti 
through its one hundred and ten years of inde- 
pendence. 

The President is the chief executive, and is 
elected for a term of seven years, with the possi- 
bility of re-election to a second term of the same, 
length. The President is entitled to a cabinet of 
six ministers, and no act of the President, other 
than naming or retiring members of his cabinet, 
is valid unless it is countersigned by one of the 
cabinet ministers. These men can be and fre- 
quently are elected members of congress, and 
whether members of that body or not, they can 
appear before it to advocate or explain measures, 
etc., and are compelled to appepr when the House 
so requests. The Legislature, or National Con- 
gress, consists of two Houses, — a Chamber of 
Deputies and a Senate. The former consists of 
members elected by free suffrage from each com- 



PEOPLE AND CUSTOMS 351 

mune according to the population, but every com- 
mune is entitled to at least one deputy. This 
house selects the senators from two lists, sub- 
mitted, one by the executive and one by the elec- 
toral assembly. When the two houses convene 
they constitute the National Assembly, and it is 
this body that elects the President. The Legis- 
lature meets yearly in April and is in session for 
four months. The Senate consists of 39 members, 
each chosen for six years, and both senators and 
deputies are indefinitely eligible for re-election. 

The laws and forms of legal procedure are es- 
sentially French, and under Haitien laws no for- 
eigners may own real estate or engage in retail 
trade unless they become citizens of the republic. 
All persons who engage in business or who prac- 
tise a profession must secure a license, and the 
fees charged to foreigners are twice that charged 
to Haitiens. It is easy to see that these restric- 
tions are a tremendous drawback, for while the 
constitution provides for the naturalisation of for- 
eigners, — at least theoretically, — a person must 
indeed be hard pressed to become a Haitien sub- 
ject, and a large number of Haitiens constantly 
establish residences abroad and become citizens of 



OtA -0 



353 SAN DOMINGO OF TO-DAY 

other nations rather than submit to the chaotic, 
unstable, and overbearing conditions of their own 
country. 

Wherever we find the African race we find gross 
superstition, and wherever the blacks are free from 
the restraint of the whites, or of advanced civi- 
lisation, the natural superstitions of the race find 
expression in witchcraft, idolatry, Obeah, or Voo- 
dooism. Even in the British West Indies a large 
proportion of the coloured population believe 
thoroughly in Obeah, and Voodooism is carried on 
with little attempt at concealment, although the 
more barbarous and savage rites are seldom in- 
dulged in. In Haiti, therefore, it is not surprising 
that Obeah and Voodooism should be practised 
almost universally and that in many of the out- 
lying districts they should be accompanied with 
all the orgies and debaucheries of interior Africa. 

Many people are ignorant of just what Voodoo- 
ism and Obeah are and are prone to consider them 
mere superstitious beliefs and mild forms of witch- 
craft. As a matter of fact, Obeah consists pri- 
marily and principally of sorcery and witchcraft 
and is not a religion. The Obeah men and women 
are supposed to possess supernatural powers, and 



\^^^ 



PEOPLE AND CUSTOMS S53 

through fear they have a strong hold on the people 
and their word is law to a certain extent. Their 
supposed powers are called into play on every oc- 
casion, and for a small sum they will undertake 
to put an enemy out of the way, induce the love 
of another, help in business matters, or perform 
all the services of our clairvoyants and second- 
sight mediums. It is unquestionable that many 
of the Obeah practitioners possess hypnotic and 
other powers and that some of the " stunts " they 
perform are beyond comprehension, but their main 
reliance is in their remarkable knowledge of vege- 
table poisons, with which they destroy their own 
enemies and the enemies of their clients. So subtle 
are some of the poisons employed by these people 
that their victims may live for years, dying slowly 
as from some wasting disease, or may go insane, 
deaf, blind, or dumb. All the actions of the Obeah 
men are surrounded with mysticism, weird incanta- 
tions, odd rites and fetishes, such as red rags, 
dried snakes and lizards, human bones or portions 
of human organs, glass bottles filled with miscel- 
laneous objects, etc. So firm is the belief of the 
negroes in the power of the Obeah that they often 
succumb to fear alone, and the author has person- 



354 SAN DOMINGO OF TO-DAY 

ally known of cases where strong men pined away 
and died, merely because of fear induced by the 
statement, that some one had "put Obeah " on 
them. In the practice of Obeah, murders are 
frequently committed and children are often kid- 
napped, killed, and their internal organs used as 
accessories in Obeah rites ; but cannibalism has no 
part in it and there is no religious significance nor 
any form of worship connected with pure Obeah. 
Voodooism, on the other hand, is a form of re- 
ligion, the deity being known as the " great green 
serpent," who is represented by a high priest 
known as " Papa Loi " and a priestess called 
" Maman Loi," and the commands of these two 
are absolute. Originally the chief sacrifice to the 
serpent deity was the " goat without horns," 
which was nothing more nor less than a child, and 
preferably a white child. The priest and priestess 
do not, however, always insist upon a human vic- 
tim, and as a rule the serpent deity may be pro- 
pitiated by sacrificing a goat, sheep, or even a 
cock. At other times a child is led to the place 
of worship and every rite carried out to the mo- 
ment of sacrifice, when a goat is substituted and 
killed. In any case, however, the ceremonies are 



PEOPLE AND CUSTOMS 355 

identical and are carried on with secrecy in some 
isolated part of the forest, where the victim is 
strung up by the feet and the throat cut, the 
blood being drunk warm by the worshippers and 
the flesh being distributed among them and eaten. 
Following the sacrifice there are weird dances, 
African songs, and the grossest and most re- 
pulsive orgies and forms of debauchery, many of 
which are far worse than those practised by the 
true African savages. 

It is not difficult for an outsider to see evidences 
of Obeah, and without going very far from the 
towns he might witness a Voodoo dance ; but unless 
thoroughly disguised, or a long resident among 
the natives, his life would pay the forfeit for his 
inquisitiveness if discovered, for no white man is 
knowingly allowed to look upon a Voodoo ceremony 
and live. 

Much has been said and written of Voodooism 
in Haiti and many travellers have affirmed that 
cannibalistic feasts still take place during the 
" devil dances " and worship of the " great green 
serpent," the deity of Voodoo. 

In reply to such statements many Haitiens have 
written articles and even books, endeavouring to 



356 SAN DOMINGO OF TO-DAY 

disparage such reflections on the civilisation of 
their country, notable among these being " Haiti, 
Her History and Her Detractors," by J. N. Leger, 
formerly the Haitien Minister to the United 
States. 

There is really little reason for such vigorous 
denials of the existence of Voodooism, or even of 
cannibalism, in Haiti, for the most superficial ob- 
server may easily ascertain that Voodoo dances 
and Obeah are indulged in even in the larger 
towns, and plenty of evidences may be obtained of 
occasional cases of cannibalism in the remote in- 
terior towns and villages. Why Haitiens should be 
so sensitive on these matters is something of a 
puzzle, for they are to be expected under the pres- 
ent conditions of the republic and are by no means 
as great a reflection upon the people and govern- 
ment, as a whole, as the acknowledged lack of 
sanitation, the filth, the retrogressiveness, and gen- 
erally rotten state of affairs in the country. It is 
a most difficult matter to stamp out savagery from 
isolated communities of blacks, and even Great 
Britain has not yet succeeded in accomplishing it in 
her West Indian colonies ; but there is no excuse in 
not stamping out other things which are far more 



PEOPLE AND CUSTOMS 357 

in evidence and are of far greater importance to 
the world at large. 

Although Haiti is so behind the rest of the 
world and so little can be said in praise of the 
government or the people, yet it must not be sup- 
posed that all Haitiens are barbarians or that all 
Haiti is a waste. On the contrary, many of the 
Haitiens, — even among the pure blacks, — are in- 
telligent, progressive, and broad-minded. 

Toussaint I'Overture was a brilliant man, — a 
bom leader and a wonderfully competent states- 
man and military genius ; Dumas the elder was a 
Haitien, born in Jeremie, and many more of 
Haiti's sons have distinguished themselves in arts, 
letters, and the sciences in Europe and America. 

Considering the conditions under which Haiti 
has suffered since her declaration of independence, 
it is surprising that the country has survived at 
all. As it is, vast areas of land are cultivated, 
the exports are large, the towns have maintained 
their commercial importance, an immense amount 
of money is in circulation, and the country as a 
whole is more thickly settled and more thoroughly 
cultivated in proportion to its size, than the more 
progressive and enlightened Dominican Republic. 



358 SAN DOMINGO OF TO-DAY 

On the other hand, the business is yearly falling 
off, the country is hopelessly in debt, the people 
are ground under heavy taxation and a despotic 
military rule, and one revolution follows another 
in such rapid succession that the country has no 
time to recover between times. 

Above and over all, however, is the fact that 
Haiti is " black," that there is no guiding hand of 
the Caucasian to lead the Haitiens on their way ; 
no firm, benign power to rule and protect them; 
no superior intellect to advise or direct. Instead 
there is the inborn lack of ambition, the happy-go- 
lucky character of the coloured race, and the utter 
disregard for comfort, convenience, or cleanliness 
which seem so vastly important to the white races. 



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